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MG TD TF 1500 - Engine Stabaliser
The end of my stabaliser that connects to the block has come adrift. I have managed to take it out - see photo. But can't see how it was attached. There are two metal brackets where I would have expected the connection point to be based on the WSM. But I can't see if these are broken ( don't look it) or has the bracket fallen off the block ( hard to see in there with the fanbelt and pullies etc... Anyone got a clear close up of the bracket on the block so I know what I am looking for / should expect ? :-) Dave ![]() |
Dave Moore |
You have a broken bracket that fits over the eater pump studs - the pieces in the middle between the two rubbers are the broken part. Moss 411-040, or find good used. Tom Lange MGT Repair |
t lange |
Thanks - just cant see the other parts. When you say fits over some studs... does that mean it was not bolted on and will have got lost when it broke ? PS. That was fast Tom... I was just going to add that I have a TF 1500 |
Dave Moore |
Dave your bracket is broken. There will be the remnants of this two bolt bracket on the block..up underneath the water pump. When you procure a replacement...or remove the two pieces still bolted on the block and weld to repair...how much pressure are you rigging into this little bracket? as you may know, and pardon me if you do..but if you don't, that "steady" is exactly what it is..some owners have used this little device to change the sitting position of their engine. Best of luck with the repair. Regards, Tom |
tom peterson |
Dave we have found the Moss replacements to fail exactly where yours has as we believe the bend is too sharp. We run a weld down the bend to create a thick radius at these points before we fit it. Problem solved. You could try to weld up the broken one but as the metal has fatigued it may fail again. |
Rod Brayshaw |
Dave, Not sure if you have the manual but it if not, hope this helps. When you get a new one (part 118 below) and I would suggest getting a new one. :) (Toms Moss part above) Adjust it with the car on level ground so that there is no pressure or tension on the link once you nip up the bolts/turn buckle to just touch the rubber grommets. This should give you a little movement back and forth to only take up any Engine vibration or torque motion. I will post the page that explains it better as well. If you know all this - sorry, just disregard. Rod ![]() |
R D Jones |
This is the WSM page that explains the Engine Stay adjustment.
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R D Jones |
Rod - your pic helps a lot. I get a sense of what the remainder of the part on the block should look like. I will try coming at it from below with the car on stands tomorrow. The stabaliser could have been under too much tension as it was installed by the PO - but I think it is unlikely as the rest of the work he did was top notch. Will have to ge a new one and reinforce as suggested earler :-) Dave |
Dave Moore |
Dave, IMHO, you will not be able to get to it from below,,, From the top is the best (only) way,,,, SPW |
STEVE WINCZE |
Ian - check the condition of the front engine mount, as it may have gone soft, and allow the motor to vibrate too much. It should be a solid rectangle of rubber. Tom Lange MGT Repair |
t lange |
I got it off. I am just not sure I will be able to get it back on :-) Seriously looks like the fan belt , fan off at least and perhaps the pully just to get access to replace the bracket. Ordered it today - the supplier said they would do a search to see of there was an alternative to the MOSS part... but did say it was unlikely as they probably did the tooling Does anyone have a close up of the bracket in situ ? I really can't see it with all the stuff in the way at the moment. Cheers Dave |
Dave Moore |
Spent today doing a few nice simple job ( new needles in the carbs, new manifold clamps) and fitting this damn bracket. Only the Moss part was available so I had some weld added in the stressed parts as suggested. I eventually managed to get it on without having to strip the belt, pully, fan etc. What a pain :-( Now tomorrow I have to put in the stabaliser bar which will be as much fun I guess. Here is a pick of the backet with the extra weld for reference for anyone in future. Dave ![]() |
Dave Moore |
And from the rear
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Dave Moore |
Put the bar in pieces might make it easier. But you will have to touch up the threads and nuts by hand with black paint afterwards if doing it painted. Remember its not supposed to have any stress on it. Its more like a shock absorber. |
Chris Couper |
Did it. Don't want to have to do that again :-) Dave |
Dave Moore |
This thread was discussed between 07/11/2013 and 24/11/2013
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