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MG TD TF 1500 - Gearbox Torque Figures

Refitting gearbox to car, questions on torque settings.

Particularly the 8 bolts that attach the bell housing to the gearbox?

What about rear housing 6 bolts?

Thanks,

Peter
P G Gilvarry

Peter,
According to my memory they are all M8x1mm bolts and studs so 19ft-lbs would be the correct torque.
Regards
Declan
Declan Burns

Declan,

Thanks, I think you are correct for the bell housing to sump (alloy) bolts. They are 8mm-1 x 1", 10 of them.

The ones I am referring to are the ones that bolt the bell housing back to the gearbox.

Sadly the workshop manual is not full of those figures.

I will ensure they are snug, they were not hard to undo when I took the bell housing off the replace the first motion shaft oil seal.

Today is the day for the box to go back in after I safety wire the selectors. Got a new lip seal from the dimensions on the old one, replaced the rear bearing also while the housing was off. The bearing is common in US washing machines here in the USA.

Would have liked to have gone 5 speed but the Chancellor of the Exchequer vetoed the expenditure, at this time.

Regards,

Peter
P G Gilvarry

It may be a good idea to really clean and then smear a film of blue Permatex or similar under the tailshaft washer and flange area. Oil can leak between the flange and shaft, then weep out under the washer/nut. Make sure you tape the sharp splines on the first motion shaft before sliding the bellhousing with seal on, or it will damage the seal. George
George Butz III

Taped the splines before sliding the bell housing home, remembered to remove it before installing the gearbox, BUT, I forgot to safety wire the speedo drive screws, so I get to do that from under the car tomorrow.

Peter
P G Gilvarry

Peter,
I have just had a look at my spare gearbox and there are eight M8x1mm bolts securing the bell housing to the gearbox so 19 ft-lbs.
Regards
Declan
Declan Burns

Thanks Declan, nipped them up to 20ft/lbs and got the box back in the car. It went in remarkably easily with my 4” guide bolts.

All the bolts to engine/sump are in, mount bolts in back are fastened. Uncomfortable with no locking nuts on driveshaft so I will revisit that.

Planning on getting floor/seat in on drivers side to road test but first I need to safety wire the speedo drive screws. Forgot to do them before installing the box.

Maybe if I can get all the additional stuff out of the garage I will be able to road test it later today.

Peter.
P G Gilvarry

Recently there have been many questions about torque values on the board. I know there are some charts around for our engines. I can't imagine the factory using a torque wrench on parts other than key items such as rod and main bearing caps, cylinder head, etc. 19 ft/lbs may be a general value for a certain size/thread bolt. There are many variables: condition of the threads, type of bolt- ie does it stretch, what grade is it, etc. Is that value for dry threads? Lubricated threads? What is the mating surface- flat/smooth/lock washer/steel/aluminum? Sealant on the threads would act the same as lubricant. Exceeding likely torqueing one of the bellhousing to aluminum oil pan bolts would strip it immediately. In non-critical applications, I think careful hand tightening and common sense better than a torque wrench in many instances. Suggest Googling this subject, volumes out there on the subject. Maybe Tom Lange or Len Fanelli can comment. Just be careful- having twisted off my share of bolts, it is not a good thing to do! George
George Butz III

This thread was discussed between 23/10/2019 and 24/10/2019

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