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MG TD TF 1500 - Head Gasket Sealer Fix

I really don't think I have the experience to replace my head gasket myself, what with replacing all other gaskets, hardware, and taking things to a metal shop. Before I research a decent shop that can do that, has anyone had any success with one of the head gasket fix additives, like Bar's or Blue Devil? If I add that now and then go for a expert repair later, will that do something bad that adds to parts and labor?

Thanks,

Steve
SD Denham

I'm not a fan of these things but will admit I haven't personally tried them. Changing the head gasket isn't as hard as you might think. You just have to follow a certain procedure and keep things as clean as you can. If you were closer I'd come show you how to do it. Maybe someone on the forum is nearby who could help? It can easily be done in a short afternoon.
Steve Simmons

I wonder, can a head gasket leak cause that kind of shudder / shimmy?
SD Denham

What kind of shudder? Typically a head gasket leak will cause rough running, loss of power and possibly smoking. The only shaking would be from the engine running rough.
Steve Simmons

usually head gasket is anti-freeze in the oil, or white smoke out the exhaust from the antifreeze in the cylinder or overheating...or a combination of all of the above.
save your money and fix it if it is broken..the band aid "pour in fix" is a short term fix that will cause bigger problems down the road..filling other small passages in the cooling system.

regards, Tom
tm peterson

Why do you want the change your head gasket? A compression test will show if there is a leak from one of the cylinders and staining on the block / drop in water level could indicate a gasket failure from a water gallery.

Sealant and additives promise the earth but rarely work. If the head gasket is gone the only remedy is a new one, without any sealant. But you must ask why has the gasket failed. It could be old age or overheating or a warped head. It is important you check the head and block face for flatness and to do this you need a flat block of steel about 2" x 2" x 12". One face needs to have an accurate, ground surface. You place this across the head and block faces and you shouldn't be able to fit a .001" feeler strip under it anywhere. It is probably worth getting the head faced anyway. Most engineering shops have a computer controlled fly cutter that will kiss up a head in minutes. If the block face is warped you have a big problem though - engine out!


Just an after thought though, It is probably worth checking the archive for cylinder head thickness. Yours may have been machined previously and whilst this can be done a number of times, if there have been some previous deep cuts your compression ration could be raised too much.


Good Luck


Jan T
J Targosz

3.022" is stock thickness.
Steve Simmons

You can always fit a thicker head gasket if the head has been machined a little too much.
Dave H
Dave Hill

IF YOU EVEN NEED A HEAD GASKET, (and I'm not at all sure I am convinced of that, based on what you write above), I urge you to go ahead and do the work yourself.

The single biggest problem with fixing one component like a head gasket is that there are so many associated parts and pieces that can (should?) also be examined for possible repair. It's a question of how far you are willing to go, and how much restraint you can manage.

For instance, as noted above, changing the head gasket is well within the skills of a homne mechanic. The block and cylinder head both need to be checked for flatness, and re-surfaced as needed. The head is easy to take to the machine shop; but (although it is less likely) if the block needs help, the engine needs to come out of the car for a complete dismantling. Are you ready for that?

And once you have the head off, you are right there - you might as well have a valve job done, the valves and guides checked and lapped in, and the seals replaced. And since you have the rocker gear off, you might well pull a rocker off the shaft and see if the bottom of the rocker shows wear, which will lower oil pressure. If so, off it goes to Rocker Arm Specialists.

Chances are good the head studs are stretched and/or pipe-wrenched. So after you have removed them you run a small whetstone over the surface of the block to remove the high spots by the stud holes, and then you really should replace the studs with higher-quality ones, like the ones I sell.

You really should stop there, but curiosity impells you to remove the side ocver completely, and check the tappets for wear and damage - you're right there, after all. If bad, you probably need a cam and lifters.

To me, it's mostly a question whether you can limit your work to one area - there is little more discouraging than finding nine problems one-at-a-time when you just wantd to fix the one you knew about. If so, I repeat, changing the head gasket is well within the skills of a homne mechanic, and there are many on this Board who will offer help, suggestions and encouragement.


Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

"It's a question of how far you are willing to go, and how much restraint you can manage."

Truer words never stated, especially on an old car forum. :-)
Christopher Couper

Just another thought (these threads are excellent for exercising the brain cells) have you checked the torque of the head studs? Any easy job and just might be the source of your problem.

Tom has wisely recommended replacing the head studs as part of a rebuild. It is worth double checking the torque on these. If it changes you probably have an issue with the threads in the block. I have seen several gasket failures because of this and have had to fit Helicoil or Wurth inserts.

Jan T
J Targosz

Tom's advice very wise! Stop leak product may be fine in an old beater, but I wouldn't go there in your car unless some emergency stranded somewhere. George
George Butz III

Hi all,

Thanks for the advice, I am not going to use the "pour and fix", I'm assuming it's head gasket because I have that nasty gray oil goop in my coolant, oil on dipstick appears okay. I just need to find a decent MG shop in OC, CA that can take a look and I can budget for the repair. I'd rather pay the money and enjoy the car this summer than start it myself and it ends up being a project car in my garage :-)

Steve
SD Denham

Talk to Butch Taras for a recommendation; mgyowner@yahoo.com

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

I know a BMC-trained mechanic who will come to you and make the repair. Contact off list if interested in his info. Email link on my web site mgnuts.com (don't want to directly post it here due to spammers)
Steve Simmons

This thread was discussed between 10/06/2018 and 12/06/2018

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