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MG TD TF 1500 - Holes in Door?
On the top outside of the right door, I found three small holes about 1 inch from the top edge. One quite forward on the door and the other two further back, the third being about two inches from the rearward edge. They were filled with Bondo, which I removed. What are they for and should I fill them in? Sorry no photo yet. PJ |
Paul S Jennings |
Just a guess: Lift the dot studs for a flapping side-curtain? |
David Sheward |
Paul, are they holes for the "lift-a-dot pegs for a tonneau cover? Regards, Tom |
tm peterson |
Ah, Thank you! I was worried I'd have to fill them in and the wood behind eliminates welding. I'll put lift a dot peggs back in when done. Anyone know if the tonneau covers Moss sells have the fasteners installed or left off for self installation, especially for the door? That's a ways off, but while on the subject. PJ |
Paul S Jennings |
Moss does not have the fasteners in ,, so don't put the studs in till you get the cover,, so you can decide where you want them,, SPW |
STEVE WINCZE |
Steve, not quite sure of your meaning as the studs have to go in the holes already in the door, that won't change. As long as the fabric does not have the female part attached, then there will be no problem,if so then I will have to have a cover made. PJ |
Paul S Jennings |
Paul, what Steve is saying..I believe, is the tonneau covers from moss do NOT have the female fittings installed. As you planned, install the studs, when you get the cover you install the female fittings at the proper locations to fit your studs. Regards, Tom |
tm peterson |
Paul, This might help you - from the Moss Site. They talk about the location of the LTD studs and where most are found. Weather equipment from Moss comes with the LTD females supplied but not fitted. So you can Taylor it to your particular car studs. Incase yours don't quite match up to the suggested locations. http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/241-220.pdf Rod |
R D Jones |
Read the Moss article, weld and fill the holes in and after you get your cover, then drill where you want. I have one per door, that works fine on my car. George |
George Butz |
Thanks Tom & Rod, that's good news, so no worry. I just miss read Steves post! My bad. PJ |
Paul S Jennings |
I agree with the philosophy of fill then fit. The TD never had lift-the-dots in the door originally, so you can then follow the standard practice instead of what some uninformed DPO chose. |
Lew Palmer |
Here's the right door and you can see the holes at the top. This door is going to take some time to get it perfect. Even though I believe this door was a replacement years ago, it's in sad shape. I ran out of lead, which the two arrow areas has to be leaded in and I'll lead the holes in at the same time. Cant buy the good lead anymore, so I have to go to a junk yard and tell them I need lead to make some fishing sinkers! That way they'll sell it to me. Crazy huh! Only good thing about the doors is, the left door is near perfect! PJ![]() |
Paul S Jennings |
Paul - I wish that we lived closer together. I would love to help you ... you could get an extra hand, and I could learn about body work, leading, and wood framing. Congrats on your progress and thanks for the updates. Lonnie TF7211 |
LM Cook |
Paul, This is where the studs were on my TD when I put mine together. There were no other holes and I just used what was already there for the tonneau. The main thing is to put them where you will get the best pull on the tonneau to keep it tight and crease free If it rains you want the water to run off & ideally not pool in the center over the seats where the zip is :) Rod ![]() |
R D Jones |
paul you may already be aware..and perhaps cost is a factor, but eastwood sells lead. regards, tom http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=lead |
tm peterson |
Thanks Tom, I knew they had the tools, but thought the lead was out! From them, I figured it would be high in price. I can get ten pounds from the junk yard for what they want for one. I use Tinners fluid, (a mild acid), for bonding. Have to be careful with it as a breath of it from a hot surface will put you on your knees! A hepa mask prevents this. A little tough on a vertical surface, but used it back when not much else was available, habit I guess. Thanks for letting me know about Eastwood, just never thought of looking there. PJ |
Paul S Jennings |
Been working on this door for three days now trying to get it straight. It really is in poor condition. Working on it with the wood framing in place creates the problem. It should be re skinned, but that would be the last resort, even if possible to get a new skin. A good used replacement door would be a handy alternative, something not in my storage bin. I've leaded the two areas indicated and they came out well, but there's a buckle in the upper rear skin. If needed, I'll try and heat/cold shrink it out. We'll see. Sure testing my sanity! Grin. PJ![]() |
Paul S Jennings |
You will have to use a hammer and dolly and a shrinking hammer to get the shape right. Hammer out dents and ripples, while also keeping the compound curve on the door. I did a TF with a huge dent in the door. I removed plastic body filler over two inches thick, hammered the door back in to shape, then had to shrink the metal to get the proper compound curve back. In the absence of a shrinking hammer you can use an arc welding slag hammer to put many tiny dents in to shrink the metal enough. These hammer dings will shave to be filled in with body filler when the shape is correct. David |
D. Sander |
I have the proper hammers and dollies Dave. I even have a leather bean bag. It's just a royal pain in some areas being against wood. But, we'll make it! Might take a little longer than normal. Thanks for your help, much appreciated. I haven't beat on panels for 25 years, but the old brain is remembering some of it! LOL. PJ |
Paul S Jennings |
This thread was discussed between 26/04/2014 and 29/04/2014
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