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MG TD TF 1500 - Media Blasters

Look like the sheet metal is going to the blasters by the end of next week. What should I expect to pay? Just a ball park figure, no specifics needed. I paid 100 bucks to have the chassis done, but haven't a clue for the sheet metal.
I've learned a lot while working on this car and one main thing it has taught me is, if I ever do another one, it will not have any undercoating on it! I wouldn't get near a car that's been undercoated! I have no idea how many hours I've spent removing the stuff from this car, I have the left front fender left to do and it's done. Probably do that today and tomorrow, it takes two days to get it all off of one fender. This is the old coating they used years ago and it's 1/8th to a 1/4 inch in thickness, actually thicker than bed liner! Believe it or not, I have a box of scrapings that is approaching 10 pounds in weight and I have another fender to do! I'll never touch another car with this stuff on it! PJ
Paul S Jennings

Probably around 500 bucks. I did the TF by hand and it also had the 1/4 to 3/8" undercoating brushed on everything. Took me forever to get it all off. The TD I took to the blaster. Well worth the money I spent.

You might reconsider undercoating the inner fenders and running boards. I did not and wished I had. I sprayed on the "chip" coating found on the sills of a lot of new cars a few years back with the hopes it would absorb the blows from rocks picked up by the tires. It did not and consequently I've got a lot of blemeishes now on the fenders from the blows from below that wouldn't be there if I had put the heavy undercoating back on.

MG LaVerne

Feel your pain, Paul. The TD wasn't too bad, but my current MGA project has consumed hours and hours of time with a scraper and heat gun. Used a different blaster due to equipment issues at my normal shop who insisted he had never warped a panel in his life. That cost 500.00 and probably 40 to 60 hours of work to straighten the waves he created. So learn as much as you can about the shop's ability and track record with automotive sheet metal. The type of media can change the cost - almost anything is better than sand for minimizing damage. I have had the best results with walnut hull, but other medias have been used by others with good results. A chiller system on the compressed air will also help keep the warpage down. I did not blast the hood panels on the TD, but hand stripped and sanded to keep them from warping. Best of luck, Dan
Dan Craig

The engine side panels are new and naturally not going to the stripper, neither are the bonnet panels, mine were warped due to an engine fire long ago and I got a perfect set from Hugh Pite! I also bought a new grill from Hugh. One thing I learned about dealing with Hugh, if he gives you the condition of a piece before you buy it, you can write that in stone! If he says it's nice, you can bet your life it is! His prices are fair also.
Anyway, can't wait to get this stuff back and get cooking on getting this thing back on the road! PJ
Paul S Jennings

LaVerne, how did you seal up the fuel tank to keep the dirt out before stripping? I have no plugs that are the proper thread for the bottom holes. Think threading in a wooden dowel plug would work? PJ
Paul S Jennings

Used rubber expansion plugs on the fill hole and sender hole - the type sold as freeze plug replacements in the auto parts store. Twisted tapered rubber plugs from Lowes in the threaded outlets. Soft wood dowels should work well. Dan
Dan Craig

Thanks Dan, never thought of the expandable rubber plugs! I'm making a temporary plate for the fuel sender hole out of a cap for a jar, putting it on with the bottom facing out to hold tape and protect the screws as they are original. PJ
Paul S Jennings


Well, everything is ready but one thing to take to the media blaster! I know I got more than 10 pounds of undercoating off the car! Now I need to get a couple rubber plugs for the gas tank and all is ready. Have to empty my box trailer first and it's loaded. I'll be so glad to get this thing done and back in the shop! Things are progressing though. PJ

Paul S Jennings

PJ, could you drop me a line off-forum. Got a couple of questions for you. Thanks, Bud.
Bud Krueger

Will do Bud! PJ
Paul S Jennings

There's always a bump in the road! Have everything ready to get stripped and the enclosed trailer is full of stuff going to the auction house Friday. That kills another week! I have another trailer/car carrier, but being open, I don't want to take a bunch of sheet metal on it! What one won't do to keep happiness in the family! Grin. The miss's gets the proceeds from the auction! Need I say more. PJ
Paul S Jennings

PJ, Dan's cautionary note is well worth heeding! At the TF seminar I attended a couple of weeks ago we got to run our hands over what was once a perfectly good TF bonnet (Hood) before the media blasters got hold of it. It came back so warped it's almost a throwaway item. The highly experienced restorer concerned went to considerable pains beforehand to ensure that this wouldn't happen & he still got burnt! He swears now that he will never, ever have a panel media blasted again.
Good luck buddy!
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Sucsessful media blasting is all about the operator. He/she needs to choose the right media for the job, the right pressure, the right angle, the right distance and the right movement. Experience is everything.

MG LaVerne

LaVerne, You did disassemble the car in the photo before painting, right. (Off chassis)? PJ
Paul S Jennings

Yep...pieces went on and off several times for fitting..metal repair..etc

MG LaVerne

My wings are new old stock and surface rust was showing through. I had them bead blasted at a alloy wheel powder coaters. I don't know what it is like in the states but they are on every street corner in the UK. They made an excellent job but I wouldn't risk flat panels. They charged £25 per wing. A word of warning though get everything ready to give them a coat of primer as soon as you get them home and no way put them into an open truck if it is raining. They will be so clean they will start to rust immediately.


Jan T
J Targosz

I had a car soda blasted with good results some years ago. It won't remove rust and old bondo, but it is nearly impossible to warp anything with it.
David Littlefield

You're right LaVerne. You just want to hope that the guy you do have complete faith in isn't sick that day or hasn't moved on. That's what happened to our restorer! Experience is really just another name for finally getting it right, but at whose expense? If the guru isn't there is the boss going to let the unit sit idle? I think not. Before you know it the apprentice is blasting away! A thoroughly rinsed chemical clean is the only way to go IMHO. If you're not happy with the end result you can always do it again. No damage done. Just make sure it IS thoroughly rinsed. Beats throwing an expensive panel away. But to each his own. Lets hope PJ gets lucky. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Well guys, From all the feed back, which I appreciate very much, I've decided to only send the fenders, running boards and fuel tank to the blasters! I'll strip the doors and tub my self! I use a commercial stripper and it'll lift 2 layers of paint in 15 minutes. I just didn't want to go that route, but I value the car more than my time. Need the fenders and R boards blasted to get what's left of the undercoating residue off the under side. The car will "NOT" be undercoated! Thanks for all your input and suggestions, they helped me decide what to do. PJ
Paul S Jennings

This thread was discussed between 05/04/2014 and 09/04/2014

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