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MG TD TF 1500 - Hood Installation - Trials and Tribulations
|Well, I got the hood frame installed. Following the advise from Dave B's site and reaffirmed by George B, I installed the pivot points so that the cross sticks from the windscreen bow to the first bow are 19-1/2 from the lowest point of the door wher the hinge is. This looks right as I test fit the hood (see image).|
Of course I forgot to water seal the wood top rail and I only thought I had some Thompson's water seal so things are at a pause while I make a trip to Lowes.
My plan for attaching the back of the hood to the tub tacking strip is a modification of Dave B's modification. I have a jar full of Lift-the-Dot pins and fittings so where he used snaps I plan on using LTDs. I'll use short stud LTDs everywhere except where the strap (is that called the side stay?) attaches and there I'll use a long stud LTD that will hold both the strap and the hood.
I'm fitting a two-bow hood to a later '53 TD that should have a three-bow frame but the two-bow frame is what was with the car when I bought it. I ordered the stay-Fast top from Moss and, because I ordered a top for a two bow frame Moss did not include the weather extruder with three notches (my miper moter is mounted in the middle of the windscreen as are, according to Moss, all TD after about September 1952). I'll call Moss on Monday and ask for a three notch extruder.
Once the extruder is installed (actaully I took the wipers and wiper motor off because the wipers are pretty useless, I didn't thing they added beauty or sleekness to the car and I never intentionally drive in rain so I could go with the two notch extruder) I'll start thinking about how I want to attach the hood at the front. I'm actually thinking about snaps or short LTDs because I want to be able to remove the hood from the frame and remove the frame from the car but I'll have to see how practical that is.
This saga mown't be as good or as detailed as Dave B's but I hope something in here helps someone someday.
|J K Chapin|
|Jud, I don't think you want to use LTDs. They stick up much farther than snaps and will have a propensity to wear holes in your hood. Bud|
|Thanks. I've re-thought (actually about 50 times) the idea of being able to remove the hood from the top rail wood and the current plan (subject to change but I don't expect it) is to go ahead and attach the hood to the top rail wood in the conventional fashion. |
Bud, am I correct to assume that your comment relates to attaching the hood to the top tail wood and is not a recommendation against using LTDs to attach the hood to the tacking strip at the rear of the tub? Those studs at the rear will go all the way through the fabric and shouldn't cause wear.
Also, Moss offers an LTD tool for the princely sum of $48 plus shipping. I'll need it to do about a dozen LTDs or I can do them the old way - poke them thru and bend the tabs with needle nose pliers. Has anybody used the Moss LTD tool? Is it worth the money? Does anyone have one they don't need anymore or that they'd be willing to share?
|J K Chapin|
|Jud, I don't know what you mean by 'top tail wood'. But, I'm specifically speaking of the tacking strip at the rear of the tub. The snaps have a smooth, curved top surface that is virtually unnoticeable under the flap across the back. LTDs are not that way. But, it's just MHO. Bud|
Just a quick comment. If memory serves me correctly, I think that your car and my TD 24935 were made on the same day. At the very least, they were really close. My car hasn't been on the road since '72 and it came with a three bow top. However, if I were in your position I'd probably use the two bow as well.
|Agree with Bud - LTDs are not what you want to use. Get the large gripper snaps with the dome shaped head, which will be invisible under the flap. Even if you don't make the hood completely removable, being able to unsnap the rear of the hood makes it much easier to load things behind the seat back. I remember loading our bags in the TD with the back of the hood lifted up and one of our members came by and said, "oh look, a TD hatch back!" Cheers - Dave|
|OK, I'm 99% talked out of LTDs and will seek out the large gripper snaps. Are they something a local shop should have or should I call LBC?|
" Jud, I don't know what you mean by 'top tail wood'." Bud, I always carefully proof my posts before hitting submit and I always form at least three typos when I re-read them. That's Top Rail Wood - see image 18 under Weather Equipment-Installing the Hood on Dave B's site.
|J K Chapin|
I believe I would find a good set of side frames and have them in place before I secured everything else. The side frames can't be altered much but the hood/top can be moved up/down quite a bit.
That's just my thought on it.
|Rich (TD 3983) Taylor|
|Speaking of typos, I just realized that I reversed the last two digits in my earlier post. Make that TD 24953.|
|I should have seen that, Jud. Sorry. The dome shaped snaps are quite common. Last I knew Sears sold a packaged set that even included a punch and die for installing them. It was $10'ish. Also common in places that sell boat things. Bud|
|Aha! Boat place. And I've been wanting to see about getting a marine 12v. accessory socket because I understand they are fully insulated and therfore suitable for installing in a Pos. Gnd. TD.|
|J K Chapin|
|Jud, I agree with Rich. Before you attempt to cover your frame it is essential to ensure the side curtain frames as well as the hood frame are located in their final positions. This should be done before the upholstery is intalled. Use ply to make up for the thickness of the upholstered panels while you use trial & error to find the best possible fit. It is worth printing out the Moss instructions for their kits if you have not already done so. They are far from perfect but they do have some useful information & suggestions including the one above. Cheers.|
Peter TD 5801
This thread was discussed between 16/02/2014 and 17/02/2014
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