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MG TD TF 1500 - Oil pressure start

How do I achieve oil pressure on MG TD after sitting for 40 years.
TG Lawell

I only have experience with early pumps with remote oil filters. I take the oil pressure gauge line off, attach a rubber hose to it and a pump sprayer filled with oil to back prime the system when freshly rebuilt. I crack the fitting at the pump and when oil begins to seep through the copper seals I then cinch it back down and push more oil through sprayer for a another 10-20 seconds. Pull all the spark plugs reconnect the oil pressure gauge line (loosely) and spin the engine over on the starter. When oil begins to seep from the oil line connection, I can then tighten the line and reinstall the plugs. Start engine and verify oil pressure. I’ve never had to reprise the system at that point but if I did then repeat the steps.

In your case I would drain the oil, add oil to the crankcase up to the add mark, fill a fresh filter full of oil and do the procedure above. Once you have oil pressure you can top off the crankcase.

There is a plug on later pumps where you can fill the pump with oil to aid the priming of the pump. Some one else can better explain the later system

Bill Chasser
TD -4834
W A Chasser

First question - does the engine readily turn over with the starter? Can you turn it over by hand, with a crank? Bud
Bud Krueger

What Bill said, I second.

Just so happens, I'll be priming a fresh rebuild soon, but instead of a sprayer, it'll be a typical, used, gear lube quart bottle with the tapered cap, and I'll squeeze oil in through a banjo bolt hole at the back of the block or the primer hole at the pump. While pumping oil in, rolling it over backwards with a ratchet will help prime the pump and pickup. Also, when first pumping oil in, occasionally shoot a burst of compressed air in with an air gun to force it into tight bearing clearances throughout.

Is it a fresh rebuild or "preservation" startup?
Has everything else been overhauled/checked out?

The night before, pull the plugs and give generous shots of WD40 or other lubricant of choice into the cylinders. It'd be really nice to wet the cylinder walls, rings and piston lands. I like to pour oil over rocker assembly and down pushrods to cam followers, too. Don't want the parts spinning completely dry after all those years.

Maybe take off distributor cap and spray distributor internals with WD40, too.

If generator is attached, add some oil to the generator felt at rear lubricator and give tach drive a little shot of grease or disconnect it until you can give it your undivided attention.

I'd roll it over slowly with a ratchet or hand crank to confirm it rolls freely before hitting the starter.

If it is in the car, make sure to take it out of gear.

If supercharged, make sure blower oil is topped up.

Good luck and have fun!


JIM N

Jim is absolutely correct in his more thorough description. I use a pump sprayer to force the oil through the system and maintain oil in the passageways. Air pressure will push the oil volume through and you then have air in the system above the pump again. Jim and I just have differing approaches to the same end. And yes definitely pour oil down the pushrod holes to lube the cam and followers. With the plugs out you can also put the car in a high gear and push the car backwards to insure the pump has oil saturation and residual flowing back through the oil pick up tube. Just make sure when you spin the engine on the starter that you have oil seeping from the gauge line before you try to start up. That way you’ll know that the pump indeed has pulled oil up from the pan

Bill Chasser
TD-4834
W A Chasser

Hi Bill,

Thank you very much for your reply. I actually have done everything you described. However, I may not have tried long enough. Tom Lang was telling me that it can take up to 5 minutes to achieve pressure. I only did it for 30 to 40 seconds. To complicate things, one of the mounting bolts on the oil pump broke while I was tightening it. Luckily, I was able to get the remaining threads out without a problem. I am ordering new mounting bolts from Abingdon Spares. It must have had been stressed previously since I was using a small 7/16" opened end wrench to tighten the bolts. I probably put less than 10 lbs. of pressure on it when it broke. Once I get the new bolts I will reassemble and try again. Thanks again for your input.

Cheers, Terry
TG Lawell

Having done all of that, remove the rocker box cover and turn the engine over using the starting handle / crank until you can see oil seeping from the top of the rockers. Then, when you use the electric starter you will get pressure instantly - put the rocker cover back on first!
Dave H
Dave Hill

After spending a day trying to get oil pressure after an engine rebuild I took advice from a former posting on this site. I blocked off the breathers in the rocker cover and tappet chest and blew down the dip stick tube with a blow gun fixed to my compressor. A couple of blasts, a turn of the ignition switch, a pull of the starter and instant oil pressure.

Jan T
J Targosz

Terry if you do the steps outlined in my posts oil weepage should be present at the gauge fitting in the time you stated. If not then you didn’t allow enough time for the pump to fill with oil as the oil lines and galleys have been force feed with the spray pump. Using the spray pump will also feed oil to the rocker shaft as well.

Since you are now replacing the bolts and will need to rock or lift the engine to install the bolts pull the cover off and inspe its face for wear. If present, you can use a flat plate with oiled wet a dry sand paper to resurfaced the plate until smooth. Use progressive grits. I finish with 600-800grit. Inspect the gears for wear as well. I’m not sure which pump you have but if the oil filter is the early remote type it would be prudent to replace the bypass spring and check ball assembly along with the pump to block gaskets. Before installing the cover plate pack the pump with Vasoline and install the gears this will also aid the priming sequence Check the WSM for the recommended torque on the pump cover bolts. They don’t require a heavy hand as you found out. The bolts have several lengths so it is important to get them oriented correctly. I use a very small amount of red silicone on the bolt threads and on the copper washers on the pump side after installing the washers on the bolts to insure a leak free pump installation. The gasket I leave dry as well as the cover plate to pump. I don’t want excess silicone being sucked into the system.

If you need more timely help you can PM me with your number and we can talk directly. I just went through this procedure several weeks ago in starting TD/c-8151

Bill Chasser
TD-4834
W A Chasser

Had great problem with this after a total renovation. Priming didn´t help, but after priming and turning the engine a few revs anti clock wise to fill the pump, I had full pressure immediately.
YS Strom

I would not use WD-40 as a lubricant. It was developed as an anti-flash rust formula, which it does well. As a lubricant it gets gummy in short order. Regards, Tom
tm peterson

This thread was discussed between 27/02/2018 and 03/03/2018

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