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MG TD TF 1500 - How to preserve frame clips before media blasting?

My TF frame will be blasted, epoxy sealed, and 2K painted soon. Most of the clips on the frame for brake, fuel, and harness are good. Only a couple are messing.

How can I protect them so that an overzealous blaster won't destroy them? Or am I nervous for no reason?

What is a good source to replace the missing ones?

Thanks,

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Sandblasting with them on shouldn't be a problem. If you can keep the originals, preserve them.

The repo's are rubbish. I've gotten some from MOSS and AS and the quality are similar. If I needed six, I ordered a couple more because they break. Plus they are ridiculously expensive.

Frank

TF1414
Frank Cronin

Yeh. Leave them on. Extremely brittle and will break if you try to pry them off.
Christopher Couper

They come out easy peasy--
Just poke the cutting side of a knife blade in from the top, down to where the tangs go in the hole and twist the blade to push the tangs out- It's that little flat bar in the middle you have to push against, if you just try pulling on the clip edges yes they'll break every time
With them out I tapered heaps of dowel (sticks) and poked in all the holes I could find to stop the frame getting filled up with sand
Nothing worse than trying to spraypaint and having sand flying out the holes

willy
William Revit

You will break some taking them out. As Chris pointed out, they get brittle.

But you are better off taking them all out and replacing them. When you put the wire in them, you most likely will break one. The other reason to take them out is the media blasting gets into the frame, so plugging the holes will help keep it out. I used the little rubber plugs used to hold inner fenders on.

As to replacing them. Early ford wire clips are nearly identical. One of the best prices I found was at.

https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/cgcat.php?searchtype=Search+%23&x=x&year_choice=99&searchtextdesc=&searchnumber=8m-14197



Bruce Cunha

"The repo's are rubbish. I've gotten some from MOSS and AS and the quality are similar. If I needed six, I ordered a couple more because they break. Plus they are ridiculously expensive."

Couldn't agree more! They are really badly made because they miss one vital manufacturing step. The tangs on the originals were offset. This is deliberate so that they can easily slide past each other when being inserted and then spring back to their neutral position. The tangs on the new version are in exactly in the same plane which is why they break. Really lousy quality control. Both suppliers should send them back to the manufacturer. I'd recommend keeping the originals. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

You will break some taking them out. As Chris pointed out, they get brittle.

But you are better off taking them all out and replacing them. When you put the wire/brake line or fuel line in them, you most likely will break some. The other reason to take them out is the media blasting gets into the frame, so plugging the holes will help keep it out. I used the little rubber plugs used to hold inner fenders on.

As to replacing them. Early 36-60 Buick wire clips are nearly identical. One of the best prices I found was at.



http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3888J
Bruce Cunha

Use the last post. My earlier one is for the large wire clip on the top of the frame.

The price at Fusick is nearly 1/3 everyone else.

Don't know how to delete a post so I could not get the top one removed.
Bruce Cunha

That's a good lead there Bruce. How was the quality?
Frank Cronin

I can't compare them to Moss or Abingdon, but I did not have any break when I installed them. I replaced all mine.

I have taken a couple out and they did not break.

They look very very close to the ones I took out. And at about 1/3 the cost of what others are asking, a pretty good bargain.

When I ordered them, I told the person on the phone he may see an increase in orders from MGTD folks.
Bruce Cunha

Lonnie, I left mine on the frame and they came out just fine. PJ

PJ Jennings

Another,


PJ Jennings

Well, I've changed directions in prepping my chassis. I'm going to try to degrease, grind off old paint and surface rust, then paint.

My chassis is surprisingly rust free. I can't get the tie rods loose from the tie rod ends, plus I know nothing about working on the front end. A wonderful Brit-car shop in town is going to look at the diff and install new seals, and will replace bushes in the front. AND, they will let me paint the chassis on their lift while they work on the diff.

I'll start another thread to ask for tips on clean and paint.

Bruce, the clips that you linked cost less than most of the ones at 1940s-1950s Chev truck suppliers that I used when I had my 54 Chev pickup. Thanks.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Another change of direction. Chassis will be blasted next week. I removed the clips. Three were missing. Three broke. The remaining 17 came out OK.

Debating POR15 or epoxy sealer and 2K top coat.

Thanks for your help and suggestions.

Lonnie
TF7211



LM Cook

Lonnie. POR is a fantastic primer for bare metal. It is all my body shop uses.

Saying that. I use DP 90 It is PPG's two part primer and it is really great.

I did my TD frame in it and the put a medium gloss 2 part black over that.

Here is the frame in primer.

Bruce Cunha

Here is the bottom side in paint.

Bruce Cunha

This thread was discussed between 25/03/2019 and 04/04/2019

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