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MG TD TF 1500 - Measurements TF 3 Bow top/hood

I am now installing the hood/top on my nearly completed 13 year TF project. Through the archives and other external sites I do have a wealth of information apropos the installation of my 3bow top on my 54 TF #3006. What I could not find are measurements from the glass at the front to center of each of the bows. Would someone who has already done this be so kind as to measure these dimensions and publish them here or conversely can direct me to a site that contains them?
Thank you in advance for your help!
Best regards
Rod Murray 54 TF almost done.
Rodney G Murray

The frame of the hood when fitted to the top of the windscreen automatically sets the distance of 2 of the bows. The bow nearest the back of the tub is located by a webbing strap fixed between the rear of the tub and the hood cross frame over the windscreen. This strap also serves to hide the two front to back seams of the hood itself. It’s position should be directly under the hood seam across the car above the rear window in the hood. Contrary to most instructions it is best not to fasten the rear bow to the hood as you can then lower the profile of the hood when folded under a tonneau cover.
N D Wallace

Few get the installation of the hood and side curtains aligning as they left the factory using measurements. This can only be achieved with trial and error in relation to the positioning of the brackets. On an upholstered car we don't have the luxury of measuring, screwing fittings, altering positions, upholstering the frames and then discovering an ugly result with wildly misaligned side curtain trim; and perhaps even worse, having to possibly reveal holes in an expensive upholstered panel. I'm not aware of a totally comprehensive means of hood and side curtain frames installation that produces a "factory" result, except for the work of Rob Grantham. Chris Couper's car looks pretty good too. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

On my TD (2-Bow) I replaced the Main bottom rails and the front latch Pillars.
I did not replace the Hinge pillars.
I felt the best ting was to use the old location for the bow brackets. In order to find where the previous holes were located, under the upholstery.
I made a pin, tight into the existing screw hole, with a stop shoulder and a pointed end.
I also made a "socket that just fitted over the pointed end, to stop the inside quarter panel from being bowed out.
I mounted the panel. I use small screws in the hidem so I can remove the panels in the future. Leaving the quarter unsecured I could snake the tool into the hold and tapping with a plastic hammer fid the location and then with the socket tap the point through the upholstery.

Whether or not the the old position is optimum, it's as close to factory as I think I could get.

If you changed your Hinge pillar, ignore this post.

Jim B


JA Benjamin

I recognize that there is no such thing as a perfect “factory” example and in reality “fettling” was and is the normal standard.
I did replace all my wood and I did know that NO measurement would be precise but what it does do is provide a place to start.
Thierry, on the other BBS did provide me with his measurements and they do give me a place to start on the 3rd Bow.
Using Thierry’s info plus other stuff from both Archives, as well as Schach’s book I have been able to pretty well identify the process needed for everything EXCEPT wrapping the front wood attach. I got my “Kit” from Don Trimming in England and the front wrap doesn’t seem to have the “Weather Flap” sewn in as shown in Schach’s book. So! I’m left with that one piece of the puzzle unresolved.
Thank you all for the help you have given!
Best regards
Rod
Rodney G Murray

Rod

Check this link if you have not already done so, I found it helpful.

http://www.ttalk.info/Curtains/NewMoss.pdf

Graeme
G Evans

This thread was discussed between 22/10/2020 and 28/10/2020

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