Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.
|
MG TD TF 1500 - Infamous Brake box
While working on the brake and clutch pedals I noticed the brake pedal linkage had a 5/16 clevis pin while the holes in the fork and pedal seem to be 3/8. This would appear to allow too much play. Can anyone confirm that the clevis pin should be 3/8 inch? Also I found that the clutch stop was missing. I really can't see buying one so does anyone know the dimensions so I can make one? Thanks, I know most people don't like messing in the brake box but since the body is off the frame, now seems to be the time to sort these issues out. Bob |
R Brown |
Bob, There are many earlier threads about this area. I found a lot of slop when working on mine. Much after I had the car running I had reason to be working in this area. I did a repair while everything was already in place. I drilled out the parts I could reach and as I recall I got a small bushing from McMaster-Carr 3/8" OD x 5/16" ID. I cut two small pieces to fit as shown. It was not a perfect repair but is holding up very well. Mort ![]() |
Mort Resnicoff (50 TD-Mobius) |
On my TD almost all the clevis pin holes were worn. I drilled them out to the next "standard" size (in 1/64" steps) and made custom pins to fit. Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
To answer the question about the brake pin, I recall that it is about 3/8", noticeably larger than the clutch pins. I think I have a spare fork end/pin in my attic but not digging around to look tonight. Moss lists different part numbers as well clutch vs. brake pins. Search the archives for clutch stop, I think someone gave instructions for that a while ago. BTW, my TD had a cable originally, and was converted to rod years ago. It has never had a stop, and I have never had a problem, maybe lucky? George |
George Butz |
Thanks for the inputs and based on the comments I plan on using a 3/8 inch clevis and from what I have seen on another thread, a bolt with stacked nuts for the stop. |
R Brown |
Bob - e-mail me at SUfuelpumps@donobi.net and I'll send you information on making and installing a stop bolt. Cheers - Dave |
David DuBois |
Bob, see http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/Clutch_stop.htm BTW, it includes a link to Dave's info. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
Hey, Bob, guess what I just happen to have in my goodie drawer? Yup, you guessed it. Unless you say 'forget about it' it'll be the mail Friday. Too wet out there today and I'll be too busy gobbling turkey tomorrow. Bud![]() |
Bud Krueger |
Bud, There is no end to what is in your goodie drawer. Last check Abingdon was out of stock for the stop so you bet I will appreciate the one you have. They still have a price online if that is acceptable. Yes it is a little wet, over 2 inches so far and not expected to end until late tonight before it freezes... |
R Brown |
Bob, The familiar adage, "while your in there" if you are working on the pedal box, why not modify the pedal shaft with an extra lubrication hole so hopefully you will not have to get in there again once the body is put back on. Having done this pedal box already with just only a frame and engine but I can see how it can be a major pain in the butt to repair pedal bushings when the body is in and everything. To give credit where credit is due.... check out on Bud's site. http://www.ttalk.info/PedalShaftDelk.htm Frank |
Frank Cronin |
Bud, Thanks for link to David DuBois's info. - at last I can now make the correct cluch stop - my TF US re-import had an early TD pedalbox fitted when changing to RH drive. A general point, but I suppose a BSF 1/4" 26 TPI thread should really be used ? Although such dies are widely available in the UK, I can understand why a 28 TPI AF thread is often used. Thanks again for the info. Cheers, John |
J C Mitchell |
This thread was discussed between 26/11/2013 and 29/11/2013
MG TD TF 1500 index
This thread is from the archives. Join this live forum now