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MG TD TF 1500 - Disc brake conversion on TF

I'm setting up to do the disc brake conversion on the TF. While I think I have all the tools needed, I have a question on the size of the gear puller. I've see a number of 3 arm pullers in various sizes. Given the car has wire wheels, and I'll try removing the drum and hub as an assembly, what size puller would be recommended?

Alternatively...is there any other method/tool besides the gear puller to do that step?

Thanks,

Jim
Jim Rice

I have never used a puller on any of the TD/TF drums. I have had good luck using a block of wood on the drum flange and wacking the wood with a hammer. Your results may vary.
L E D LaVerne

cut a block of hardwood that will fit inside the splined hub and stick stick out a bit.Take off the nut and use the spinner to drag off the hub.
A bit of trial and error for the length.
I got this from the BBS years ago
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

cautionary note:
As a young TD owner(1960's), my just purchased, much abused TD required
brake shoe replacements. Armed with W E Blower's "The MG Workshop Manual" and a borrowed a heavy duty three legged drum puller, I set to work. Actually sat, with legs under the left front drum. Carefully set the puller, assuming based on reading the manual, that great force would be required to budge the drum. One blow with a hand sledge and the drum was resting painfully on my shins. The other three drums were removed by manual tugs.
Still have the TD!
R W Hinton

Lots of pictures please Jim, is this the NTG kit?

Thanks,

Peter
P G Gilvarry

Thanks all:

I'll try the tug method...and then progress with other methods if needed. Hopefully they come off with not much effort. Peter...it is an NTG kit. So I will take pictures as I go. The instructions are pretty general...more detail would have been better. One note....if anyone does buy a kit (mine was through Abingdon)...please stress the need to package better. I was pretty disappointed with some damage to the hubs. The kit weighs 60 pounds and the poor packaging busted up the flimsy cardboard for the discs and calipers. That in turn allowed metal to metal contact. I think the threads on the hub can be smoothed out (where the knock-off initially threads on the hub).

Jim
Jim Rice

Jim. Did you notify AS? If the kit is damaged it should be returned. The delivery service should have also been notified. That’s why shipments are insured.
W A Chasser

Have not contacted AS as yet. I opened the package to inspect/inventory the kit just the other night. The rest of the kit is OK....the hubs took the beating on the threaded lips and more dings and gouges on the lower mounting flange area where they mate with the discs.

Another nit-noid...no torque specs for the bolts were provided with the kit. I'll reach out to NTG and ask. While the smaller 5/16 shaft diameter bolts (mounting plate to backing plate, and hub to disc) come with a lock-washer and nut, the larger 3/8" shaft diameter bolts that mount the caliper to the backing plate adaptor screw directly into the threaded holes on the adaptor plate...which is aluminum. Need to be careful not to over-torque those.

Overall the kit components seem well made. It's unfortunate the re-packaging of the kit prior to shipment to me was REALLY subpar.






Jim Rice

I think this is the correct puller you need. If you still need it let me know. There is one for left hand and one for right. It will work on the early fine thread or the later corse threads.

Gary

gl krukoski

Could a puller be made from a pair of old spinners?

Drill a hole, weld a nut inside, install a bolt from the outside and tighten the bolt to push on the end of the axle.

You would need one for each side.

Just a thought.

Peter
P G Gilvarry

Thanks Gary:

Not sure when I'll start the project. Have a number of other items I also plan to do while the car is up on jacks. Can you advise your contact info? We can coordinate shipping once I figure out when I'll actually start. My e-mail address is: bmd29te@yahoo.com

Thank you,

Jim
Jim Rice

Question for the forum.....

I received the bolt torque specs from NTG. The one I question was the 45 ft.lbs. (dry) for the 3/8" shank diameter steel bolts that mount the calipers to the adaptor. If the bolt was being threaded into another steel component I wouldn't give it a second thought. However, the threaded adaptor plate is aluminum. Anyone with experience or metallurgy know if the recommended ft.lbs. are OK? No idea what the aluminum grade is. Likely aircraft grade (2024 T-3, 6061 T-6, or 7075-T6). Looking at the MGB bolt torque value chart for the same bolts that thread into a steel spindle, it seems NTG is referencing an industry standard steel bolt torque value. Not sure that would apply in this case. I guess alternatively I could run the bolts down till they bottom, then give them a quarter turn, bend-over the locking tabs and call it a day.

FYI...bolt measures 20 TPI

Would welcome thoughts/suggestions/recommendations.

Thanks, Jim


Jim Rice

Update: Ran into an unexpected problem. When trying to mount the hub to the rotor, the bolts wont fit through the hub! The threaded portion of the bolt does...but the shank does not. I've reversed the bolt installation as there is plenty of hole clearance on the rotor for the bolt shank. As you can see on the left ...it's not as pretty with the protruding bolt end/nut/lock washer. I suppose if you had a drill press and the right size bit, you could bore the holes in the hub large enough for the bolts to fully pass through as intended. I also did a fit check with the wire wheel, and there is plenty of clearance. I've reached out to NTG to notify, and if the reverse installation would be OK. Not sure if there is a hub or bolt manufacturing issue, but for anyone planning to do the NTG conversion, be aware you might run into this.

Jim


Jim Rice

Jim
Right or wrong-?---I've got mine like in your pic with the nut to the outside, but you need to check on the inside where the head of the bolt sits, if the rotor has a chamfer on the hole it's ok but if it's just a straight drilled hole you might need a flat washer under the head of the bolts so that the rounded shank under the head of the bolt doesn't bind on the end of the hole causing the bolthead not to seat properly--I figured that with the nut on the outside it makes it easy to check for tightness when the wheel is off as well

willy
William Revit

Hi Willy:

Interesting consideration. I would not have thought about a chamfer or non-chamfered hole. That said, I re-drilled/chased the hole with the proper size bit and the bolts now fit as intended with the bolt head on the outside flat against the head. I think it may have been a plating issue. The hubs appear to have a thin plating material on them. I'm surmising that some of that was also in the holes, and perhaps a final machining process to remove excess plating was missed? I had noted the roughness in the holes when inserting the threaded portion of the bolts, and then completely unable to get the shank portion to go in. I did add some blue loctite to the threads just in case. Not sure that's really needed since there is a lock washer and the bolts are torqued to 35 ft. lbs. As reference, when I removed the backing plates those also had lock washers. Those bolts have been undisturbed since originally assembled at the factory. They were still tight as a drum. Next step is installing the hub/drum assy on the axle. Did you need to use any of the shims? If so, the shim plates or the shim washers? It's kind of a crap-shoot right now. I don't know if there is anyway to determine rotor/caliper clearance and potential shim use in advance, or if it's going to be a trial and error exercise.

Jim
Jim Rice

A few more step to go and I'll be back on the road soon! Thanks to all for feedback to all the question's I've posted/posed over the last several months.




Jim Rice

This thread was discussed between 25/03/2022 and 09/05/2022

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