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MG TD TF 1500 - Engine Seal Oil Leak

On rebuilt motor I installed a new front crankshaft seal from Moss and a Rear Oil Seal Conversion. However on the test run both seals started leaking after a few miles. Is there any solution for a leak free engine, or am I in fantasy land? Should I drop engine and try again?

Boris

B Gruzman

Hi Boris, unless you put a PCV system in I've never seen an XPAG engine that doesn't leak. It has been said that if it doesn't leak it's run out of oil.
Don TF 4887 'Figaro'
D J Walker

Also does "Stop Leak" works or total waste of money?

Boris Gruzman
B Gruzman

Don, do you mean Positive Crankcase Ventilation? And then how do I do that?
B Gruzman

I have align bored the main bearing bores to get .001" or less clearance & hand fitted the upper oil thrower & used the thinner Volvo cam type front seal & have NO OIL LEAKS with the OEM Archimedes screw system, front or rear.
Not magic just attention to detail.
Len Fanelli
XPAG roller camshafts, roller rocker arms.
Abingdon Performance
914 420 8699
Len Fanelli

Have to agree with Len. A line bore, and the new front seal along with attention to detail on the pan gasket can give a TD with very little leak. I would say that the only oil I see in mine is from the drip hole in the bell housing and that is a very infrequent drip.

I am not running the new rear seal.

I also only put gasket sealer on the pan. A light coat of oil on the engine side and I snug the pan bolts and then torque the bolts in a cross pattern.

One little trick I learned from watching a TD rebuild video is that when you install the new front seal, Put a minor V in the bottom of the pan lip that holds the seal in. This lets oil that can get under the seal a place to drain back into the pan.
Bruce Cunha

Boris, most of the PCV's I've seen are MGB. You need an input to the inlet manifold .
I'm sure people on this forum can help you more.
Regards, Don TF 4887 'Figaro'
D J Walker

Boris, I have seen many leak free xpag's. As Ken says..attention to detail is the key. Do not waste your money on "stop leak". Regards, tom
tm peterson

Boris

If you do decide to pull the engine, ensure you check the rear camshaft welsh plug is sound. This can be overlooked as the source of oil entering the bell housing.

From my limited experience the best advice I can offer is got to the trouble of building a rig that enables you to prove the engine is leak free prior to installing it in the chassis. The Moss rear seal kit is a pain to obtain a leak free result, there are alternatives however they require some machine shop work. Do an internet search and you will find considerable discussion on this subject.

Graeme
G Evans

Hi Boris,
I used to make rear seal kits for XPAG engines before the Moss ones were available. When properly fitted they did not leak at all. However, they were a fiddly thing to fit. Attention to detail and some thought as to where oil could seep through are very important. For example, on mine, sealant had to be applied between the block and the rear main bearing cap to stop oil getting through from the bearing to the outside world near the rear cork "loop-over". I have never seen a Moss seal but I guess the same might apply? Bob Schapel
R L Schapel

One thing to remember is if your block has been line bored you may have a problem with some seal replacement kits.
Some kits are aligned only by countersunk screws in the original holes for the aluminium seal. The new seal housing now stands proud by the amount machined which puts it above the main bearing cap face. If you relieve it you now have a gap which makes it seem that the seal has failed.
I have just helped a club member who had the new seal fitted by a "professional". The displacement in this case is small enough for the seal to cope with but getting a seal at the gap was a pig.
This wont happen with seal housings that are centred with a jig sleeve and set screws.
We tested the seal by pouring oil into the drain tube with the engine upside down, this is how we traced the problem in the first place.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

Thank you, any recommendation for source of the rear seal kit (other that Moss) and for the front seal. I was told that Volvo front seal works best, where will I purchase it.

Boris
B Gruzman

I agree with Bob S. the Moss rear seal does work but attention to detail and the instructions is imperative. I have had mine out and in three times for various other reasons and it has worked perfectly except when an "expert" did it and did not follow the instructions to the letter. As for the front seal the same applies . Totally clean ( I use brake cleaner ) surfaces,roughen the seal/ silicon contact area with 400 grit , new gaskets,silicon both sides at the seal interface, timing chain cover and sump gaskets and seal fitted at the same time !!! Place pulley while everything is still wet to centre it all Then don't touch it for 24hrs.Also consider silicon on the front smaller sump bolts.
Oh , and one more thing you need a speedy sleeve for front and back seals or forget it. It will never seal .
My engine does not leak….at all.
Now my transmission…thats another matter.
Take heart , it can be done!
Cheers, Keith

K. McKenzie

Keith, could you please send me part number and suppler for front sleeve. Thank you
Boris
B Gruzman

volvo cam seal.
gates pn ks 13945.national # 1172, fel pro tcs45725.
Len Fanelli

Here is the website .I got mine from the local bearing shop by measuring the O.D. of the crank pulley seal running surface . The speedy sleeve for the rear seal came from Moss and was ordered with the seal kit.

http://www.skf.com/group/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html

Hope that helps
K. McKenzie

This thread was discussed between 10/07/2014 and 13/07/2014

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