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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Dynamator Pos. Earth

Looking for a Dynamator positive earth for my 55 TF, no one seems to have one, must be positive earth with tach drive. PJ
PJ Jennings

I have just bought one from the MG Octagon Car Club £145 UK, you have to be a member though.
I found that headlamps, wipers and heater were more than the dyno could cope with in stop start driving.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

Paul, have you checked with Abingdon Spares? Bud
Bud Krueger

Bud, Yes I checked and their out of stock. I could get one for negative ground, but I don't want to buy a new fuel pump, as mine is for positive ground electronic. I'll check back with Abingdon Spares and see if they know when they will be getting new ones in. Thanks, PJ
PJ Jennings

Just ordered a Dynamator for the TF from Watford Classics in the UK. They have linked with eBay here so no conversion of monies necessary. Item, shipping, and tax come to $209.93. Supposedly delivered by 3/26. Not bad! PJ
PJ Jennings

That's a great price! Bud
Bud Krueger

Just got a different delivery date on the unit, first, they said by the 26th, now they said by the 29th to 31st. I thought the 26th delivery was a little too fast, the 31st makes more sense. PJ
PJ Jennings

Kind of hard to believe but, DHL just delivered it earlier than expected! Packaged well but, DHL repackaged it with more internal packing, I guess it didn't meet their standards, perfect!




PJ Jennings

PJ, don't forget the relay. I'd suggest Mort as a reference. Bud
Bud Krueger

PJ,
That is the same unit I installed a few years ago. I also have a positive ground on my TD. I had to modify the wiring a little bit as I remember. It has been functioning fine. I gutted the regulator and use it as a terminal strip. There may be more details in the archives in some posts from when my memory was fresher.
Mort

Mort Resnicoff

Bud, they included a relay and instructions to install with the unit, quite nice. Now I need to get a de funk control box to modify so everything looks as original. I have two good control boxes but don't want to destroy either one of them. PJ
PJ Jennings

A control box is in the mail to me for conversion. Things are moving along. PJ
PJ Jennings

Seems to be a little confusion of which unit to order on the net. The number for the MGT series with tach drive is C39/40TP. The P might mean positive ground, not sure. They can be had in Positive or Negative ground, just specify. PJ
PJ Jennings

PJ, remember that Mort has an older TD with a 9-terminal Control Box. A 5 pin box is more appropriate for your setup. Bud
Bud Krueger

You can buy dummy control boxes from Holden Vintage and Classic.
www.holden.co.uk
B W Wood

PJ, remember that Mort has an older TD with a 9-terminal Control Box. A 5 pin box is more appropriate for your setup. Bud
Thanks, Bud, will do, actually, I have one 5 pin box coming Monday or Tuesday. PJ



PJ Jennings

Here's a couple of pics of the control box I'm converting so the wiring looks like the original setup after it's mounted. Soldered spade lugs on the bottom of the grub screw mounts and installed a relay for the dash ignition light, which is needed for a positive earth system. I have to install a 40amp fuse, it's ordered, but isn't here yet, more to come later. PJ




PJ Jennings

Very clever place to put the relay, PJ. Bud
Bud Krueger

Since my tach gearbox is the original the threaded collar has been damaged over the years, will only screw on the dynamater halfway, so I'm on hold until a new replacement comes from Moss. PJ
PJ Jennings

Well, I did a dumb thing on wiring the relay! I wired the relay between the Dynamator and the ignition switch rather than between the ignition switch and the light and the light stays on when running. Nothing major, just misread the instructions. The instructions are very clear on this! The old brain gets a little testy at times, time for a cool one and gather my thoughts! lol. PJ
PJ Jennings

The big question, what was the ammeter doing on the idle?

Peter
P G Gilvarry

Peter, it was in the center, leaning slightly toward discharge, mabey half the needle width. That's at 800 RPM, just touch the throttle and the needle jumps up. Now my battery is not a good test, as it's fully charged. Oh, I didn't mention that was with all the lights on! I'm very happy with it! PJ
PJ Jennings

Being only a slight discharge at idle with the lights on is a good test.

I am going to do this, one day. Already have the dummy regulator makings, just have to figure where the fuse goes, will take the warning light vis the old F connection I guess.

Peter
P G Gilvarry

Peter, you want the fuse to protect the Dynamator, so you want it to be in series with the D terminal. See http://www.ttalk.info/Dynamator-for-Lazarus.html. It goes between the D and the A/A1 terminals. See the wiring diagram at the bottom of the page. Bud
Bud Krueger

I don't see how one can cleanly connect a gutted 5 terminal control box with a positive ground Dynamator. The relay that is necessary to initiate the charging requires a direct connection to the ignition circuit, e.g., on fuse A3. That link isn't connected through any of the terminals on a 5 terminal control box. Either the A or A1 terminal is extraneous and could be used as a link to A3. I'm curious how they do it. Bud
Bud Krueger

Thanks Bud, printed that out.

I see the other brand can also supply a pulley of the correct size.

Might start working on gutting the regulator and securing the bits.

Peter
P G Gilvarry

Before you do anything, make sure the tach drive coupling will screw all the way on! I put all this together only to find the tach drive coupling will only screw on about 25%. Check my other post. PJ
PJ Jennings

This thread was discussed between 15/03/2021 and 14/04/2021

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