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MG TD TF 1500 - Broken rear shaft - Dave Clark - still active?

Last weekend the half shaft of the rear axle broke. I have a spare part of the pre owner but I want to use the improved parts of Dave,

I'd emailed Dave Clark at monday - no response untill today.

Is anyone in contact with him?

I read the articel of Guenther Kallis.


Is it really sufficient to pull the half shaft and the rest of the shaft? What's about fragments? Will I need special tools? What else can or must be done?
Bela


Bela, there's an axle listed on USA EBAY right now that I believe is Dave's product. # 121453657485

I got an email from him about 2 weeks ago that said he was leaving Arizona for his summer home in Washington and would not be converting any more 4.3 rears until his return in September. Sorry don't know how to make contact beyond his email.
Richard Cameron

Bela,
That ebay ad is from Dave Clark!
I have sent you a mail.

Regards
Declan
Declan Burns

Thank you for this helpful hint - just purchased.


Any further hints for tools and tricks?
Bela

"Any further hints"
Purchase two shafts and install them at the same time - that will guaranty that neither will break. Cheers - Dave
DW DuBois

I broke an axle a few years ago and put in two Dave Clark axles. Before I installed the new axles, I spent a lot of time running a magnet up and down the axle tube on the broken side and it is surprising how much shrapnel you pick up. Drain and replace your gear lube. In addition, I installed a magnetic plug. I did not use any special tools but you might find removing the bearings form the old axles and pressing them onto the new axles could require a press if you are unlucky. Good luck!
A. R. Todd

One important thing,, when you put the car on jack stands to do the repair, make sure that you have enough room on either side to withdraw the axle without hitting a wall or some other un moveable object!

Steve
Steve Wincze

I just installed Dave's axles in my TF. Researching the archives, someone suggested heating the bearings to 200 degrees for about 20 minutes. I did this (non sealed bearings) and they dropped right on. Don't forget the spacers also if you are using new bearings.

Rick
Rick

Found the reference

http://www2.mg-cars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&access=&mode=archiveth&subject=8&subjectar=8&thread=2009060901214317475
Rick

I installed new none sealed bearings on Daves new hardened axles in my newly upgraded rear for the TF. I am fortunate to have a press in my shop and the bearings went on with little effort without heating. My old bearings are in excellent shape, but with everything new, I didn't want to take any chances. My old axles look perfect also with no indication of twisting and nice splines. Marked right and left, their on the shelf.
Incidentally, Having Dave build me this new 4.1 rear was the best thing I could have done to improve this cars driving ability. He does immaculate work. PJ
Paul161

I second Dave's work. 4.3 for me and I couldn't be happier.
MAndrus

I couldn't agree more! Had Dave install his hardened axles in one of his 4.3 conversions and couldn't be happier. The TF 1250 should have come from the factory with a 4.3. Makes a world of difference..

John
John Mitchell

Dave sold me two half-shafts about five and a half years ago, after everyone and his brother recommended him! They were so right! Dave is a gentleman with whom to deal, very fair and helpful, and VERY reasonable! You will never regret doing business of any kind with Mr. Clark. Oh, he was leaving for Washington state the very day he shipped by half-shafts.
Jerry
Jerry Chandler 1951 TD

Thank you all for the hints.

Dave will ship until Wednesday and Tom will send the magnetic plug.
Bela

What other parts are recommended for instant replacement?
Bela

New seals might be in order, depending on whar the old ones look like
Rgds, Mike
Mike Fritsch

Thank you Mike - they are not expensive and I'll purchase new ones.

For my car #1824 new axles nuts are a must because the early TD has BSF and Dave's axles are UNF.

Bela

And - thinking of it - get a few shims to adapt the wheel nut to the slot for the cotter pin. I had to put in a shim to get anywhere close to the hole when the torque was about right.

Rgds, Mike
Mike Fritsch

And don't forget the torque is 150 ft/lbs (21m/Kg) or you will destroy your drum splines.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee raybar2(at) tiscalidotcodotuk

Thank you Mike - I will keep in mind.

@all

With the new axles from Dave comes an instruction sheet with advice for the torque. He can delivers nuts too.
e

Gee guys thanks for all the compliments !!

I've finally settled in here in wa and am somewhat sorted with the house and toys. I brought six pairs of half shafts with me and sold two (Bela and one to UK). The cost of shipping overseas is remarkably low when bought through eBay, around $50. I usually sell about four sets and had two sets here so I should have enough for the Summer.

