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MG TD TF 1500 - Glove Box Interior Fasteners

Mort was up today on his way to the GOF.

I noted that his cardboard interior was fastened with FH wood screws. Mort conceeded that this was his doing.

I need to fasten mine in the next day or two. Should it be nailed? Should it be screwed? What size?

Thanks

Jim B.

p.s. the new door is made.
JA Benjamin

Jim,

I just took a look at my dash board pocket and the cardboard box inertia is held to the plywood dash with staples. It is very secure and does not show any signs of movement.

Screws would be just as good I'm sure - but staples were a tad quicker to install.

Rod
R D Jones

Thanks Rod.
Jim B.
JA Benjamin

OEM style is with flat head screws. Mort was right. Bud
Bud Krueger

From the Gordan Lawson archives

Plenty more from other sources here:

http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/mgtd/mgtd_gallery.htm

Chris Couper

Ok Bud.
You saved me spending $20 for a box of SS staples.

Now about the screws, #2 or #4? Slotted or Phillips.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

Definitely slotted. Must go and check the gauge. Bud
Bud Krueger

I have been struggling on the glove box for about a week now. Forming the chrome striop around the door was the most difficult task I have undertaken on the TD.
I has fought me all the way.
I purchased some #4 3/4" long slotted oval head screws and cup washers to hold the inner box. As I was readying the opening for installation, I noticed some things sticking out of the plywood opening. I was able to remove the remains of 6 wire nails with no heads. Perhaps the heads had rotted away.

I hanve no Idea if they were original. It appears the dash has a lot of mystery. I have a speedometer with a high beam lamp. My car is 12789. According to the archives I should not have this. The glove box door was not original. However all the gauge faces seem to match?

I found that you can not countersink the trim for the FHWS. The #2's I had planned to use will pule through. You must FORM the countersink. I would up using #4 FHWS and making a form tool. (see pix)

I used the #4 screws to hold the trim in place as I formed it. The pine tuned out to be too softand the screws pulled out. I wound up drilling out the holes to 1/4" and gluing in hardwood dowels. Even then the chrome trim cam off many times. I had initially drilled the trim clearance for the screw body. This is too much even when forming the countersink. 0.070 or a #50 drill is just about right.

I am just now waiting for some striped wire to wire up the pigtails on the high/low beam-Horn switch and I can finally put the dash on the car.

Jim B.






JA Benjamin

Oh! BTW,
I had lost the screws on the warning lights.
They appear to have been 4BA. Moss does not list 4BA but the screws they sell as a kit for the TD serial number plates did fit.

Looking at the dimensions I determined that a US 5-40 would be close enough. I tried the a 5-40 tap I have and it seemed to fit, albeit a bit tight. I ordered a box of binding head 5-40 by 1/4" SS from McMasters for a few less $ than Moss sells the kit of 10 for. and they fit fine.

So 10-32 works for 2BA and 5-40 works for 4BA.
If any member has also lost the screws I can put a couple in the mail.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

Jim B: Hope you have not done the trim under the dash yet with FHWS as they were RHWS.


Chris Couper

Yes I have alreasy.
I think I can change, if needed but I will need to order #2's

Jim B
JA Benjamin

What I just said is incorrect. Both the top and bottom of the outer chrome strip that surrounds the dash are held on with nails. My original upper trim was this way.
I did not have much lower trim left. The lower fasteners can be changed if needed.
Only the glove box and door has FHWS.

I did cheat a but and I used threaded nails.
Getting them out is a task.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

Nails are right for the top chrome strip. RH screws for the bottom. Bud
Bud Krueger

Both FHWS and RHWS are 1/2" in length. I can't tell if the RH are #3 and the FW are #2 or they are #4 and #3 respectively.

The nails are tiny too. 1/2" length and flat headed. They are basically brads (#20?).
Chris Couper

Thanks Chris, I was going to ask the size of the RHWS.

I believe I have #4 It looks like the #2 FHWS will fit in the 0.072" screw holes. So I will order some.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

This is what I think they are. Note I also discovered that the FHWS seem to have a slightly smaller head than today.

The glovebox trim seems to be secured with 1/2" #2 FHWS.

The glovebox hinges 1/2" #3 FHWS

The lower trim is 1/2" #3 RHWS.

All slotted.

I found a source for all of these at Grainger's.

I will be interested in hearing what you find with modern screws. I took my old ones to the chrome platers and it will probably cost me $1 each to get them back :-)
Chris Couper

I will be interested in hearing what you find with modern screws. I took my old ones to the chrome platers and it will probably cost me $1 each to get them back :-)

My plater would be more than $1 per.

I used #2 x 1/2 sloted FHWS around the outer chrome trim of the glove box opening.

The only #3's I can get were brass. I used #4 by 1/2 SS around the Glove box door. the #2's would not hold in the forming process

I agree with #3 sloted FHWS on the hinges. I have two sets of hinges. One fits the #3 quite well. The other had been modified for #4's I used #4s as they match the screws on the surround. I had to drill out all the screw areas and glue in hardwood dowels. The screws pulled out of either the Plywood or the pine.
I used #2 RHWS, slotted, on the bottom of the dash.
I had fastened with #15x1" SS threaded nails. Removing the ones on the bottom was a task, to be done early in the morning, just after coffee! The #2's did fit the wood OK. I had to drill out the trim a bit.
I had a small piece of original trim. The holes in it were such that #3' or #4 wood screws would fit.

My source for all hardware was McMasters.

Yes I agree on the older or British heads being smaller. In areas where its visible I have turned the heads down. Its a bit of a pain to do, but I ground a tool.

But what about the cardboard glove box sleeve? It was noted that FHWS were used. I saw a pix of an Oval head screw and a cup washers, which I like and purchased.

Mine seem to have been fastened with FH nails. I am sure these would pull out with any weight in the box.



Jim B.
JA Benjamin

JA. My plater was $2 a screw. The 50 dash screws amounted to $100. They turned them around for me in 2 days because I am trying to get ready for a car show next weekend.

All in all I think I have $7000 in chrome on my TD. $2000 was because the bumpers and overriders I took them were a disaster but they look better than new now.
Chris Couper

This thread was discussed between 11/09/2013 and 28/09/2013

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