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MG TD TF 1500 - Floorboards - Rot? Rust?

I will be cutting new floorboards and installing new carpet in my TF this month. What are your suggestions to reduce trapped moisture which will promote rust and rot?

> Will foil-backed heat shield material beneath the carpet trap moisture?

> What are pros and cons of using foil heat shield vs. using only the jute padding supplied with my Moss carpets?

> What should go between the floorboards and the steel supports / frame?

> What should go between the steel supports and the driveshaft tunnel?

It looks like a previous owner used bathtub caulk (not silicone caulk) between the supports and the tunnel; and between the floorboards and the frame.

Thanks for your help and real-world experiences.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

I used the foil backed sound & heat insulation from Quiet Ride. However I lined the pieces contacting he floor with a plastic liner and sealed around the edges with the foil tape provided with the kit.

I also didn't glue any of this too the floorboards. Eventually some day there will be water forced up into - or draining down into the footwell area.

I can now take out the the sound proofing without having to remove the seats etc...

I didn't use caulk to seal anywhere. I went with the 'if it gets in it needs to get out' philosophy

Dave
D Moore

+1 on the 'let it drain back out' plan.
MAndrus

> What should go between the floorboards and the steel supports / frame?

> What should go between the steel supports and the driveshaft tunnel?

Lonnie,

Originally there was 1" wide felt between the floor boards. Felt was also used between the rear quarter and the frame to the boot for the side curtains. Seems this was the material of choice at Abingdon.

I used 1" rubber and plan to use this for the floor boards / frame as well.

You can buy it directly from here:

http://www.rubbersheetroll.com/

I also bought the rubber here for the radiator since it is nice and thin like the original.

I can't help you with the heat shield or make recommendations on it.


Frank Cronin

Lonnie this experience may help you decide. While driving on the Interstate, my seal at the end of the head developed a leak and the cockpit became soaked with antifreeze. I had to remove the rugs to dry and clean them. Most of the fluid was able to drain out. It did take a while to get the smell out.

Freak incident. Yes but rain would act the same way.

Joe

JWP Policastro

At someone's suggestion, I cut strips of the stuff used to line showers before tile placement between the frame/wood. It is thin flexible plastic. I would not seal with any kind of caulk to allow drainage, and would make sure the carpet/padding can be easily pulled up or removed to dry. I have been caught in several really hard rains here in central Florida over the years, with the interior getting really soaked. I think the wood itself is a decent insulator, not the case with the firewall and tranny cover. I used the rear Quiet Ride kit on my 280Z, was really nice but not removable. George
George Butz

Just a side note on heat shield. I believe it works superb in newer metal floors British cars. Really makes a difference in the Tr3 and 6.

I had to pull the tranny after I did that and learned a valuable lesson. Do not t cover screws during the install. Once on and heated it is hard to get off.

Also I put some on the inside of the door and it gets rid of rattles and actually allows the door to close with a solid sound thus like the Mercedes. Well almost.

JWP Policastro

I would reserve the foil backed insulation for the metal tunnels and toeboard. Leave the wood after a good painting and do not seal the edges for drainage.

Most of the heat and noise comes from those metal areas anyway.

This might give you some help too:

http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/mgtd/mgtd_carpet.htm
Christopher Couper

I have fitted two 10 mm strips of wood under the rails on each seat. The hinge at the front actually bolts through these. My upholsterer has cut slots in the carpet to fit around these and a join at the rear. This let's me simply remove the carpet to dry out.

Jan T
J Targosz

A really good coat of paint on all sides of the floorboards, including edges. I used a thin closed cell foam tape too act as a gasket on the steel angles where floorboards are bolted down. Other than that I left everything as open as I could for evaporation and drainage. a really good coat of good quality paint on all steel and wood in this area is a must as far as I am concerned.
...CR
C.R. Tyrell

I used a water based bathroom membrane (Emmerproof) on my timber floors then painted them satin black. Like CR I was keen to protect & preserve the wood particularly where it could come into contact with water. I bought lengths of 3/8" rubber slightly narrower than the chassis rails because I'd noticed the original floor had deformed under the weight of driver & passenger. I plan to glue these to the top of the chassis rail to help support the floor under load. Agree with allowing any trapped moisture to escape. I'll try the original grey cotton padded underlay & see how that goes as an insulator. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Thanks for your input, guys. It is exactly what I was looking for. Based on your suggestions, I will:

Use 3/8" marine or exterior plywood for my new floors. Exterior primer and paint.

Use the jute padding that came with my Moss carpets ... no foil insulation. Lift-the-dots as original.

Clean and epoxy prime all steel supports and "humps" before painting.

Glue foil insulation to the gearbox hump and the driveshaft tunnel (although it seems that it could trap moisture.) Guess engine heat will drive out the moisture.

Probably use a strip of rubber between the wood and the steel supports. Definitely no the felt as original.

60-days until GOF-South and I'm dragging my feet.
http://www.gofsouth.com/

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

I used a clear marine urethane on all surfaces of the wood and then shot an overlay of semi gloss to match the chassis. I did not however us any rubber under the floors to mate the framework. I may live to regret it later when squeeks develop.
W. A. Chasser Jr

Lonnie, one thing about the felt is it allows the wood to breathe. By the time these cars were produced the English had been making carriages for hundreds of years... Perhaps felt was chosen not because they didn't know any better or there were not better materials available.. But perhaps, based on tens of thousands of carriages felt is the best material.
As our cars are urd today.. It probably will make NO difference as to the material you choose. I am guessing it will not be an all weather daily driver.
Regards, tom
tm peterson

Tom -

Funny that you bring it up. I was lying in bed last night re-thinking felt vs. rubber. Kinda seems that a non-porous material like rubber would trap water in any depressions in the steel or wood. Felt would allow it to wick to the edges and evaporate. Haven't made my final decision yet. Hope to cut new floorboards next week, so I have a while to decide.

You're right, my TF isn't an any-weather / daily-driver. But I'm sure that it will get its share of Florida rain on outings with the MG club. I believe that it has been in Central Florida all of its life. It was a daily driver in its younger days. Happily, the steel looks to be in pretty good shape. And I haven't found any wood problems either.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

I recently removed the original floorboards from my TF and found the area in contact with the original felt to be in as good if not better condition than the rest of the boards. There is little doubt in my mind that all those years of oil leakage was a major contributing factor. My felts were/are soaked with oil. I plan to return them to their respectful locations and see if we can get another sixty years out of them.

One thing is for sure though...I'll never know.

Qualifier....California car that was garaged for the last forty years.

TF 7946
Dan Nordstrom

This thread was discussed between 16/02/2015 and 21/02/2015

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