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MG TD TF 1500 - Driveshaft Stuck

Simple job right? Removed all 8 bolts holding the driveshaft front and rear. The front came off the transmission end easily enough. The rear is stuck. Tried tapping on it with a hammer. Afraid to hit it with any force though. Wouldn't want to create a bigger problem than I already have.

Any ideas.

Thanks

Stuart
S Grimm

It's fully released with the 8 bolts, it's just stuck (you did mark the joints for re-assembly alignment, didn't you?).

I use a dead-blow hammer so as not to mar the driveshaft; I often have to resort to lightly hammering a knife or a thick putty knife into the joint to separate them. Once it moves, it comes apart easily.

It REALLY pays to have the driveshaft balanced; there are driveshaft shops all over the states. They will check the u-jolints as well; I always look for the older kind with a grease nipple. It's surprising how much background-noise-you-never-knew-was-there goes away once that has been done.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Thanks Tom

I figured it was just stuck. Probably has a tenon like the one on the front and is stuck on that. I like the dead blow idea as well as the putty knife.

Was thinking of getting it balanced. Probably doesn't cost that much.

The whole reason it has to come off is the aft grease nipple has broken off. I thought putting it on the bench would make life easier. Didn't think I would be making myself so much work! The life of a LBC owner I guess.

Oh, and I did mark the front and rear flanges with an awl.

Thanks

Stuart
S Grimm

You can probably get an easy-out in the nipple stub, and replace it with another, long nipple. Worth it!

Best, Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Tom

Did manage to get the shaft off.

Got the broken nipple out. Easiest thing I've done in a while. The easy out just unscrewed it. The one I have to replace it is too long. It hits the Yoke. I'll have to find a shorter one.



Thanks

Stuart
S Grimm

Tom: Did the factory not score both sides of the flanges so you knew where to replace it, or did some thoughtful unknown repair guy do that on my car eons ago? I have two little marks that span both flanges.
Christopher Couper

Good question Chris. Where does that leave those of us who've done the 4.3 conversion - as this means replacing the rear flange with one from an MGA? Is the only option then to take the car to a shop and have it balanced? Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter, not sure why the rear flange would need changing, as Dave Clark rebuilt my TF rear with 4.1 gears out of a MGA 1600 and my drive shaft bolted right up. PJ
PJ Jennings

P.J the drive shaft isn't altered but as the flange on the diff is, I wondered if this would impact on the balance of the whole set up? If the shaft is marked at each end, then with the new flange, the marks at the diff end (if they exist?) would then no longer be relevant and the balance may be affected. Hence my query.

The Virgin Rear End Conversion article lists the MGA flange as one of the necessary parts for the conversion. Also in Carl Cedarstrand's article 'Ring and Pinion Interchanges for the TD/TF', the following text appears:

"The fitting of the MGA gear set will require the use of the MGA 20 pinion flange (ATB 7059) and preload spacer (18 7240). The MGA shaft has eleven splines instead of the six of the TD/TF. It is also a little larger in diameter at the pinion end than the TD/TF shaft."

I was able to buy a used MGA flange here for about $60 and it was supplied with all of the other necessary MGA parts to Craft Differential here in Sydney for the 4.3 conversion. I wasn't aware of any marks on the drive shaft at either end when I cleaned it up for painting. It is still to be refitted so I'll examine it more closely. I'm working inside the tub installing the interior trim at present and this makes access easier, with the car up on jack stands. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir


Tom is just following the guidance in the Workshop Manual. As with most mechanical guidance, common practices for various reasons is to replace most things in the same relative position as removed.

However, common sense in the case of the propeller shaft would made us wonder if the MG factory really did balance the transmission and rear axel flange as a matched set to the propeller shaft. I highly doubt it. So I believe marking the flanges on a possibly replaced rear axel and/or transmission serves no useful purpose as related to balance. Certainly though, balancing a properly aligned propeller shaft with good U joints has strong benefit.


Richard Cameron

This thread was discussed between 25/04/2019 and 29/04/2019

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