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MG TD TF 1500 - Oil Cap Gasket replacement

Anyone figured out a way to replace the gasket on the oil cap for the TD? Mine deteriorated and does not seal well.

The gasket is under the cap fastener and is held in by the pull handle on the top. This was flattened like a rivet and to get the gasket out, I would need to drill it.

I have a replacement cap, but would like to see if I can replace the gasket and use the original if possible.
Bruce Cunha

Bruce I replaced mine a few years back using some of the large cork gasket under the engine side plate that I'd previously replaced. I just cut it to size and don't recall having any issues in fitting it, apart from being a bit fiddly. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Bruce,

I cut a ring of gasket material that sealed the oil cap on my TF pretty well. Here is a post that I wrote on another MG site:

I cut a ring of gasket material that sealed the oil cap on my TF pretty well. The gasket is 1/32" paper gasket material. May have been FelPro #3157 rubber-fiber material(?) 1/16" cork may be too thick.

The "O" is pretty narrow. Fits between the lip of the cap and the locking fingers. Has to be trimmed just right to keep from splitting.

Lonnie
TF7211

LM Cook

After your post, I thought about it.
I was changing over some wall switches to WiFi enabled ones, but it stuck in my mind.

So after taking my wife out to dinner,I just went down to the garage, (Garage under house), and looked.
I have no gasket at all, either?

Well;

Do we need one?

The hose from the valve cover to the air filter should scavenge the vapors. Is there an issue with oil splashing? Perhaps.

What should go there? a rubber disc?

The knob that the chain is secured to is peened over, underneath, on top of a washer.

I would (perhaps will) remove the peening. (hold cover in 3 jaw chuck (6 jaw would be better), on lathe, drill out peening, as shallow as possible. If needed clean knob and super glue to oil cover so it does not turn while remove peen.

Hold knob in collet on lathe. (collets don't leave marks.)
Drill and tap. (Perhaps 10-32 (that looks like, and is very close to, BA-2, or if needed, 6-32, 8-32 don't know yet)

Insert new rubber disc.
Use oil proof rubber.

Locktite in new screw. Use pan head screw.
Use Green Locktite, Its very permanent

Clean/degrease hole and screw.Befor applying. Gerrn Locktite needs to cure overnight.

(We don't a need screw inside the valve chamber.

Perhaps soldering screw in Knob would be better.

If so drill hole in the side of the knob where the tapped treads are, to allow solder to flow into chamber.

Drilling side hole is best done on lathe.

OR

AS
03-058A Original Style $25.99
or 03-058 Replacement $11.86 (Looks like hell, just plain). I ordered one of the Original style ones. I will let you know how it looks.

Jim B.


JA Benjamin

Sounds like some great solutions. Jim. Threading the pull knob may be a viable solution.

I did find that I got oil out of the cap without the seal.
Bruce Cunha

Use every precaution mentioned to prevent the new screw from ever vibrating out and depositing itself into the engine. Regards, Tom
tm peterson

IMHO it would be silly to drill and take the cap apart. Pick your gasket material (paper, cardboard, cork, oil proof rubber, leather or whatever), make a paper or thin cardboard template, and cut to fit. It has to slip over the central round portion, then tuck up under the outer lip/edge of the cap. The central knob should click and lock down, holding the cap down tightly. No more leaks. The sealing surface only the area the lip of the valve cover touches, so it is pointless to have a full coverage gasket under the central part. George
George Butz III

Listen to George, guys. That knob on the top isn't just a handle. It's an integral part of a locking system.You put the cap on and them push the knob down until it clicks into place. A relatively simple gasket is all that's needed. Bud
Bud Krueger

Bruce and Jim
I bought a new "original style" cap last year. Looks lovely in brass finish. But, it leaked like hell.
Now I am back with my original cap with original gasket. Has lovely "patina" and does NOT leak.

Tom
'54 TF
T Norby


When I looked at my cap, I thought I saw the remains of old gasket material under the locking fingers.
Perhaps it was just dirt?
(see picture. Notice fingers don't look exactly centered.
Anyway that was why I suggested disassembling the cap.

I went down and looked again.
I have a large kit of o-rings. I found one labeled 222.
It measures 1.5" ID and is 0.140" thick. I was able to slip it over the fingers.

(see picture on next post)

With some effort, Pushing down on the knob, with some effort, as suggested, thanks Bud, it locked into place.

I will see how this runs when I take the car out. That wont be next week. We are do for rain every day.

Jim B.


JA Benjamin


Picture showing o-ring in place.

Jim B.

JA Benjamin

I will try the O ring and if that does not seal, cutting some rubber gasket material just a bit smaller than the inner clip.

I have a spare cap, so if those do not work, I will work on a way of getting the handle out and securing it back.

While I don't fully disagree George, I am trying to bring things back as close as I can to factory. That is part of the fun of this restoration.
Bruce Cunha

This thread was discussed between 21/07/2018 and 23/07/2018

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