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MG TD TF 1500 - Modified clutch linkage

This is a fully adjustable linkage that I made up to eliminate the bending rod problem and I am currently testing it on my TD. It is made up using stainless steel turnbuckles, rods and nuts. (It is far from easy to make threads on stainless steel rods!). Two brass bushes are turned to fit the original lever. This seats the rose joint via an Allen bolt and nyloc. The photo shows the new hole location for the Mike O’Connor mod which really smoothens the clutch operation. The whole arrangement fits quite nicely. Fine adjustment is via the turnbuckles. Although it probably not the cheapest solution it should last forever and minimize the risk of breakage. I am considering making up some kits.
Regards
Declan

D Burns

Declan - You have e-mail. Cheers - Dave
D W DuBois

Very Pretty...

Blair
Blair Weiss

Declan,

Very pretty job. Congratulations. Consider me a candidate for one of your products.

I too, have designed a similar system using where possible, standard, off-the-shelf parts to keep the costs to a minimum. I will be happy to post my drawings if it is of interest to anyone.

The spherical joints I used were of the sealed variety, thus eliminating the need for a dust boot.

The turnbuckles are of commercial grade and galvanized, and cost typically in the €4-5 range each, of the type used by sailors. They can be tightened easily with a screwdriver in the opening. I would suggest that this feature alone, would save machining and the inherent costs, and still be relatively rust-proof.;

Another important element, is the Lever. I agree that moving the fulcrum point is necessary and I gave a lot of thought to making something fancy, but abandoned it because I knew I just didn’t have these skills. However, I did include a small sealed needle bearing on the stub (on the sump), and this necessitated a wider lever, but that’s OK as there’s a lot of space.

I tried to minimize any special machining, and not to criticise your wonderful effort, I wanted to use standard parts wherever possible, keeping the cost down, and making it possible to produce quickly.

However, in actual fact, I have neither the skills nor the tools to bring my project to fruition and it lies dormant to this day. Unfortunately as I write, I am having to be very careful engaging and changing gears, as my whole clutch linkage is about to become history. So I am going to have to make some decisions before the summer is over, if not sooner!

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.

Gordon A Clark

Thanks for all the nice comments!
Dave-thanks for the mail-quit interesting.
Gord,
Yes they are all off the shelf parts and the stainless steel turnbuckle is from the yachting dept.
Funny you should mention the lever. You must have read my mind. I have a prototype machined from aluminium bar stock on my bench with a replaceable bearing as I write. Photos to follow soon.

Regards
Declan
D Burns

Finally the clutch linkage gets built the way it should have been built 60 years ago ;-). Someone needs to sneak this into the Moss catalogue and their drawings so that it becomes the de-facto standard...

Best Regards
Mike
Mike Fritsch

Gordie
If you need any machining for your clutch linkage job just give me a call. I can probably help get it together.
T W Moore

Declan

That looks a good.

You might also consider replacing the fork connection to the clutch operating lever with another rose joint.
I had an appreciable amount of wear (and hence lost motion) in the forks and levers at both ends of the clutch operating rod. I replaced the link with a turnbuckle fitted with rose bearings at each end instead of the forks and clevis pins. This removed all the play in that part of the mechanism and works well. There is not much clearance for the 6mm rose bearing at the clutch operating lever end of the link but this is only a difficulty in fitting, not with operation.

My clutch is cable operated and without the Mike O’Connor modification.

Turnbuckle and rose joints from McGill Motorsport. www.mcgillmotorsport.com/

Dave


Dave Williams (TD10254)

Thanks Dave,
I will take a closer look at it. I used 8mm stainless steel rod and 8mm rose joints and bolts at the front. I'll check the clearance around the clutch lever. I bought the dust boots from Mc Gill. Did you use 6mm rod?
Regards
Declan
D Burns

Declan
You have mail.
Dave
Dave Williams (TD10254)

Dave,
I too prefer rose Joints as you can eliminate play. I managed to source a thin rose joint to fit in the pedal box and installed it yesterday. It works a treat.
Regards
Declan.

D Burns

Front view. Top link going on next.
Declan

D Burns

Hi Declan,
where you have the tie-wrap in photo 1 is the slot for the clutch overthrow stop. Without this you can put excess thrust on the crankshaft.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

Thanks Ray,
Is there something missing? If yes what does it look like?
Declan
D Burns

See http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/Clutch_stop.htm Bud
Bud Krueger

Ray,
I think I found what you mean.
http://www.ttalk.info/Pedal-Shaft-4.pdf
It states that this was not fitted on cars prior to TD22251. Mine is TD21284. Is there a part available and how is it installed- ...welded? Strange that mine has the large 52mm hole on the underneath and what looks to be the fitting for the clutch stop which a previous owner possibly omitted as well as the cover for the pedal box which is also missing.
Thanks
Declan
D Burns

Hi Declan,
it looks as thought your TD had a cable originally and was modified to take the rod system. Somebody has lost the stop in the meantime.
Buds link gives you all the info you need.
The pedal does not need to go to the floor only enough to release the drive plate. If you check your driving you only put the clutch fully down on take off, after you only dab it.
Ray TF2884
Ray Lee

This thread was discussed between 11/08/2014 and 29/08/2014

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