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MG TD TF 1500 - Cowl to hood rubber, TD,TF

Hi all
I know there has been much discussion about this rubber piece over the years. Today, I installed this strip, as I move along on the TF resto. Like some of you recommended, I used a blade to shave off the "bead" part of the strip.
On the car, I don't like how it looks. I was careful, but still, the cut line is shakey.
Does anyone out there know of a source for the proper part. (I have moss 280-250)? I bought mine from moss last year and it is not as original. Looking at the rubber I removed (probably from the 1970 resto) it is nice and flat on that rearward aspect, like it was originally.
Does Doug Pelton or any European vender sell something that does not need to be cut with a blade??

Thanks
Tom
'54 TF
T Norby

Yep!. Just returned from a two day TF tech seminar here in Sydney organised by the M.G. Car Club (note the dots) & conducted by Ron Taylor. There were about 30 T Type owners in attendance & this was just one of the many items covered over the weekend. What you're looking for can be obtained through Spectrum Rubber & Panels here in OZ. Cost is AU$16.63/metre. If you buy a 25m roll cost comes down to AU$14:55/metre. Part number is 234.008. No cutting required. It is perfectly matched to the original. Maybe get together with a few friends & buy a roll & save a bit on shipping. Cheers Tom.
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Great tip Peter. I looked in their catalogue and by the picture, it looks pretty good!

I'll be getting some from them.
Frank Cronin

No worries.
P Hehir

Interestingly I had ordered a Moss roll and was going to install it but my 40 year old one seemed to be OK so I just unhooked it and pulled it away when I had to do some recent painting on the cowl. I just tack it back in place again (using the same brads) when I was done painting. I did not notice it was different than the 40 year old one and not correct.

Tom: Your comment about cutting the 'bead' away bothers me. You actually cut a slot for the hinge and leave the bead in place. Hopefully that's what you meant.

While for a TD these instructions might help you a bit up to the point of the side panels of course. It has some close ups on the rubber strip and the cutout for you to compare. If you click on a picture it zooms in.

http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/mgtd/mgtd_bonnet.htm
Chris Couper

Chris, I think you misunderstood my issue. I found a picture which I attached, showing how many T restorers have cut on this rubber part.
You post did give me the idea of considering using the 40 year old rubber. I'm going to pull the tackss out of it and look it over closely.

Does anyone know WHY the newer rubber is formed like it is? Is it advantageous in any way??

Tom

T Norby

I would be interested in splitting shipping costs if any other folks are interested in purchasing 234.008 from spectrum.
Rich (TD 3983) Taylor

Rich,
I might. I'll attempt to make my decision today. Drop me an email if you are planning to do it.

Thanks Tom
T Norby

Tom,
From what I can see in your image of the rubber the extrusion you have has almost a full circle with just a small v groove which you are then cutting so that it is more like the extrusion Peter has sourced.

I bought a length of extrusion from Brown and Gammons in the UK which seems to fit very well although I have only just sat it in place to check body fits. The flat section has a gentle taper for the first 5mm.

I just checked B&G's site and a piece long enough to do the bonnet is 11.25 pounds (about $20 to $25)

I cut a sliver off the end of mine to take an image, I hope it is still long enough.

There is another company in Australia that also has the same extrusion, Roverco also trading as Scotts auto supplies.



Max Irvine

Here is a photo of the original rubber from my TF.

Frank

Frank Cronin

I think the reason they have gone to the more V profile is because people were having trouble getting it to settle when it was square. You really have to push it up against the lip of the cowl to get it to seat properly.

Note that the step has to be as big as the jump between your wood filler and the top of the cowl. I am confused why you 'stepped' the slot for the bonnet bracket. The bracket sits on the wood and no rubber is supposed to cover it. That would mean you would have to pull the corners back to put in the screws.

Here is an original one (although its been painted). You can sort of see the profile at the crack.

Chris Couper

And here is an original TF strip at the bonnet bracket.

Note we have never seen pan top screws used here so we think this got altered by the owner at some point.


Chris Couper

Hi all
The photo I posted is not mine. I don't know who to attribute it to. Might have been from Dave Braun's site a few years ago. I've had it in my MG file for ages. I was certain Dave B had a few photos on this topic on his website. I even recall a pic of his bandaged finger, cut while trimming. But...for the life of me....I could not find those pics today. Dave, did you remove them?

I decided to re-use the old rubber. I cleaned it up and wiped it with a rubber product. It looks great and I like the way it fits. It has a profile like what Frank posted. Also, I am so tired of waiting and waiting for parts to come. Just could not bear to wait for a parcel from Australia via another MG owner in the states. I might regret my decision in the future.....probably not.

Thanks all
Tom
'54 TF
T Norby

Tom, I ordered the rubber bonnet rest strip from Brown & Gammons and it is the correct profile.
Rich (TD 3983) Taylor

Maybe this sketch might help some of the confusion.

Roy Challberg

A new strip from Brown and Gammons arrived this morning. Very prompt delivery and the strip is PERFECT - definitely no need to trim it back.


Jan T
J Targosz

Roy: Figure 3 is correct. I suspect the idea of the Moss figure 1 profile is that over time it could fit tighter. Sure when you first put it on it will ride higher and the bonnet would be under tension pushing it down but over time the rubber will settle and all would be OK. In the mean time the round lip would have a better chance of sealing because it was overly aggressive on the angle. Maybe they had complaints with a square profile the the edge did not sit down flat and dirt and dust got under the lip etc.

But I am just speculating here.
Chris Couper

This thread was discussed between 23/03/2014 and 05/04/2014

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