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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - ENGINE REBUILD- TD 15169

I will be shortly replacing my gearbox with the Hi-Gear five speed one.
While I am at it I will check out the engine block thoroughly, boil it out, measure and replace what is necessary and do, as well, the rear end with a higher ratio.

My question is basically if the crankshaft has to be replaced who/where are the best prices/places to purchase it, or for that matter, anything else? Abingdon Spares, Moss, LBC or?
I'm basically only thinking of having the camshaft reground, push rods, tappet sets, matching the ports and new valves etc.,and anything else that is required that will give me a bit more power.

One more question.. should I put in the six vane water pump, and who sells them? And, who sells the release, roller bearing for the clutch?
I have had the Distributor, Carbs, Starter, (New Generator) rebuilt.
Any help would be very much appreciated.

Cheers...Barry
C B Ryley

Get the "Special Tuning Manual" by MG

This details how to get more power from an XPAG or XPEG engine

It was published by the factory

I have a XPEG (1500 cc) tuned to Stage 3, it measures 78 HP at 5000 RPM on the dyno, estimate 85 HP at 6000 RPM from the power curve.

Comp. ratio is 9,5 to 1, wIth a 4.1 rear end. It does 75 MPH at 4000 RPM
Standard H4's and no extractor exhaust

My suggestion, either do the 5 speed or the rear axle, not both as you will suffer from low power at 25-30 MPH.

My car has the same overall ratio in Hi gear as the 5 speed has in overdrive.

Don H.
Don Harmer

bARRY,
Check with Len Fanelli for his roller cam system,,,

http://www.ttalk.info/FanelliParts.htm

I'm sure he will post to your message,,

STEVE
British By The Sea Gathering
June 7th 2015
Steve Wincze

Do not use the roller clutch throw out bearing, use the carbon one soaked in engine oil for 24 hours.
A roller camshaft will give much more power with great performance from 2,200 RPM & no cam or lifter wear.
A roller cam will always outperform a flat lifter cam of the same duration.
Len Fanelli

Barry - my advice is to wait and see after you get it apart. You may well find that your crank will clean up nicely at .030 or so, which is just fine - although you can get larger bearings, I prefer not to go more than .040.

As for a cam, Len's is a good one. For my customers who do not want to spend the money, I have cams and lifters re-done by Delta Cam; they have an RV grind which adds some low-end power, and costs very little. Which valve springs you use will depend on your driving, 125# or 150#.

As for the water pump, John Seim does a great rebuild, and can put in a 6-vane impeller; I havn't needed one, and have had no overheating issues. He also does spin-off oil filter adapters, well worth the money.

I agree - don't use the roller bearing; they fail in our application very quickly.

And to toot my own horn, I sell brass core plugs, improved rod bolts, improved head studs, Roadster Gaskets for no leaks, and an amazing thermostat housing in Stainless Steel, life-time guarantee. See mgtrepair.net for more information.

I have a 5-speed (Skyhook) in a TD with a 4.3, and it runs along just fine - a 4.55 would also be good. I have a few 4.875 gearsets if that's something you want.

Ask questions!

Best, Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Barry,

The works built TD and early TF engines with cranks made of nodular iron. They were prone to breaking and the XPEGs were fitted with cast steel cranks.

A third crank is made by Phoenix of a forged billet in EN40B'T', then machined. Expect to pay at least $2,500 for one. Sadly that's the only new one easily available. There is a small foundry in Australia making an XPAG crank, but I know almost nothing about it.

I'm assuming you have an original crank. If you plan to take it out, get it crack-tested. If its not too seriously cracked, it cane be restored for considerably less that $2,500. If its cracked, a nodular iron crank can be welded then nitrided, probably in the $400 range. Here's a good, short video on how its done. http://www.powerblocktv.com/two-minute-tech/2min-187/how-to-repair-a-crankshaft

When reassembling the crank, take care to set it up properly using Plastigauge.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gordon A Clark

A "BIG THANKS TO EVERYBODY" for your responses.

Tom, Thanks for all the great info.I have ordered the S/S thermostat housing from you. Is it in yet?

So far today the head has been removed, there was some seepage on the head gasket between #2 and #3 cylinders.
Although the engine/head is banana shaped the head gasket had round holes.

There is a slight ridge at the top of the cylinders, the pistons are marked .o20,the tappets will have to be replaced.

Valves have not been removed (do not appear to be burnt) but are mushroomed on top.
I think I will have to replace some of the rockers, or in the worst case scenario replace all the rocker gear.I will have my machine shop check them and the head and block thoroughly.

Next week the interior of the TD will be removed, then the gearbox, engine and sump. I will keep my fingers crossed on the condition of the crank and then check out the one that Gordon mentioned, if their are any problems. I do know the ring gear has to be replaced.

I live in an area where quite a bit of my driving has very many curves and steep grades(on Hwy 101)with speeds ranging from 40 to 80 Kil's per hour. I have been considering a 4.55 but will try the TD with the 5.125 first with the Hi Gear gearbox.

While on a leg of my trip last July, I ran at 4100 RPM for about 3 hours...outside temp 28-30C, oil pressure 42 psi,water temp.70-75C, no problems with engine.

Cheers,,,Barry


C B Ryley

Barry were are you located in BC ? I live in Creston
you are always Welkom for coffee or beer Same count's for all the readers on this board.

Gerard.
Gerard Hengeveld

Gerard
I live in Burnaby, right next to Vancouver, B.C.

You have put me in an awkward position, as I go to Starbuck's every day (I should buy shares in it) to read and Google about the TD's. On the other hand, I love beer!
For you number guys on this BBS site. The number on my TD block is #24445 and on the head #22, BOLD RAISED CASTING, followed by a flattened out 952, or in full 22952? After a couple more cups of coffee I'll double check the head number.
Cheers...Barry
C B Ryley

Barry, I suspect that like me, and probably like a lot of us, your head is not original to your engine block. The head on my '53 TD (engine #25404) also has the casting numbers 22952. It's my understanding that the 22952 head is from an earlier XPAG block (round hole water passages vs. banana hole water passages but I forget which is which). It really doesn't matter because the the heads and blocks are interchangeable BUT you need to ensure that you select the correct head gasket. There are threads on this that will explain it better than I'm doing and you should check and rely on them and not on me but I think with a round hole block and a banana hole head you use a round hole gasket. Please check with an expert before ordering your replacement gasket set. Jud
J K Chapin

This thread was discussed between 31/10/2014 and 01/11/2014

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