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MG TD TF 1500 - Door panels Piping?

Looking at the photos of the near perfect TF that Frank took pictures of, I can't get a photo of the top and back, (hinge area),of the door to see if piping goes on before the panel. If piping goes on, is it the smaller or regular piping? One photo shows how it ends at the latch and that the latch is set on top of the Hidem, but does it go all way around the door or if it doesn't, where does it end? Bail me out again guys! Thanks. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Paul,

I thought I sent these to you the other day via a PM. If not here they are again. If these don't do it let me know. This portion of my car's interior is in its original state and I can take some additional pics if you'd like.



Dan Nordstrom

Dan, I have that piping in place, thank you. I need to know if the door panel gets piping behind it also. PJ
Paul S Jennings

And another

Dan Nordstrom

Here is the piping I'm speaking of. It ends at the latch, but where does it go over the top and where does it end. Also it appears to be the same size as the fender piping, is it? PJ

Franks photo.



Paul S Jennings

It appears these doors are in their original state, but who knows for sure. Both doors have their piping stop short of making the corner down around the hinges. It only runs across the top.

It may be my imagination, but it seems a little large than the rest. Mmmm?

Dan Nordstrom

Well that isn't the hinge area. ??? Looks like the latch area. :) Either way I will fetch a few for you shortly.
Dan Nordstrom

Thanks Dan, that explains it, much appreciated. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Lets try these..

Mine appear to have piping beginning at the top of the latch and continue up and over the top terminating at the corner where it turns down to the hinge. See previous photo.


Hope that makes sense.

Dan Nordstrom

And one more

Dan Nordstrom

Great! That's just what I needed. Thanks Dan for posting those pictures, they are a big help. I don't remember how many American cars I've restored, but this thing is one heck of a learning experience! 1930s technology in a 1955 car. Will wonders never cease! Thanks Dan. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Totally agree Paul. My first and most likely the last British car. Besides lacking the knowledge I seem to run short on tools every time I start something new. And I thought Studebakers where difficult. They are a piece of cake.

Dan Nordstrom

Funny you said that, as the wife said to me not to long ago, why didn't you restore a Mustang or a 32 Chevy, something you know about! LOL. I had a beautiful 32 Chevy 6 wheel coupe with a rumble seat. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Paul and Dan,
Paul, I'm very close to where you are in finishing the TF interior. I finished test fitting TF latches and striker plates this weekend.

Dan, from your photos, it looks like the hidem on the panel and the welt trim both go under the latch, some plastic bead material is removed to flatten out the material, then both (hidem and welt) are cut off straight (no folding of flattened material under the panel)at the actual latch area (see the second to the last photo above).

Is that correct?

thanks,
Tyler
Tyler Irwin

Tyler,

If I am understanding your question correctly, the piping is square cut as seen in the pic. The cord is not showing in the pic but it feels as if it's there. It may have pulled back some with time, but I think its right there.
To clarify though. There is no piping on the bottom portion of the panel beginning at the latch. Only the upper (top) portion of the door.

Hope that works for you.

Dan
Dan Nordstrom

Here's one shot of the let door. The marks on the bottom rear are reflections from the running board strips. Even compound dust underneath. Hard to realize just how dirty the car is until you take a couple photos. Grin. PJ


Paul S Jennings

A pic of my factory upholstery.
(Ignore the rubber seal).

M Magilton

And the other side. Some of the screws have been replaced.

Matthew.

M Magilton

Matthew,
Thanks, it appears the piping and hidem disappear under the body of the latch and do not reappear in the area where the striker engages the latch.

Paul,
Did you install the kick panel/under-door strip & piping before installing the door panel?

thanks,
Tyler
Tyler Irwin

Matthew, thanks for those pictures, much appreciated. I put the hidem under the latch also.

Tyler, no I didn't, as I can't install the front kick panels to mate up until I get the windshield done and mounted. A couple of windshield bolts are behind that panel. I'm waiting on all new screws and bolts to put it together. Might need new glass also.
Paul S Jennings

Correction, Tyler I did install the piping, not the panels.
Paul S Jennings

Paul,
The windscreen requires installation prior to the kick panel being installed? So, the kick panel has to get pulled off if the windscreen ever has to come off? What a pain! I need to take a closer look at that.

Thanks to you and Matt for the photos and info. You both have made the door panel installation much more clear.

I think I'll install the door panels prior to the kick panels (waiting on windscreen frame upper corner brackets to be rechromed), unless I hear different from anyone.

Please see my new post about bending the TF kick panels.

thanks,
Tyler
Tyler Irwin

Paul call me at 248 421 0533 and I will get pix of what you want and send to you
colin stafford

Tyler,
Leave out the bottom (hidden) screw that fastens the side support to the frame on one side. This means if you have to remove the screen you only have to remove the visible screws on that side. You can then undo the wing nut and dome nut on the other side and slide out the assembly. I did this many years ago after having two screens damaged. Contrary to the doommongers my side supports did not bend under wind pressure and I can now change a glass quickly.
In fact my laminated screen is fogging round the edges so that's another job to do.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

This thread was discussed between 01/03/2015 and 06/03/2015

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