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MG TD TF 1500 - Generator washers

I know the generator adjustment bolt has a large washer on it. How about the bottom? Large washer on both sides of the bottom back bolt with a split washer? One for the back side of the front bolt?
Bruce Cunha


Bruce I've never seen an exploded break down illustration of the hardware for the TD generator mount, but I currently have 4 cars that were assembled about the same in this pivot mount area. What you describe sounds right except, I would also use a flat washer under the bolt head at the front mount point to protect the aluminum generator bracket.

A couple of other points to consider if your generator is the standard 39PV. I believe there was a spacer (about 1/4" thick) at the front mount to align the pulley with the others. Abingdon lists the spacer under external engine parts--item, 156, and they also show 5/16" X 22tpi Whitworth BSF bolts 1 1/2" long.
While some of my engines had metric 8mm bolts for the mount, I believe the ones abandon shows are actually correct and would seem to be what the MG factory would have used on the assembly line. Another point, make sure the generator pivot brackets fit without tension between the front bearer plate and the steel block angle mount. The aluminum front generator bracket can crack.
Richard Cameron

For years my generator had a broken aluminum bracket, right through the hole. A friend TIGed it back adding in a piece to form the boss.
The threads are Witworth. The only Withworth bolt on the TD. Most Witworth bolts have the same thread pitch as UNC (Not 1/2-W) but the angle of the threads is 55 degrees not 60 as for UNC/UNF/Metric.
When I went to remount the generator It was apparent that a spacer was needed. I made one to fit. I dont think the "Spacer Police" will know its not original. I also uses a washer on the other side of the adjusting bracket, since the generator needs to slide to be adjusted.
I further used a check nut on the far side of the bolt. /

Jim B.

PS My engine # is 16052
Note cast pulley.


JA Benjamin

Jim,

The correct way to fit the adjusting bracket is to have the offset towards the front, you have it back to front. If you reverse it you won't need the spacer.

John
J Scragg

Have whitworth head/metric thread bolts for the lowers and the correct whitworth head/thread for the adjuster. Also have the spacer.

There are not many pictures that include the lower bolts to show what washers they used. I did find a picture from Dave Braun's build that show the way he did it.

All the suppliers catalogues do not show a flat washer for these, but I agree that it will give more support to the mounts, so that is what I am going to do.
Bruce Cunha

John;
I tried that 4 or 5 years ago when I was assembling the car.
For whatever reason that will not work with my engine.
If the adjusting bracket were straight, I could eliminate the spacer.
Flipping the bracket around causes interference with the generator flange casting.

Jim B.

JA Benjamin

John. The only way mine would fit was with that bracket the other way.

Ok, looking on the web. Most I see have the bar on the back side. But I do see some of the older fan like mine with the bar on the front side.

Whats the consensus.


Bruce Cunha

The most important thing is to line up the pulleys and the configuration of the bracket is incidental.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Bruce,

I am curious as to why your generator is positioned that way. I suspect that it is too far back by about 3/8". Can you check that the lower rear fixing point is as this picture. (copyright Dave Braun)

John



J Scragg



I put a straight edge across the waterpump and generator pulleys. It looks pretty level.


I think the other picture without the pulley on makes it look different.


The generator is bolted on just like Johns picture.

Bruce Cunha

This thread was discussed between 17/03/2019 and 21/03/2019

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