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MG TD TF 1500 - captive nuts in TD rear box area

If you remove the plywood from the floor behind the seat, you can see that the metal frame has captive nut holders brazed or soldered to the metal. They are to give the bolts that hold down the plywood something to mount to. They are all square nuts.
Problem is, several deformed in removal (letting the square nuts spin), and none of them seem that trustworthy to me.
What should I replace them with? What have other people done?
Looking through McMasters, I find these: http://www.mcmaster.com/#clip-on-nuts/=ukvxbc
Should slide over the metal edge and allow for easier placement.
What do you think?

Geoffrey M Baker

Geoff , although not original they work fine . I used them on my restorations also.

Gerard
Gerard Hengeveld

One of our Dutch MG friends who makes TD metal parts, also manufactures those little cages for these square nuts.
The cages can easily be welded to the metal.
For the square nuts we used Metric M8 nuts and recutted the tread into BSF 3/8.
I amnot sure now if that is also the right size for those floor nuts (is is for the fenders).Huib
Huib Bruijstens

Those would work, search archives, this has been discussed many times over the years. BTW, I sure wish the search function worked as well as Google, better than nothing... George
George Butz

I did use what McMasters called the "square style" on my rear fender wells because they were already painted by the time I realized I needed them. I made new BSF square nuts however.

in your case, if the existing cages are salvageable I would remove the old nuts straighten the cage and insert new shop made nuts.

I did that on my front splash apron.

Dave Braun shows how to make cages and nuts on his site.

Jim B
JA Benjamin

I made both the nuts & cages & tapped the original 5/16" BSF thread. They were also used on the rear guards. (Important to leave some wiggle room to ensure an easy fit of the rear guards. Too tight & fitting becomes more difficult, too loose & the nut may turn in the cage.) The position of one of the nuts on the front of the side curtain box seemed to change when comparing an early 1951 to a late 1952 floor. I discovered this when using an original late floor as the template for my 1 Feb 1951 car. No real drama. I just repositioned the cage on the box. All in all making bespoke cages & square nuts is an easy & satisfying task Geoff. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

These are the ones I've used in the wood floor side curtain box area--- Re- thread tap to 1/4" 26 BSF. The 5/16" ones mentioned by others are for the fender bolts.

Richard Cameron

You're probably right Richard. The side curtain box may well be 1/4" BSF. Been about 3 years since I completed the floor. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Look at "easy align weld nuts" on the McMaster.com site.
Gene Gillam

I made my own, just like the illustration, then spot welded them in. PJ
Paul S Jennings

This thread was discussed between 13/11/2014 and 14/11/2014

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