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MG TD TF 1500 - Clutch pedal stop nut

I've been working on the clutch linkage and Dave Dubois kindly sent me his article on adding a clutch stop bolt. Seems like a very good idea. My TD 10042 must originally have come with the clutch cable, but someone added the rod at a later point. They did NOT include a clutch stop bolt.
Dave has supplied dimensions for making one (1/2 inch diameter, 1 1/4 long, with the last 1/2 in reduced to a 1/4 thread.
Has anybody just used a 1 1/4 long 1/4 diameter bolt with a half inch diameter, 3/4 inch bushing sleeve? Seems like an easier way to go and I can probably get the parts from Ace...?
Here's Dave's diagram

Geoffrey M Baker

Geoffry- The drawing and dimensions for the pedal stop bolt was provided from a couple of people in one of the California MG 'T' clubs. I just pilfered it and added the rest of the information as to how it came to be that the stop bolt is in all of the later TD, but not in the earlier ones. As for just using a plain 1/4" bolt, I would be concerned that it could be prone to bending over a bit. If you don't have the means to manufacture one, I think that I would just stack several nuts under the head of the bolt to give it a little more stability. Cheers - Dave
DW DuBois

I'm working on a slightly different version. The reason is I have so little clearance under the car to drill and then file out a slot in heavy metal seems pretty unappealing. So instead I made something up on a lathe: a right angle piece of steel with a slot in it. Now I can just drill one hole and install and adjust the stop. It has about an inch long slot so there is plenty of adjustment. I will use a 3/8 bolt, much heavier than the 1/4, and the angle piece is made of quarter inch steel cut from a square tube, so it also is plenty beefy. I'll try to take pictures of it installed.
The disadvantage in my method is to adjust the clutch you'll have to take off the side plate, but that's pretty easy since you are under the car and right there anyway.

Geoffrey M Baker

Geof,
I just put a bolt in with a couple of nuts. I guessed at the location knowing that if I was off I could make a threaded stop of an appropriate piece of rod and drill and tap the axis for this screw.
Mort

Mort 50 TD

As I said, rather than install a slot on the box (with only a few inches clearance, a real pain to do) I just drilled one hole and installed a slotted L bracket in the box for a stop. I have one last job; because the nut can turn inside the box if it ever gets loose, I'm going to replace it with a square piece of steel about 1" square and 1/4 thick, tapped for a 3/8 bolt. This way, it can't turn because one side of the square will butt up against the side. So it should not be able to get loose, and can be easily loosened just by loosening the bolt from the bottom.
Geoffrey M Baker

Here's the threaded plate that locks it and should mean that undoing it is a simple matter of unscrewing the bolt from the bottom.

Geoffrey M Baker

In rebuilding my rear springs, I had to replace the bolt that holds the leaves together. The "head" of the bolt is a cylinder, about 1/2" high so I took the old bolt, cut the threaded portion down to about 3/4" and rethreaded it. It's a perfect size and shape for the stop. I can upload a picture later if anyone wants to see it.
J Cosin

This thread was discussed between 05/12/2015 and 07/12/2015

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