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MG TD TF 1500 - Fuel Tank rust removal

O.K. so I've searched archives and not found a thread under rust and restoration. Got mixed views via search engines so I'll ask the question. How have you cleaned successfully the inside of your fuel tank. The car I'm in the process of restoring has obviously been stored for a number of years and naturally what is obvious via the fuel filter has a petrol tank coated with rust. I've researched various products-Pro15 -Rust Encapsulator-Miracle Paint none of which seem to fit the bill.
Step one obviously is remove all the old contaminants and get the rust out. Any advice/personal success stories.
Step two any future preventative measures.
None of the research I've done covers a part of the car which is inaccessible such as the fuel tank.
Again any personal advice experience would help.
JK Mazgaj

One approach from a local restorer here was to mount the tank on a concrete mixer using a jig made of ply secured to the chrome trim attachment points, add a few handfuls of nuts (the metal kind but not too big to prevent damage) & let it rotate for a few hours. Using a torch peer in through the filler cap neck every once in a while. You should end up with a shiny new metal interior. Whatever method you use will almost certainly involve removing the tank from the car. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

JK, Once you get it clean, this is a very good product to line the tank with. Not sure if it's sold in the UK. PJ



Paul S Jennings

look under fuel tank cleaning there are several threads with lots of tips. Mine was so bad that I had to have a shop cut the tank open to access the baffles. (A PO had used some "miracle" sealer which was coming off in large strips, so big they would never come out without opening it up). If you have to go to that extreme, have someone cut holes in the middle of the back of the tank so when resealed they cannot be seen.
But if you're just talking loose rust, you can remove the tank and mount it in a jig (using the 4 bolt points that hold the chrome side pieces on) and spin the tank in place. Various people have used things like nuts and bolts, sand, or other abrasives to clean out the tank using this method.
I built a jig that just hung the tank from the roof of my shed, and I could spin the tank in 3 axes very easily. It just took two steel square tubes (drilled to mount to the tank bolts) and some chain mounted to the tubes, so it could hang. Easy and free.
You need to get it completely clean before sealing, and then follow the instructions precisely for whatever sealer you are going to use. Imperfect adhesion of the sealer to the tank will cause horrible headaches in a few years, as I discovered.
My shop after sandblasting the interior of the tank used the red kote sealer that Paul mentions, which has a very good reputation. You may also want to look at POR 15 sealant products, many on this forum swear by it.

http://www2.mg-cars.org.uk/cgi-bin/or17?runprog=mgbbs&access=&mode=archiveth&subject=early/96&subjectar=8&thread=E199807230416150


http://www2.mg-cars.org.uk/cgi-bin/or17?runprog=mgbbs&access=71410225600099&mode=archiveth&subject=8&subjectar=8&thread=201411300043078013

Good luck!
Geoffrey M Baker

The best thing to treat loose rust in the first place when you don't have direct access, e.g. In a tank, is to use phosphoric acid. Leave to soak for a few days, then flush out, blow air through to dry and then treat with a proprietary coating material, like an epoxy liner.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Unless your tank is really sound, with only surface rust you are better buying a new one. Metal Micky makes superb ones and they cost just over £300

Jan T
J Targosz

I have the same issue as JK and was wondering if anyone could explain the construction of the TF tank. I had assumed it had nothing inside but posts I have read have talked about baffles. My concern is that the tips about agitating screws etc may only clean one portion of the tank. How can they get past the baffles (and what are baffles). Similarly for the product to seal the tank can this get around the baffles without clogging the first baffle it comes to. Thanks for any help.
D Lamb

If I remember correctly ( because its over a year since I did mine) there are a couple of vertical steel baffles from top to bottom. They have a large hole at the base. So they stop liquid from slopping from one side to the other quickly, but not slowly. When you remove all the hole covers and peek inside you can see clearly. Obviously caution if there has been fuel in there recently. And even if not. If it is recoverable, i.e. no holes or serious rust, hose it out to remove any loose rust, then treat with phosphoric acid, rinse, and coat the inside. You have to roll the tank about in every direction many times to makes sure its coated throughout, but it works. You have to seal up the various orifices with whatever at the various stages.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Thanks Dave that all sounds good.
D Lamb

If you do use phosphoric acid, take precautions - gloves and goggles. Its much less aggressive than many other acids but care still required when concentrated. You can buy 5litres off ebay. Either use the concentrated stuff and roll around the tank over the rusty areas until your fed up with doing it, or add to a couple of gallons of water, pour into the tank, and fill to the top with more water. Give a slosh around to mix and leave in there for two or three days. Whatever you do, don't half fill it and leave it at that or you will get no rust below the water line and lots above it. If you keep the spent solution in a tub you can still use it to derust other steel and iron items by immersing them for a few days.
Dave H
Dave Hill

See http://www.ttalk.info/FuelTankInnards.htm for a look inside. Thanks to Bill Cassidy. Bud
Bud Krueger

Thanks Dave very interested to see the inside of the tank.
D Lamb

Apologies Thanks Dave Bud and Bill
D Lamb

One cup salt to each gallon of household vinegar. No toxic, no waste disposal issues, won't harm the paint. Leaves shinny metal. Either use a rotisserie or fill the tank full (vinegar is cheap. I filled the tank.)
Regards, tom
tm peterson

Tom did you then go on to use one of the tank sealing kits? I'm still concerned about using the kit as I've seen a few tanks ruined by incorrect use of these products. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Or strap the tank onto a cement mixer and let that do the work.
Old Morris Minor trick but with gravel!

Regards
Declan
D Burns

This thread was discussed between 02/02/2015 and 05/02/2015

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