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MG TD TF 1500 - New Moss top installation question

I am installing the top (hood) on my October 52 TD. It has the 3 bow frame and I ordered a complete top kit from Moss many years ago. The instructions supplied by Moss are a little sketchy and the 4 illustrations of little help in this one area.

My question is about the following quote in the instructions. "Final step will be installation of both machine screws in the rear bow. An awl will assist in putting a hole through the top strap and top cover. This hole, by the way, is drilled at quite an angle which can be deceiving to you. To prevent tear-out this screw MUST go through seam joining top deck with rear curtain. before committing yourself to punching these two holes, a pair of screws pushed up from the backside of the top material will tell you if the locations are equal distance of the side seams running front to back where the top deck joins the side valances."

Does this mean the rear bow gets machine screws (with nuts) throgh the straps and the top? I would assume then this hole would go through the top under the apron or flap that is sewn across the top at the rear bow contact area?

My rear bow does actually have holes completely through it (top and bottom surface) and ever so slightly larger diameter than the other bow strap anchor holes. The other 2 bows only have holes in the top surface. The PO had used bolts to hold webbing type straps that the old replacement top had. These bolts did not go through the top material.
AC Davis

Well, I managed to do mine a few years ago, so it is doable. Remembering the details, not so much! I'm sure someone will chime in, but if you wanna drive it up here I'll be glad to help! Dave's web site has great pictures as you probably know!
Ed
efh Haskell

The screws you are talking about are nearly worthless for any thing except pulling the fabric completely away from the sticks when folding. I did screw the top straps to the bar, but I left the top free.

But yes, the screw goes through from the outside, through the top at the rear seam, then through the top strap, into the bow. Since I did not install them, I'm not sure about machine screws and nuts, but it seems logical.

I also used button snaps on the rear tub attacment so the hood could be pulled away to assist in loading the rear compartment.

And thanks for the kind comment about my site, Ed.

Warmly,
Dave
Dave Braun

AC
I took a look at my TD's 3 bow hood and the rear bow does have the screws in it through to the outside. I presume this is to help prevent the rear window from getting folded and splitting. It being supported it in the frame formed by the back of the car and the rear most bow. The other hood frames do not have the hood attached. As is apparent if you look at the instructions on how to fold the hood in the owner’s manual. The hood fabric from forward of the rear bow is pulled away from the hood frame allowing it to fold down without fabric between it. So it becomes as small as possible.
Hope this helps

Rod


Rod Jones

Thanks so much Ed, Dave and Rod for giving me the advice I needed here. Dave, I've spent hours on your excellent site from degreasing and rebuilding my chassis right through to installing the upholstery and top. Rod, thanks for the picture of how your top is attached to the rear bow. That squares up completely with the Moss instructions. I just had it in my mind that the screw would be under the little flap at the rear bow and not visable, but it is impossible to go through the seam between the rear fabric panel and the top fabric panel and still be under the flap.

So, machine screws do go all the way through the rear bow like the Moss instructions called for and the holes in the bottom surface of my rear bow are original to the car. I can see where this keeps the rear bow registered at the same location on the top fabric every time the top is put up and down.

Thanks again,
Allyn



AC Davis

Thanks for the kind words about my website, Allyn.

The point I was making about attaching the straps only to the top bow is that it positions the top bow properly each and every time, but allows the fabric of the top to be pulled away completely from the sticks, making folding much easier and preventing the top from getting caught in the scissor action of the top. Simply pull the top fabric back as you fold the front bow.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

Afraid I would never punch a hole thru my top to secure it to the bow. As per Davids suggestion you only need to secure the straps to the bow and place a chaffing strip over the head of the securing bolt to prevent it rubbing a hole thru the top.

I in actual fact applied adhesive backed chaffing strips to the full length of the bows to protect the hood fabric. They dont interfere with the folding action of the hood, the "Concourse Police" would not be happy.

Graeme
G Evans

The machine screws in question on my TD (2 bow top frame) are machine screws that are threaded into the bow directly with no nuts used on the inside as the bow itself is threaded. A little blue locktite in this area is good.
C.R. Tyrell

In the end I followed the Moss instructions and installed the machine screws and finishing washers. Dave, I understand your thinking about folding without the fabric being attached and you reasons for using snaps at the back rail. There are many thoughts out there about what is best and what ceertain objectives are and I can see merit in all of them. I permanently attached my top at the back rail with the Moss screw kit that has the very nice finishing washers that have no sharp outer edge to pierce the fabric over time. I used the same finishing washers on my rear bow attachment. For better or worse mine is installed per the instructions Moss provided which I assume mirror the original installations at the factory. (At least I hope that is the case.)

AC Davis

Hi AC,
Your finished hood looks superb well done.
I know I'm a bit late for this thread and a happy conclusion has been reached but has anybody else got a hole through their front bow as per the rear bow on a two-bow hood?
CJ Harvey

Here's the picture ... I think the original hood I removed had a nut and bolt going through the webbing with an extra piece of webbing to cushion the bolt head from rubbing a hole through the inside of the hood, anybody know if this was original?



CJ Harvey

CJ,
I think you are right.
I don't have a 2 bow hood but what you say seems perfectly reasonable. A screw in the hole through the webbing of the front bow would help position the frame correctly every time the hood went up, The fact it does not go through the hood fabric on the front also would seem right as 1, you don't want holes in the hood peroid and 2, when you fold the hood down the fabric needs to be remove from between the bows to get it to fold down as small and close as possible. If nothing else than to allow the toneau to fit over it.
Looking at the WSM pictures, it would seems they show a 2 bow hood and from the amount of material pulled out to be folded to the rear in picture No2. It is obviously not attached to the front hood bow.
Cause, like in many things, I could well be wrong.

Mr Davis,
Nice job on the hood install BTW.

Rod.




Rod Jones

Allyn,

Looks very sharp. Nice job!

Warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

This thread was discussed between 13/09/2014 and 17/09/2014

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