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MG TD TF 1500 - Neeed some help with a replacement rear wheel cyli
| I have a car here with one of the low dollar replacement wheel cylinders in need of a seal kit. The Moss kit is made for the original type pistons...which this is not.  Anybody had a go at one of these yet and if so where did you get the seals? Thanks   | 
| MG LaVerne | 
| Mate I dont know if the same modus operatum is used in the States. Here in Aus the major brake and clutch specialists carry a range of service kits for brake system components. I would measure the bore of your wheel cylinder, they are usually a standard imperial measurement size. Then contact a specialist and request whether they can supply cups for that size cylinder. Graeme | 
| G Evans | 
| Do you have any original pistons laying around? Then you could use any 7/8" cup. I think I have some in my attic, could look late today or tomorrow if you want. George | 
| George Butz | 
| The days of clutch and brake shops here are long gone. Last one closed up over 30 years ago. I do have a hydraulic shop not far from me I may have a vist with today. I have a couple of old original cylinders. I have one apart except for the piston which has been soaking overnight in WD 40. I'm going to see if I can get it out this morning but I don't have high hopes for that or that the piston will be useable if I do.   | 
| MG LaVerne | 
| LaVerne I have a couple of brake cylinders that are apart from an MGA. You can have them if you want. rgt3000 at fuse dot net | 
| Rick | 
| Try screwing a grease fitting into the cylinder, heating it up and giving it a few pumps with a grease gun. That will work if anything will. | 
| George Butz | 
| Thanks guys, I'll see how it goes. I tried the grease gun trick on the ones from my TF years ago. It didn't work as there were really ugly. I did get one apart by boiling it in water for about a half hour. Total trash. | 
| MG LaVerne | 
| I'm pretty sure I've got some old TD pistons laying around if no one else comes up with one for you. | 
| David Littlefield | 
| No seals, but I have a brand new Raybestos cylinder in my spares box. I could let it go to the cause. Tom '54 TF | 
| T Norby | 
| LaVern A bit if heat is your friend. The body of the cylinder is aluminum. The piston is steel. Aluminum expands much faster. Just heat with a propane torch and the cylinder should be free quickly. I did mine that way some (many) years ago. Jim B. | 
| JA Benjamin | 
| Photo of the cylinder. Tom   | 
| T Norby | 
| LaVerne, I've found that 50/50 ATF and acetone works on corrosion as well as rust. Gene | 
| Gene Gillam | 
| Thanks all, got the old piston out, cleaned it up, and installed it with the new seal. So far, so good. | 
| MG LaVerne | 
| For future reference should someone look this up. Original lever on top   | 
| MG LaVerne | 
| There is a reason for that notch in the original...it acts as a stop   | 
| MG LaVerne | 
| comparison of the hand brake pistons. The mask is torn off the original   | 
| MG LaVerne | 
| A comparison of the pistons.  Moss does not carry a kit for the non original upper unit   | 
| MG LaVerne | 
| Difference in the bodies.  Original unit is the closest   | 
| MG LaVerne | 
| Although the holes line up..there is a difference in the geometry as shown   | 
| MG LaVerne | 
| Another shot of the bodies   | 
| MG LaVerne | 
| Last one... this shows the different range of motion the other direction.   | 
| MG LaVerne | 
| Thanks LaVerne, those are very interesting and useful comparisons. I would not have expected that much of a change, or am I just being my usual naive self. Much to learn it appears. Good thing that some of you guys still have some of the original part around. | 
| John Brickell | 
This thread was discussed between 23/10/2015 and 24/10/2015
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