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MG TD TF 1500 - Front Suspension Springs

I don't know if it has been tried before but I used a different method to reinstall the springs and spring pans.

I attached the A arms but left each nut a couple of turns short of tight.

I put the spring and pan on top of a piece of wood (1" x 6" x 6") and put it all in place with a small jack under it.

I jacked it up into place and slipped the bolts into place at the narrow end of the pan. With a little assist from a second jack, to gain leverage, I raised the wide end into place and slipped in those bolts.

Then I snugged everything up, put the tires on, lowered the car to the ground, bounced it around and tightened everything.

Sorry I forgot top take a picture.

And yes David I used the new poly bushings.


Mort 50 TD

Did the same thing with my MGB. It worked really well. Haven't tried it with the TD. The engine is out and I have no counterweight right now.
TW Burchfield

This is a very fine method, but does require the weight of the engine to compress the springs enough to get the lower king pin to pan bolt in.

Alex
Alex Waugh

Tim - you need to use the chain-and-jack method, if the engine is removed. It works!

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Tom, can you refer me to photos or video of the chain and jack method?
Tim
TD12524
TW Burchfield

I tried the internal spring compressor tool without luck and a couple other alternative methods without any results and finally used the chain and jack method which was quick and easy.
Rich (TD 3983) Taylor

I'm not a big fan of the "free" spring pan install. Easy enough for the jack and or jacks to get off center and spit out the spring and pan with unpleasant results I'd think. I believe I'll stick to the fixed pivot method.
MG LaVerne

Tim - I remember lots in the archives. I would search "chain spring jack"- all these words - in the archives, and you will no doubt find it - and other more obscure methods (LaVerne?).

Basically you attach the whole front suspension except the top trunion bolt - a-arms and pan, bottom trunion bolt, spindle, etc. to the pivot with bushings in place, push it down and insert the spring into position, then put a floor jack underneath the pan. Get a SOLID chain, pad the suspension behind the shock, and close the two ends of the chain as tightly as you can with a grade 8 bolt and nut - the more slack, the harder it will be to compress. Then jack up slowly to compress the spring into position when the top trunion lines up, insert the top bolt. Release pressure, and you're done.

I put a dab of grease around the top and bottom of the spring, to avoid any squeaking.

Lots of frustration for some, but it works fine for me.

Tom
t lange

Tom, I finally figured out the process. the only hitch I had was determining that the jack had to be as close to the spring pan as possible. Once I did that I was surprised how easy it was to compress the spring. I did have to loosen the bolts on the A arms so that the bottom link would fit between them easily. Thanks for the great suggestion.

Tim
TD12524
TW Burchfield

I seem to remember that Dave Braun's site shows pictures of the chain and jack set up. I used the method with a bare frame, engine out, and found it easy as well. One safety tip was to chain around the axle of the floor jack so that everything stays put.

Kirk
Kirk Trigg

LaVerne,
I put a strong safety rope through the spring and pan and looped it around the A arm, just in case.
Mort 50 TD

Mort,
This is how I do the procedure. It works well with an assembled car. I need to wrap a chain around the suspension and the jack if the car does not have sufficient weight.
I stand at least 90 degrees to the side of the projected spring path of travel should things go wrong. It is a little uneasy before the trunion bolts are in. Any time I work with compressed coil springs I become a little nervous. As with much to do with this hobby, a little caution, respect for physics and common sense goes a long way.
I'm glad you have it back together, and I think you will be quite pleased with the new bushings. I have installed many sets, and have yet to replace any. They will not rot like the rubber bushings inevitably do.
David.
D. Sander

This thread was discussed between 26/06/2015 and 27/06/2015

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