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MG TD TF 1500 - Engine Tools

Collecting some tools in preparation for pulling my engine for the first time.

Is there anything special I should know or are the standard tools below ok for our engines?

How is the engine bolted to the stand?
Do I need special bolts?

Use the valve cover studs with regular nuts and washers? (Not the plastic knobs).

Any better ideas most welcome.

Thanks,
Mort


Mort 50 TD


Mort;
you will need to hold the engine on the stand by the "weird" Mad Metric threads.
You will need some bolts that fit the stand but have 8X1mm threads.
I believe I still have them.
I will look tomorrow.
but my memory is going so ping me as a reminder.

I dont remember what I used to get the engine out of the frame. It was a long time ago.

Putting it back I would have used a come-along from the garage ceiling cross member with 4x4 supports and perhaps slings around the front and rear of the engine.

Picture is 30 years ago in Wisconsin.

Jim b.

JA Benjamin

Mort, you'll be attaching the cross arms of the stand to the bellhousing. You'll need to put a variety of spacers washers, etc., to clear the center piece of the mount. I'm sure that I have some images of thye engine on the stand. I'll post them, or send some to you. Bud
Bud Krueger

Here's a for-instance, Mort. A goal is to secure the bellhousing to the mount so that you can rotate the engine about the stand. This was during a removal for rebuilding. Bud

Bud Krueger

I welded up a stand out of some scrap I had along with heavy rollers

MG LaVerne

Not pretty but functional.

MG LaVerne

Here is the connector I made up..Flat plate steel 3/8" by 2" wide.... 1/2" U bolt... drilled for the valve cover studs... use the nuts and tighten it down form...don't allow the thing to flex and it works fine... with a cherry picker or whatever you want to hook it to. Made one up for the MGB also

MG LaVerne

Don't want tto make your own? This one came to me along with the TD. I gave it away to another local TD owner. Moss sells them.

MG LaVerne

Valve cover studs are fine. A brace between them is a good idea, as pictured above, to prevent the studs from bending if you lift at an extreme angle. The Moss piece works well but is pricey.

On the engine stand, use long 8x1 bolts and make sure they are strong. You can order them from McMaster, etc. I used grade 12.9 socket caps with 5mm thick steel washers to support the heads. The block will break before these bolts.

Steve Simmons

Steve, in his post above has the correct idea.
Attached is a picture of the bolt, I made 30 years ago.
They held my engine on the stand just fine. Might be overkill but I did not like the looks of 5/16 (8mm) bolts at the time.

Now in your other post you say you want to work on the rear main seal. Unfortunately the engine stand is not what you want.

It bolts to the rear of the engine where the bell housing would go. That is just where you want to work.

In your case I would suggest an engine lift and a stout work bench, or a stout bench on rollers. You might consider one of the roller stands that goes under a tool box or something like that.

I believe I have seen Ed on Wheeler Dealers use one for an engine sand.
You need access to the rear of the engine.


Jim B.


JA Benjamin

I bought a used shop crane, stand and leveller as well as a shop hoist. Once I'm done I'll sell them. If anyone is interested in the AZ/Tucson area let me know. Very handy to have but I don't have the room to keep them.
Geoffrey M Baker

This thread was discussed between 02/10/2015 and 03/10/2015

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