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MG TD TF 1500 - head stud removal

any suggestions for removal of stubborn head studs, 53 td
l.f. frank

Have you tried "The olde double nut trick"?

Two nuts tightened against each other. Wrench on the lower one?


If that does not work there are tools for removing them, but generally they mark the studs and the studs need to be replaced.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

It also might be possible to use a plain old adjustable pipe wrench to grab the stubborn studs. The nasty teeth in the wrench do the job but produce the same type gouge marks as Jim B. mentioned above that then requires replacement.
Jim Merz

AutoZone, O'Reilly's, etc., have stud extractor sets that you can buy or borrow. As for marking the studs, some types of extractors do, some don't, but if your studs have been in so long that you can't get them out with the double nut trick then you need to replace them anyway (probably do whether they're easy to remove or not).

Gene
Gene Gillam

My old ones showed signs that the PO had used vice-grips on them but I was replacing them anyway. Tom's improved ones are machined to accept a 4mm allen wrench for insertion and removal. Jud
J K Chapin

I am with Jud and the others regarding reusing the existing studs. They really should be replaced any time the head is removed. Cheers - Dave
D W DuBois

I totally agree with replacing the studs! They've been under tension for many years and subjected to heat and cold. A bolt/stud in that situation will stretch to a point and loose some of it's elasticity where re torquing it can easily snap it, you don't want that to happen! JMHO. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Please see mgtrepair.net for information on the superb ARP head studs I sell. Racers like Manley Ford use them on all their engines, because they are, quite simply, the best available anywhere.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Agree with all of the above. I would also add that when replacing the studs it's essential to replace the nuts as well. As Paul points out studs (& nuts) do stretch (not surprising considering the head is always desperately trying to part company with the block), so replacing one without the other is false economy. It's impossible to get an accurate torque reading when mixing old & new nuts & studs as some of the tension is used to overcome the resistance caused by the now "mismatched" threads. If ever you've tried to fit a metric nut on a BSF bolt you'll know what I mean. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

L.F.F.

I suggest a stud remover like this one ~ http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648639-Stud-Extractor/dp/B002INQORU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415400376&sr=8-2&keywords=stud+remover

Can't go too far wrong for $14. I have one but haven't had to use it for a long time, but when I did, I removed a main bearing stud with ease.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gordon A Clark

That type of tool works great at just that - removing. It will chew the daylights out of the stud, so don't even think of using it to install a stud.

Tom Lange
t lange

I spent a day trying to find a good stud puller last time I changed the head gasket. Bought one like the above at NAPA and it was a POS. Broke before I could get all the studs out.

I bought a set off eBay of sockets that have long finger rods inside that grip the stud. Not only did the remove even the most stubborn stud, but they do not mark up the stud. I use ARP studs, and while I agree if you have lots of miles on your head bolts that you should replace them, APR studs probably don't need replacing if you have to pull the head sooner than expected.

These are great at installing them also without chewing them up.

Here is a link to a set on eBay.

http://drw.sh/ucpzaz
Bruce Cunha

Bruce is right about the roller-type stud removersd (I have Stahlwille ones that do well), but be very sxure to keep clear of threads on the studw. Even this type of stud remover will deform threads.

I re-use my ARP studs, and have had no problems. I also am not uncomfortable about re-using head nuts, because I have had no problems doing so. I am loking into having new tall nuts made, but the cost is high with metric threads and Whityworth hex. Soon I may be able to offer high nuts that are metric thread and metric head (looking the same as original), but am not sure yet. I'm getting samples.

Sorry for typos; I just had e4ye surgery and am typing blind...

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Got a call from one of our favorite list members in Ohio this morning. Seems he has been in hiding ever since this thread "HEAD STUD REMOVAL" started. He though it was a conspiracy to come and get him. I assured him his status as head stud was intact, and that the thread referenced engine repair! So, David, you can come out of hiding!
Larry Brown

If you break a stud don't ever think of using a stud EXTRACTOR. I am referring to the tapered LH screws that you screw into a drilled hole in the broken stud and hope that as the taper grips and you turn in anti clock it will unscrew the stud. The first problem is the taper actually expands the broken stud so it grips more tightly and the second, very serious problem, is the extractors are hardened and if it breaks in the stud you cannot drill it out. You will have to find a shop with a spark erroder and it will take about half a day to deal with each stud.


Jan T
J Targosz

Heat is always the answer. If my studs show any hint of not breaking loose, I use a small butain touch to heat the stud. Works pretty much every time.
Bruce Cunha

Hi Bruce

You are spot on with the heat. I have removed many studs by sliping a "one size up" nut over the stud and catching it with a run of MIG weld. Often the heat will loosen the stud to such an extent that you don't even need a spanner to unscrew it.

Jan T
J Targosz

Ditto Jan's mig method. I've used it for studs broken off flush. The heat of the weld encourages the stud to leave.
JE Carroll

This thread was discussed between 07/11/2014 and 10/11/2014

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