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MG TD TF 1500 - Fertan Rust Converter

I read about this stuff (liquid or gel) on a Volvo restoration site. Then got some info from the manufacturers in Germany. It sounds good, chemically converting a rusty surface to one that can be painted or treated with a wax undercoat, if it's under or inside a body member. So has anyone on this board had any experience with Fertan? And where did you get it? Thanks for any input. Peter
Peter Pope

I bought some stuff called Vactan on line. Looking at names I suspect it is the same as Fertan. It is advertised as being used on North Sea oil rigs. It is a pinkish liquid and when painted onto rusty metal it quickly turns the surface black. This is quite hard. It is an excellent product BUT if the rusty surface has scales these must be scraped or chipped off. The chemical only reacts with the surface and the scales could fall off at a later stage and leave the metal unprotected. Its action is similar to wire brushing very rusty metal where the surface of the rust is merely polished. What's needed is an angle grinder. I think Rustbuster sell a similar product. I haven't used it but their epoxy primer was excellent for the TF's bare shell. However, I bought 2.5 litres of acid, aluminium wheel cleaner for £5. Now this stuff is really excellent for cleaning rusty steel. It bites into the rust and leaves just shiny metal. I think it is a mixture of hydrochloric and phosphoric acids so be very careful!

Jan T
J Targosz

Jan: Right, The Fertan brochure emphasizes that all loose scale has to go first, before treatment. It's a big help to hear about similar products like Vactan, because Fertan is not an off-the-shelf thing. But we do have oil rigs here in Newfoundland... so I think I should follow up that angle & see what is used locally.
Peter Pope

I used a spray on product over some surface rust followed by Napa Stone Guard 5 years ago followed by base coat. Did under fenders and foot railings. It still looks like new after about 10k miles on it! Comes in a spray can. Clean the surface well before applying. If you need the product name let me know. I can dig it up.
Ed
efh Haskell

Gents,

Back in the 1970s I had the housing maintenance contract for Navy housing at Mayport Naval Station, FL. At the time the Navy was conducting tests on a rust converter called 'Extend'. Steel panels were set on the Atlantic beach for months at a time. The Extend coated panels showed little rust as the other panels disintegrated. Later Locktite purchased Extend which is available at most big-box home improvement stores. I have had good success with the product when used carefully.

Regards,

Jim Haskins 1953 TD
J. M. Haskins

Jim & Ed: Extend sounds like it could work well on a car -- I'll look for it. Ed: Yes I would like to know the name of the product you used... especially as you've had good results doing exactly what I'm up to with my TD. The trick for me is to find something I can use that is available here or at least not too much shipping. I need to check what's available locally... and what it's made of. Thanks both.
Peter
Peter Pope

I believe these rust converters are based on tannic acid. Any Chemists out there who can advise?


Jan T
J Targosz

I have a bottle of Fertan. It is good - but best for some uses.

It is a dark brown sweet smelling liquid. It is great for parts like box sections or hard undersides. Anything where you have rust, want to stop it, but not planning to paint just yet.

It doesn't dry hard and dry as some of the other rust converters. The tacky residue would have to be cleaned off if you want to paint.

The big advantage is you can paint it on and leave it. Bottle says it can protect for six months.

Think of those annoying little patches, scrapes, chips that you need to look after but want to wait until there are enough of them to make it worth your while getting the paint out... That is when I use it.

I have a Jag MK2 and often use it in on the underside where the residue cleaning matters less and I am using underseal.

I often use it on exposed nuts and bolts too. Again somewhere where you want protection but don't want to paint.

If I want a rust converter to use as a surface prep before paint I use the Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80. Great stuff.

Dave
D Moore

Thanks all, for the advice: I think I'll get a small bottle of several of these formulas and do some trials.
- Peter
Peter Pope

There are a lot of similar products that do this job, for the better or worse. I suspect that the concentration of the active product is what varies most between them. I did a test on one of them on a rejected rusty part that I covered entirely with the stuff, which turned it black all over. I then painted half of it only with primer and left it out in the weather. The primed side has stayed rust free for months whereas the unprimed side has rust spots all over it.
Dave H
Dave Hill

This thread was discussed between 20/11/2015 and 22/11/2015

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