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MG TD TF 1500 - Front Cam Bearing Install

Just wanted to share a little information about a successful installation of a front cam bearing at home during my engine rebuild. I think most know that the machine shops frequently have problems getting these bearings in the block and even if they do get it pressed in, they frequently need to be reamed after wards to fit the camshaft journal. I always wondered about the fit having the correct bearing clearance.

Since I was unhappy with past experience in this area, I made a threaded rod tool to draw them in to the block rather than drive them in with a mandrel and hammer like most machine shops have used that did mine before(sometimes un-successfully). I used a 2 foot 1/2" fine threaded rod with nuts and washers to match, and machined an aluminum mandrel to fit the cam bearing, and another to center the rod in the rear cam bearing housing.
The cam bearing I used was from Brown and Gammons, and had two inter locking tabs at the split line. These may be what Tom Lange is referring to in his earlier posting on this forum. This bearing looks good and it fits without reaming!
However, it doesn't just slide in. Even with the tool I used, it took some steady pressure to draw it into the housing. Since the fit was tight, I didn't worry about bending the tang into the little cut groove. There's absolutely no possibility it could ever spin or loosen.

Richard Cameron

Another picture with a simple drawing showing the tool measurements.

Richard Cameron

Here's the Bearing. I can only load one picture at a time ( as far as I know) ,so forgive my multiple entries.

Richard Cameron

Last picture of bearing number:

Richard Cameron

Nice job!
Gene Gillam

Thanks for the drawing. I'll be heading out to the lathe and build one of these for sure
W. A. Chasser Jr

Necessity is the Mother of Invention! Great Job Rich.
Jim Merz

Just a little more info to include for those interested in making the tool. I ordered all of the hardware from McMaster-Carr because they had it off the shelf without any further machine work. The OD of the rear washers (used two for thickness) is important to permit it to fit in the rear of the block but just be wide enough to butt up against the housing face for drawing in the bearing. The hardware quality I used may be over kill, but I wanted to use the tool on several engines without buggering it up and maybe pass it on to another enthusiast later.

McMaster Part numbers are:

-- 95229A960 Steel Washer 1/2"
-- 98957A809 Alloy threaded rod 1/2"-20 ---2ft.
-- 94191A550 Grade 8 hex nut 1/2"-20
Richard Cameron

Just for an alternate idea... I use a hydraulic press with an aluminum piece machined to fit inside the bearing, and against the front face. Not that it shows much, but here's a photo pressing it in.

Steve S

This thread was discussed between 08/08/2014 and 09/08/2014

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