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MG TD TF 1500 - engine front crank seal

I have a significant leak at the front crankshaft seal on a 1250 engine. It only leaks at higher RPM/ higher pressure. I hope I can just remove the pulley and nut and replace the seal. Does anyone know if that is possible. Before I do the research on my own.
BEW Brett Wright

Hmm. I wonder if it's not more the issue of the pressure than the seal? How is your crankcase venting set up?
Kevin McLemore

The crankcase venting is original the valve cover is not but it is a fancy cast aluminum deal with a built in vented fill cap like you might remember from the 60's (looks effective)

I see Moss sells a modern lip seal to replace the 2 original impregnated rope seals. Any body have experience with that.
BEW Brett Wright

Lots of people have replaced the front seal with a modern lip seal, Search the archives for more info. It can be a little tricky to get right but effective when done correctly.

BTW, the impregnated rope seal is still available. Chevy 350 engines used them. The last rope seal I used was exactly that, obtained from the local NAPA store.
Lew Palmer

Brett,

You can remove the pulley but you'll have to drop your pan and remove the timing gear cover to replace the rope seal. It fits in a groove.

Gene
Gene Gillam

Brett,
I have done this conversion a few times. I use the double lip Volvo cam seal. Most autoparts stores seam to stock the part. It is glued to the sump and timing cover with RTV. It looks the part, and stops the oil leak at the front. No more leaks!
David
D. Sander

I have used the improved seal from a '88 volvo cam seal, on many engines.
gates pn ks 13945.national # 1172, fel pro tcs45725. it fits better
than a moss seal, & has a double lip seal, not a single lip seal. No
machine work required
Len Fanelli
laf48@aol.com
914 420 8699
Len Fanelli

I use the Moss seal. Hasn't leaked a drop in 20,000 miles. Just make sure you get it as straight as possible and use sealant around the edges.
Steve Simmons

New seal works great and fits as if it was original for the T. In one of the "rebuilding the xpag engine" video's it is recommended to put a small groove in the bottom lip so that any oil that it allows oil to drain back from the lip.
Bruce Cunha

Nothing wrong with the rope seals if installed correctly. I have 250,000 miles on my Chevy 350 and the seal still doesn't leak. I put a new style lip seal on the rear crank in my Ford tractor and it leaked like a sieve, threw it in the trash, installed a new rope seal and it hasn't leaked in 5 years. Sometimes old technology isn't so bad. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Sorry but I got distracted for a few days, Since the cast valve cover only vents atmospherically, I wonder if the positive venting of an original valve cover to more or less a vacuum at the air cleaner might solve the problem. It doesn't leak at all until about 3500 rpm. It is obviously crankcase pressure related but the engine is quite sound and not warn out and breathing hard. I should rig that up and try it.
It probably needs a new seal since it appears to be a common problem though from the responses from everyone.
BEW Brett Wright

This thread was discussed between 23/09/2014 and 25/09/2014

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