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MG TD TF 1500 - Covering the glove box

I started on working to get the dash covered today. Decided to start with the glove box door (If I screwed it up, it was not much material).

I talked to Jim Silva on how the material went. He said each side goes to the center of the edge without overlapping. I used a compass set at 1/2 the edge thickness to draw the material using the door as a template.

The chrome trim was originally chrome plated brass. NTG (MGbits.com) has this at a reasonable price.
The only issue is it comes without holes.

I used the old trim as a pattern for holes and then drilled the holes for the size of the provided wood screws.

One issue is the holes have to be countersunk. When you countersink the material, you get a brass-looking hole. So you have to do just a little at a time to get the countersunk hole just exactly correct for the screw. Too much off and the brass shows around the screw. Too little and the screw sits up above the trim.

The trim comes flat, so you have to bend it around the door. I started by screwing one corner in. I used a towel on the workbench and with the trim between the door and the towel, I rolled the door over the trim. This worked well to form it to the door without getting any kinks.

Oh, one more point. Put in your countersunk flathead screw for the knob in prior to putting on the back material so the screw is not visible from the back.





Bruce Cunha

How did you handle the ball latch?

The door on the TD 1250 has a round head screw going through all of the material for the knob. I put the original material back on the inside of the door, black mark and all.




L E D LaVerne

Bruce, I assume the method you used to form the trim for the outside of the door was repeated twice so as to have a formed trim piece for the inside of the opening. (Less the outside rim counter sinking)

Regards, Tom

tm peterson

Great idea using re-using original material. Mine was too far gone. TD 10835 also had knob screw that shows, definitely original to my car. Both of you do beautiful work! George

George Butz III

All the dash knobs screws I have seen are round headed like what LED shows. And the washer was part of the screw.

Now we all know MG was famous for substituting parts so ...

BTW I assume that you know that the bottom trim strip used round headed screws instead of flat headed.
Christopher Couper

I traced the hole for the latch and cut it out for the size of the latch. Unsure if the lip of the latch was above or below the trim.

As for the screw. Good catch LaVern. I did find a factory brochure with a picture of the inside of the door and the screw does go outside.

I can make a small cut and take out the screw. With a washer on like yours, the incision will be hidden.


Bruce Cunha

I would not recommend countersinking the thin trim metal. This opens the hole and makes it easy for the screws to pull out.
I made a tool to FORM the metal into the proper shape.

Its just a scrap Aluminum block with a hole and countersink around it.
Then a rod with a center shaft and a turned taper.

You drill a pilot hole in the wood, countersink the wood, drill a hole in the trim and then form the trim to fit the countersink in the wood.

Also no brass is visible.

I used the same technique on the door sills.

Note.
My dash and sills are engine turned SS.


Jim B.



JA Benjamin

Interesting approach Jim. Does it indent the brass material or push it down so it sticks out the bottom?

I have my old ones, so I will give it a try on that.
Bruce Cunha

Yes the brass is pushed out the bottom.
It forms the top to match the tool.
Drill the hole a size smaller since the forming will open it a bit.
Make the nib on the rod to just clear the hole in the trim.
Countersink in the wood fits the dimple.
JA Benjamin

I made the jig and tried it today. Is the one in your picture the one you used for the dash trim? I had to put my hole close to the edge so the rounded edge does not set on the metal and get pushed down.

I did not see your post until I built the jig and tried it. I see now why the hole should be smaller to start.

This will work great. Thanks for this information.




Bruce Cunha

Jim: I guess the female wood part (countersink) is hard enough where the trim won't bow in? I would think that it would need to be made out of metal too so it would be more like a strike.
Christopher Couper

I was informed that the top trim was nailed on and the bottom trim used round head slotted screws.

Do you happen to have a picture of the head of the round screw?
Bruce Cunha

The trim entirely around the TD 1250 door and box opening were all screws. The trim around the top of the dash used nails and the bottom piece screws.




L E D LaVerne

https://www.mg-cars.org.uk/mgtd/mgtd_bolts.htm

Just scroll down to Dashboard and then select the little camera icon on the right to see a picture.
Christopher Couper

This thread was discussed between 03/02/2022 and 05/02/2022

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