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MG TD TF 1500 - Curved washers on the TD rear floor panel?
When I was tearing up the rear floor, I saw that most of the screw holes just had countersinks for the countersunk 1/4 screws. But at least two had the same curved washers I mentioned in a previous post - curved to fit the countersunk head of the screw. These washers are about 7/8 in diameter. It occurs to me as I am rebuilding the floor as a single piece of ply, that if I use washers all around I can use bigger holes (3/8 instead of 1/4) and greatly simplify setup and installation. What have other people done here? |
Geoffrey M Baker |
If these are the same as the ones on the floorboards proper, then Moss has them somewhere. There was a post about a month ago the gave the part #. When I was doing mine I never found them so I made mine out of 304 SS. Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
323-828 |
Lew Palmer |
Thanks, Jim; I checked and sure enough, they are more or less the same (I had a few of the floorboard washers left over from Moss's kit) although of course like any modern replacement they are only half the weight of metal... |
Geoffrey M Baker |
Yes, I made mine out of solid 204 stock. It was a bit of work. Jim B. ![]() |
JA Benjamin |
Wow, Jim, did you gold plate them? They look pretty shiny :). Nice work! This is where I would like to have a CNC lathe! |
Geoffrey M Baker |
Should have read 304 stock Jim B |
JA Benjamin |
I'm sorry where do these washers go and how many are needed? I've never seen these in all my hardware that came with the car. Thanks Bill Jr TD4834 |
W. A. Chasser Jr |
Bill W They secure the Plywood floor boards to the inner rail along the drive shaft tunnel. The originals were pressed steel. Making them hollow would have been more work and reduced their strength so I chose to replicate only the outside which can be seen. Goeff No not plated, Just a nice finish off the old South Bend. In practice they are covered by the carpet so you never see them. Jim B. ![]() |
JA Benjamin |
Bill, it appears these washers are used to secure the floorboards on both sides, the rear of the driveshaft tunnel to the rear tiebar, and on my 1951 TD, at least two were used to secure the rear corners of the rear ply floor sections to the metal frame beneath. As far as we can tell, some of these were discontinued in later TDs (by 1952, they were using hex heads instead with no washers, to join the driveshaft tunnel to the rear tiebar). |
Geoffrey M Baker |
Geoffry,looks like I need to find some of these to protect the plywood. I looked at my originals and appeared there was some sort of washer used on them. Bill Chasser Jr TD4834 |
W. A. Chasser Jr |
Most of the inboard floorboard fasteners and the transmission housing to the scuttle use these as well. You will also find two of them on the rear deck. http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/mgtd/mgtd_carpet.htm The are not used where the flooboards are wood screwed into the body timber though. In that case the woodscrews are counter sunk into the plywood. |
Christopher Couper |
> > >In that case the woodscrews are counter sunk into the >plywood. > Chris; On my TD, early 52 I believe I have the original floor boards. I did not find the holes on the outside to be countersunk. There was evidence, however of finish or cup washers being under the wood screws. Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
I think the easiest/cheapest solution is just to use some flange countersunk washers from McMasters. #10 with an .25 ID are only $6/100. They are a bit smaller (OD just under 3/4 instead of 7/8 with the original washers) and you might want to drill them out just a hair to make installing 1/4 screws more easily... but you can't beat the price - and stainless steel to boot. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=upmyd1 |
Geoffrey M Baker |
Jim B: Correct. Sorry for the misstep. |
Christopher Couper |
I'd point out to anyone looking to source new washers that the Moss replacement washers are considerably different from the originals, which are heavier and have more of a "dish" on the flange. No real reason to spend the extra on the Moss washers, you won't get a real "repro" look anyway; they are light and cheap. Just use tinnerman washers or any countersunk flanged washer of similar size and save your money. Does anyone know if Abingdon or someone else is making a repro that looks the same as the original? |
Geoffrey M Baker |
This thread was discussed between 21/11/2014 and 23/11/2014
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