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MG TD TF 1500 - Fitting the TD Bonnet
I have added a page on fitting the TD bonnet. http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/mgtd/mgtd_bonnet.htm If you have any other ideas or tips please post them and I will try to add them to the page. |
Chris Couper |
Chris , Thanks for the perfect explanation on your website. Maybe I have a helpful hint here. I usually remove the hood rods with a drift for about 2 inch I then take my battery operated drill clamp the protruding piece of the rod in the chuck and while operating the drill in reverse with a light pull the rod comes out with no hassle. Respectfully, Gerard |
Gerard Hengeveld |
Chris great step-by-step and beautiful car. I have an idea for the following instruction: "The woodscrews for the hinge supports should fit snuggly. If they were loose when you removed them, then you will need to drill out the holes and insert and glue in hardwood dowels, cut flush and re-drill the holes to the correct size for the woodscrews." The wood screws on my rear hinge are still tight but just barely. In anticipation of future removals of the hood I am contemplating drilling out the holes where the wood screws are currently and putting in brass inserts (see pic below) so that I can use machine screws and not have to worry about stripping out the wood screw hole. I'm thinking about using the same kind of inserts for attaching the hood rack (I think 10-24 ss flathead machine screws will work). Has anybody done this? Any thoughts? Thanks for your contributions. Jud ![]() |
J K Chapin |
I have used those in various places in our TD, including the rear bonnet hinge bracket and , believe it our not, for the LTDs around the body for the tonneau cover (just drilled through the wood frame, using the original holes in the sheet metal, then drilled from the inside for the inserts to be installed - of course I did all of this prior to installing the interior panels). Cheers - Dave |
David DuBois |
More thoughts on the knife edge inserts. When installing them in hardwood, drill the holes about 1 size larger than normal, then rub the threads well with paraffin wax. This is particularly important for the larger inserts like the 1/4 - 28 inserts. It also helps to pop for the purpose made insertion tools. Cheers - Dave |
David DuBois |
I find it helpful to put a screw in the insert with a nut to lock the thread and then twist the insert home. |
Dave Braun |
Thanks all. It seems to be a good though not original idea to use these inserts. Jud |
J K Chapin |
I used #10 machine screws and T-nuts from the start when drilling the new wood in the hinge area. Holes go completely thru the wood and the T-nuts are installed from under the dash. Constant stress in this location led me to believe that wood screws were less than reliable in the long term. Be sure to use flat head screws as oval heads will contact the underside of the bonnet panels and can lead to cracking of the panel or, at the least, paint chipping. Have used the method Gerard describes for removing the hinge pivot - works well. Chris; Thanks for all the work on your sites - a great asset to the T community. Dan |
Dan Craig |
Dan, I think the #10 machine screws and T-nuts is a great idea. I have a question in regards to the cowl rubber. Should the center location for the hinge support be cut all the way thru or just recessed out half-way through the rubber? |
Richard Taylor TD3983 |
T he one thing I did to make it easier to remove the bonnet by yourself. Attach ONE of the bottom brackets to the body and insert the top bracket on the chrome strip put the hood back on and nobody can see the mod. Now it is easy to remove the bonnet to service the eng. Caution It is a little heavy. Bill I also used the insert on my door latches as the screws were pulling loose over the years. |
Bill Mason |
Richard; I cut mine thru as Chris has it pictured on his site. Some folks have shaved the thickness of the seal and laid the hinge on top. I figured I would rather have the hinge on the wood for solidarity of the mount. Could add shims at this point if needed to raise the pivot point. Dan |
Dan Craig |
Bill Mason: I am not sure I understand your suggestion. I am a bit slow. The two (inner and outer) brackets have to be put in together as they tightly sandwich the hood strip in place and that's what keeps the hood from stressing the corners and also laying flat. If I missed the point perhaps a picture might help me. |
Chris Couper |
Chris I am not sure how to post pics yet but the bottom bracket holds the chrome strip and the upper chrome bracket in place. You can contact me off line if you wish . mgbill@sympatico.ca |
Bill Mason |
Bill, try this,,, Just below the box that you add your comment in, find and click on the word Upload (underlined) That will open another small window with a button called “Browse…” Click on that Browse button, and find the folder with the picture that you want to upload. Click on the picture, (JPG’s Only) then click on “Open” and the location will appear in the box next to “Browse” Click “Submit” and it should appear with your comments. You will get a message that says “Thank you, your file (FILE NAME.jpg) was successfully uploaded.” Close the window Then click “submit” to submit your mressage If you get a message that the file is too large, use one of the many “Image Resizer Sites’ available on the internet to make your file smaller. Hope this helps, SPW |
STEVE WINCZE |
This thread was discussed between 14/10/2013 and 21/10/2013
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