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MG TD TF 1500 - Oil leakage from rear end

To reduce the symptoms of oil leakage from the rear end of the crank shaft- i.e. oil spill - I made as many others, a small cup, about 50 x 50 m.m. and fixed it with the lower bolt of the bell housing. It has worked well, however, a drain plug should have been fitted. A self tapping screw with a rubber seal would do the job.

YS Strom

I thought for a moment I signed on to the wrong forum, then I realized you meant your car's rear end....
J Cosin

YS,
Here's my version. Drain tap and level indicator.
A sponge on the inside acts as a baffle.
Regards
Declan

D Burns

YS,
Here is a drip pan some of us purchased from a fellow on this forum. (I don't believe there are any more available.) I believe I put the backstop on myself.

Declan's drain tap is more efficient. Mine will leave at least a 1/4 inch of oil in the bottom. His does however protrude out the bottom and is subject to "possible" damage.

See next posting for some modifications.

Mort

Mort 50 TD

I have added some hose barbs. The level indicator came idea came from Declan on an old posting.
I also have a line running to the bottom of my distributor. Another I am experimenting with to get oil from the starter motor hole.
Mort

Mort 50 TD

Good God Mort.
That look like an artificial heart.....
Puts a new meaning to the "Triple bypass"....

:)
R D Jones

Whatever works!
Mort 50 TD

Here's a thread about them...including an email address and phone number for Joe McGinnis who makes (made?) them:

http://www2.mg-cars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&access=&mode=archiveth&subject=8&subjectar=8&thread=2012032202351329041

Gene Gillam

Great idea and execution of "level gauge"!! Will have to add to the winter list!
Randy
R Biallas

Does anyone have any modifications for those of us with a ribbed oil/oel sump? I have the one made by Joe but I was reluctant to try to move the cotter pin arrangement. I finally cut the front from the pan and added a thinner sheet metal (sealed for leaks). My thinking was to fit the thinner sheet metal just forward of the existing cotter pin so all oil would leak into the pan and not drip from the front of the pan. The biggest problem was getting the cotter pin aligned horizontally while installing the pan so it didn't catch on the front of the pan (very little clearance). My solution was to used thin wire around the 'arms' of the cotter pin to align it properly while installing the pan.
While my arrangement seems to work OK perhaps someone has a better solution?

Larry
LD Kanaster

I wonder if it would be possible to drill a hole, high up in the sump and fit a small pipe from the bell housing drain hole to this? But I suppose the oil would be dirty. Another solution would be to pipe the oil to a small hole in the exhaust pipe but someone following would think you were driving a Volkswagen not a MG.


Cheers

Jan T
J Targosz

Larry,

I removed the ribs from the front of my oil pan...can't tell it from a side view and the drip pan covers the removed part. I can't see that it's a problem...the cars are going to leak and the pan is always going to be there.

Gene



Gene Gillam

Larry,

I removed the ribs from the front of my oil pan...can't tell it from a side view and the drip pan covers the removed part. I don't see what that it's a problem...the cars are going to leak and the pan is always going to be there.

Gene



Gene Gillam

Gene-- Excellent idea. I think I just might try that.

Thank you--

Larry
LD Kanaster

You can remove the fins from the sump with it fitted insitu using a cutting disk on a 4 inch angle grinder, extreme care is required.
G Evans

Quote
J Targosz, Central, United Kingdom
I wonder if it would be possible to drill a hole, high up in the sump and fit a small pipe from the bell housing drain hole to this? But I suppose the oil would be dirty. Another solution would be to pipe the oil to a small hole in the exhaust pipe but someone following would think you were driving a Volkswagen not a MG.


Cheers

Jan T


Jan...
An interesting idea Jan. Next time I have the sump off I will try it.

Regards
Declan
D Burns

Early when the tub was off the chassis, I was going to make a drip tray as illustrated in these posts and it kinda got pushed aside, but after driving and breaking in the engine, I found I have no leaks. 120 mile trip showed no leaks when I pulled it in the garage last week. I lay a strip of paper towels on the floor just in case, but nothing showed up. Were these engines prone to leak when new? Do I have a rare one or did the rebuilder do such a good job that he eliminated the leak problem that normally shows up? It's an XPEG and I use Valvoline VR-1 20/50, if that makes any difference. Needless to say, I'm very happy with this engine. PJ
Paul161

Hi Paul,

I am pretty certain that rear oil leaks are a function of engine mileage. As the miles grow the crankshaft oil scroll wears and it is very difficult to stop leaks. It is possible to reset the aluminium housing but I don't think it works very well.

Jan T
J Targosz

Read in another thread that someone had connected the vent on the rocker cover with a hose to an adapter fitted to the inlet manifold, in order to get vacuum enough to stop leakage at the rear end of the engine. A restrictor dia. 1,7 mm. was recommended not to interfere too much with the carb settings.
I also read somewhere that a washer on the crank by centrifugal force ensured there would be no oil leakage at high rev. Is that correct?

However, with engine under load the exhaust passing the rings will be more than this arrangement can handle. There were a kind of pressure relief valve fitted to care for that, but it was quite large and looked a bit out of place. Therefore I have in mind fitting an adapter under the vent pipe from the push rods cover. In principle an elbow with a "hinged" plate with a sealing rubber surface, that will close at low speed and engine idling, i.e. at good vacuum after the carb. It will then open and release exhaust when engine is under load and pressure builds up in the crankcase. At speed and with the plate bigger than the elbow, the air flow will also lift the plate and release exhaust.

YS Strom

From the Y-Type register. Quite clever, really!
http://www.mgccyregister.co.uk/technical-information/miscellaneous/a-cheap-xpag-leak-fix/
They have it a bit turned around in the pictures, but not that hard to figure out.

N Tesla

N Tesla,
You really need a baffle in such a drip tray otherwise abrupt braking will cause an oil spillage. I use the sponge that is used for cleaning insects from your windscreen-see photo below. I never let the drip tray fill up and as soon as the level indicator shows about 1/4" ... 1/2" then I drain it. I have to be careful with the drain tap as there is not a lot of ground clearance and I have scraped it already a few times. Next time I'm underneath I will shorten it.

Regards
Declan

D Burns

This thread was discussed between 22/09/2015 and 04/10/2015

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