I've opened another email account for the MG business and would appreciate any correspondence to be sent to:

daveclark4.3conversion@gmail.com

Picture is a view off our deck. The island in the distance (4 miles) is Canadian. We're the NW most US island. No that is not our boat :-)

Dave Clark Arizona

Dave wrote:

The cost of shipping overseas is remarkably low when bought through eBay, around $50.


That is what Dave sees. The worldwide shipping with ebay generates additional costs.

For all residents of Germany:

$30 for shipping
$100 for import charge

The delivery lasts 10 days.
e

OK, who is e ????
Steve Wincze

I guess "e" is an software error of this side. I'll try to fix it.

Bela
e

The axles arrived.

Both axles are a very very little tapered at the same point. I can feel it with my fingers and it is also visible. Is it a mark for something or is it a kind of stop?

Bela

Answered in an email to Bela:

Yes, they all have that. I've never asked the supplier about it but I believe it is because the bearing is a press fit and the hub is not. There has been no known breakage of these shafts including the vintage racers running a lot more horsepower than stock. I suppose over the last 20 years at least 2000 have been sold.

Dave
Dave Clark Arizona

Today I'd the chance to look at a shaft the pre owner give away with the car. The shaft is shorter and thicker - so I think it is not for this car. But it is machined the same way.

It must be a construction feature for such kind of axles.
Bela

While studying the manual it says a special tool must be used for withdrawing the half shaft.

Since now no one has mentioned - I guess it is obsolete or unnecessary?

But in absence of this tool for withdrawing the unbroken half-shaft - do you have some hints?

Bela

Just undo the nut until it is on 2 threads then slide the drum sharply in and out. This should gradually pull the bearing from the housing.
Note that there is a loose collar between the bearing and the shoulder on the shaft which must be changed over to the new shaft.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee raybar2(at) tiscalidotcodotuk

What would be the best timing to drain the oil in this process of removing the half shaft? The WSM gives no hints.
Bela

Oil should be drained first before you open anything. Safest way. If you need to clean up broken bits that you think were left, you can always fill it back in and let it flow through.

The special tool that is mentioned is a slidehammer (Gleithammer in German). It is a weight that slides on a steel rod against a nut. The rod is fastened to the part to be pulled out (here: the axle end) with a suitable adapter). Always useful if you need to pull something out that resists.
Using the loosened drum as a moving weight as Ray suggests should work if the shaft is not sitting too tight.
Rgds, Mike
Mike Fritsch

okay - I'll do. Next weekend we will try to make the job.

Please have a look at my new thread about unknown half shaft.
Bela

Yesterday the axles have been successfully pulled. Thanks to all supporter!

But great surprise today - the oil seals I got from my supplier have an diameter which is different from the old ones.

I've purchased MOSS 120-700. They are stamped "NAK SC 1.688 2.500 0.375 5". A picture at Brown & Gammons shows the same part.

The withdrawn oil seal is stamped as "U4 42 65".

What is wrong - the bearing housing or the new seal?

Is it an option that the pre owner had drilled out the seat for the seal?
Bela

The job is done.

I show a picture of the self made tool I've used to press the bearing on to the axle.

Two pieces of a 1 1/4 inch tubes and some big washers substitutes a special tool.

Next question I have is -

what can I do now to avoid a possible damage depending on some remaining fragments in the axle housing (I have the magnetic plug from Tom Lange and it seems, that only fragments below 1mm could be in the housing)?

What is a good mileage for the next oil drain?


Bela

Looks great, esp. the new center nut. Very different from mine which is getting round edges by now
Did you solve the puzzle of the oil seals ?
Rgds, Mike
Mike Fritsch

Hello Mike,

I guess the pre owner has drilled out the bearing housing. I can't imagine any reason except he couldn't get the oil seals in the sixties here in D.

First we had spilled petroleum into the axle housing and refilled with gear oil. After that we moved the car forward and backward in the yard in neutral and then we drained the oil. The oil has been without any fragments or visible abrasion.
A short drive after repair was fine and again the oil was clear. I'll drive some miles and then I'll drain again. Next week the car goes on the road - we will compete "Altmühltal Classic Sprint" - see http://classic-sprint.de/.
Bela

This thread was discussed between 06/05/2016 and 03/06/2016

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