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MG TD TF 1500 - Engine mount replacement

I want to change the front engine mount on my '53 TD. The one posting I can find in the archives says to just jack up the engine a bit and remove/replace the mount. Aside from the hassel of getting the nuts back on, it seems as if it is easy enough to do. Sure seems to me though, as if the stabilizer assembly along with the radiator hoses should come off to allow the engine to be raised up enough to make the changes. Is there really enough play in the various parts to change the mount without stressing or breaking anything?

Mark
Mark Strang

Mark..good point. The upper radiator hose needs to come off. If not it puts pressure on the upper tank which can cause the tank to separate from the core...don't ask me how I know. Regards, Tom
tm peterson

Mark, if you check out the pic below from my TD collection, you'll quickly confirm that the radiator hoses should definitely be removed, along with the stabilizer, as you suggest. I think it may also be prudent to loosen the exhaust pipe at the gearbox mount as well, although this will rise with the engine. Everything else should be flexible enough to enable you to lift the engine sufficiently to replace the mount. Cheers
Peter TD 5801

P Hehir

Thanks Guys. You confirmed my thoughts. I'll proceed accordingly. Makes it a bit more of a task but not a big job. Mark
Mark Strang

Alternatively you could avoid lifting the engine by taking out the engine front mounting bracket. Just remove the four bolts attaching it to the front plate.
Tim
Tim Wilkinson

Just looked at Daves picture pages, and I must agree with Tim,,, it's been quite a while since I've done it, but it seems like a lot less work to block up the engine, and remove the front plate, rather than draining the coolant and removing the hoses,,,,
SPW
STEVE WINCZE

Yeah, you might be right. I'll have to check it out in more detail. Hoses are no problem. The stabilizer might be a task though. Could be easier to do the mounting plate. Mark
Mark Strang

I replaced the front motor mount on my TF last month. I had the front fenders and bonnet off for painting, which made the job, of course, much easier. I removed all 4 nuts and raised the enging very slightly using a floor jack. It only took about a 1/2 inch to allow me to jimmy the rubber mount out. I did not alter the connections for hoses, stabilizer bar or exhaust.
There was enough play everywhere to allow it.
Refitting the nuts was a bear due to ackward postion and poor clearance, but got her done.

Tom
'54 TF
T Norby

As tom says, the TF can be done without draining. I did one about a month ago and it functioned just fine.

Alex
Alex Waugh

This thread was discussed between 02/04/2014 and 03/04/2014

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