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MG TD TF 1500 - Fuel Tank and end panel questions

I got my TD fuel tank stripped. There are a set of spot welds that hold the middle baffle on the exterior middle of the tank.

Were these originally covered with lead/filler or did they show through the paint?


I am also sending my end pannels out to have the edge chromed. In looking at mine, it does not look like the back and part of the bottom edge were ever chromed.

In looking at Chris Coopers TD gallery, I note that in pictures 51 through 53 of this link,


https://www.mg-cars.org.uk/mgtd/Pictures/TD23834/Thumbnails/mgtd_gallery_td23834.htm

it looks like the back edge was painted. I can't tell about the bottom.

If these were painted, can someone tell me how far the chrome went around the upper back and the front lower corners (not talking about the paint line)





Bruce Cunha

Don’t worry about the spots. They are covered by the straps. I don’t understand your last question.
W A Chasser

I am not understanding the last question either.

For TF1414, I painted the tank end panel the same all the way around.

Pics from TF9052 which used the same painting technique like on the TD. Maybe these pictures will help?

Frank

TF1414






Frank Cronin

"it does not look like the back and part of the bottom edge were ever chromed." When chrome plating, the entire part is immersed in the various tanks and are completely submerged so 'part chroming' just doesn't happen. I don't get the other bit either. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

As was pointed out the entire panels are chrome plated but what you want it only the visible edge polished. The rest is going to get painted and a non slick surface is better for paint adhesion.

I'm not 100% sure how I would paint these other than just pointing the gun towards the chromed bits so they were in the paint shadow. Any use of tape etc would have a rough edge.
Christopher Couper

Bill. The straps cover the two side areas where the first and third baffle is welded, but as my picture shows, there are a set of spot welds that run down the center of the tank where the second baffle is. I am just trying to see if these were filled in or just painted over at the factory.

Chris. Having only the front edge that shows polished, makes sense.

As for painting. That is also a good point. Laying tape flat on the chrome surface and just misting the paint along the tape line is how I did it prior.

I just can't see the factory taking any more time than just taping off the flat chrome edge. This would also explain why the paint goes up to the chrome edge and is not lower around the lip.


Does else have a way of painting the end panel and getting a smooth line at the edge if the chrome?
Bruce Cunha

I build a picture to better clarify.

One other question

Was the inside of the filler neck painted or just raw metal?




Bruce Cunha

I found this picture of what is listed as a "show quality restoration"

They masked the chrome off all the way around, and it appears to be too low around the edge.

This is a nice look, but it does not match factory pictures or Chris's picture of an original car.



Bruce Cunha

My tank plate with factory paint. No masking of unseen areas.

M Magilton

Perfect. Exactly what I needed. Do you have one of the lower edge?
Bruce Cunha

No, but the lower edge was also fully painted.
M Magilton

Bottom shot of TF9052

Frank Cronin

The other thing you can do of course is to wipe any overspray off of the flat chrome part. I would do this with lacquer thinner after it dried myself.

If you look carefully at the pictures of original cars you can clearly see that that edges are misted and were not taped nor did they appear they were wiped significantly (ie fully painted and then wiped).

This is why I suggest only painting from the back and bottom direction towards the top and front for those edges.

BTW my car also has the fully chromed edges because I did not know any better at the time. And really it's not as nice as original IMHO because you are going to get a hard edge at the tape line no matter what you do.
Christopher Couper

I was trying to see where the chrome ended and the paint begins on the bottom, but I guess as long as the chrome edge makes it around the corner, it will be fine.

This could also make it simpler to actually chrome. As all edges do not need chrome, it would be possible to dip it up to the point where the chrome stops and the paint continues. That would be just over 1/2 the side. May or may not make it less expensive.

Sides go in for chroming next week, so I will find out.
Bruce Cunha

I think you will find the whole panel was dipped. A quick way to verify would be to look at the back side and see if you see a distinct change in the metal finish.
Christopher Couper

There is just no way that any plater would mess around with part submersion. It simply wouldn't happen. I asked the question of a chromeplater here some years ago and he said it was not possible. Chrome plating was and is an all or nothing exercise. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

For a clean edge when taping, use high quality pinstripe tape for the edges. It comes in variable widths , then use normal automotive paint shop masking tape and paper to cover anything else. PJ
PJ Jennings

Chris. In looking at mine, I don't see chrome on the back. If it is there, it is different from the polished edge. Looks more like plain steel.

Your earlier answer, that only the front was polished is probably correct.

Peter. I don't disagree that probably it was totally dipped.


Bruce Cunha

Chrome is microscopically thin and is only as good as the preparation allows, meaning the part has to be highly polished, such as the edge of the panels before dipping. I have two sets of panels, one set on the car and a set on the shelf, both sets were fully chromed but just the outer edges were highly polished prier to chroming, the sides not being polished are of a rough chrome. It is debatable hoe the factory painted them.
PJ Jennings

To pile on to what Paul stated.

When chroming the item or place that is to be shiny chrome is buffed or polished to a mirror like finish. It is then usually brass plated to fill little pits and then this layer can be polished again.

Now the item is dipped in a second tank that is nickel silver. This actually is the shiny bright metal you are seeing. It's a bit yellowish in tone.

But nickel silver tarnishes pretty quickly so a protective coat (as Paul stated which is super thin) is applied on top. This is the third tank the part is dipped in. Chrome is a bit blueish so this changes the color of the item a bit.

If you have some ID plates that are in good condition you can compare the finish on these, after buffing them with some car cleaner wax, to something that is chrome like the door locks, bumpers, windscreen etc.
Christopher Couper

On 'steel' in particular, it is the copper (not brass) coating that is the very important and critical element that is applied in the early stage of the plating process. Copper may fill pits and then it is buffed to a shine. It is softer compared to the Nickel and is therefore easier to work. This can be done several times over to get the desired blemish free surface.


Nickel can be then be applied followed by the very thin chrome plating.

Any shortcuts on the surface preparation and/or an over zealous Linishing person, can turn your day into a disappointing nightmare !

Preparing your own parts to a fully buffed, gleaming finish before handing them to the plater, assists in preserving precious engraving, stampings, dates etc.

Cheers
Rob Grantham
TF3719("Aramis"), TF9177("Athos").
Rob Grantham

That is a great point on the undercoating. There is NO undercoating on the back and bottom. I know because I sanded these. This is one of the reasons I was not sure the plate was fully dipped at the factory.

I agree with the issue of finish. These got polished on my polishing machine to prepare them for the plater.
Bruce Cunha

Rob: Thanks for fixing my non ferrous metal. Brain cells getting "rusty". :-)

And you made me rush off to Google for this term "Linishing".
Christopher Couper

Speaking of chroming, in general, the quality and lasting effect on chrome comes from the copper coating and the lack of this process on some cheaper parts is why they rust very fast when left out in the weather. It's always cheaper and better, in the long run, to have the original parts redone by a quality chrome shop and stay away from the "odd country" replacements. Hope I was polite enough and political correct saying Odd Country! Grin. PJ
PJ Jennings

This thread was discussed between 09/03/2020 and 20/03/2020

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