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MG TD TF 1500 - Ominous Engine Rattle - Part II
Subtitle: Installing the head Author's note: "Gawd I hope this is a short thread with a happy ending." Got the head back from the machine shop this afternoon (new valve guides and umbrellas but everything else checked out). Allthe gaskets from LBC arrived yesterday and Tom's Roadster Gaskets and thermostat housing arrived last week Soooo, Tomorrow's Show Time!! My sister (retired master electrician used to lifting things) will arrive tomorrow to assist in levitating the head to the block. Regarding the head gasket the Workshop Manual says "It is not necessary to use jointing compound for the gasket, but it may with advantage be smeared with grease" so that's what I'll do. The WSM also says to reconnect the intake manifold with the carburetors attached but mine are still in rehab so I plan on hooking up the manifolds without the carbs and then attaching them when they come home. I'm sure I'll have another thousand questions so it's great to know that y'all are there. For instance, are there any published or consensus values for torquing the rocker tower bolts? Should the torque for the little bolts and the big bolts be the same? Also, the block is empty of oil. The distributor is also in rehab. I suppose that if I put oil in the block it will all (or at least some) run out the distributor hole. So, should I give each valve stem is little shot of oil to pre-lube them until the engine oil arrives? Although they are still quite oily, should I also give each tappet a shot of oil before putting the tappet cover back on? Wish me luck. Jud, TD 25009, XPAG/TD2/25404 |
J K Chapin |
Jud - "are there any published or consensus values for torquing the rocker tower bolts? Should the torque for the little bolts and the big bolts be the same?" See the chart, Torque Values for TD and TF Fasteners for the proper torque levels. As for the last part of your question, if you torque the 8 mm tower bolt to the same level as the 10 mm tower bolt it will get exceedingly narrow in the center just before it finally ending up as two pieces - don't ask how I found that to be true :-). Cheers - Dave |
D W DuBois |
Make absolutely sure you have the spacers located within the rocker brackets, or the bracket can break! Go to Moss if you have any questions http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32714 "should I give each valve stem is little shot of oil to pre-lube them until the engine oil?" ...can't hurt "should I also give each tappet a shot of oil before putting the tappet cover back on?" Don't waste your time (and possibly a gasket) yanking the tappet cover off the side. Considering cars lay up all winter and don't get prelubed in spring, so there shouldn't be any risk firing it up for such a short layover. Having said that, if the valve cover is off and fresh oil goes in, I pour it all over the rockers and down each pushrod to hopefully provide all 8 lifters and hopefuly cam lobes get a share of the oil. |
JRN JIM |
Thanks Dave. I knew I'd seen that chart but couldn't remember where. Your site is in my favourites. Thanks Jim, I'll give each valve a little squirt before turning the engine with the hand crank. Jud |
J K Chapin |
Thanks Dave. I knew I'd seen that chart but couldn't remember where. Your site is in my favourites. Thanks Jim, I'll give each valve a little squirt before turning the engine with the hand crank. I also meant to ask, is a rod and pointer type torque wrench generally more accurate than a click type? I have both - a pretty good S&K rod and pointer and a cheap new HB click type. The HB click type is guaranteed to +/-4%. I bought it because (1) it was on sale for nearly nothing and (2) my rod and pointer wrench maxes out at 50 ft-lbs and I need 60 for the head nuts. Thanks. Jud |
J K Chapin |
Dang. Is there any way to edit a post during the first 5 minutes without double posting? Jud |
J K Chapin |
Usually when you click on update, it gets updated, and does not post a second time,, this is an update SPW |
Steve Wincze |
My update worked jus fine,,, |
Steve Wincze |
Jud my solution is to copy the original post that you're not happy with, delete it, paste the copied post into the "Your comment" box, edit it, then resubmit. I use engine lube, black gunk in a tube. My theory is if it's made of metal & moves against metal & you can reach it, lube it. I also wear thin rubber gloves because it says on the tube it's a carcinogen. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Peter, I've gone through the first box of gloves and am well into the the second box. I like the certainty of the copy and paste method and will use it. Thanks. Jud |
J K Chapin |
Say Dave, On the subject of torqueing the rocker tower bolts and a follow on from Jud’s question? When I put my rocker assy. back together last week. I used the figurers 10mm bolt to 43 Ft/lbs. and 8mm to 19 ft./lbs. The issue I ran into is with a micro adjuster type torque wrench. Trying to tighten the last pull to torque meant a lot of readjusting the wrench - using the cross/diagonal method of finishing the process. (Like you do with the Head bolts) Can you tighten all the 10m bolts (from the center out) to torque and then tighten the 8m bolts next, again from the center out. Without causing any undue stress in the head? OR is it safer to torque the bolts in the Cross/Diagonal method and just keep re adjusting the wrench for each pull. Rod. |
Rod Jones |
Interesting one, Rod. I don't recall ever attacking them as a system. I do torque each set (8 & 10mm)from the center out and seem to recall automatically doing the 10 mm ones first in three or four steps to the final torque followed by the 8 mm ones. Jud, you can check your beam wrench against the clicker by connecting the two together with a socket arrangement. Set the clicker to a value and twist it with the beam until it clicks. Watch the reading on the beam when it does. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
It was a good day's work. My sister arrived and the first thing we tackled was setting the head. I'd already put a thin (really thin) smear of grease on the top of the block and on both sides of the head gasket. I'd also assembled the radiator top hose, Tom's wonderful thermostate housing (more on that later) and the water outlet and fitted them to the radiator with the clamps loose. We lifted the head and slid id down the head studs and into place (don't know what the head weighs but when it's sitting on your fingernail it pinches quite noticably). We torqued it down to 60 ft-lbs in ten ft-lb increments. I should mention that I'd also permatexed Tom's Roadster gasket to the top of the head and let it cure over night. Next came the rocker assembly - quite a bear. Because the head has been shaved avout 0.030 it has the shims under the rocker towers. trying to get the tower bolts through the shims and into the head just wasn't working. I thought a dab a grease on each shim to hold them in place while lowering the assembly would work but it didn't. It finally dawned on me to put the shims on the bottoms of the rocker towers and hold them there with a dab of grease. That plus the fact that the small bolts fit quite tightly through the shim holes kind of also holding them in place during installation worked (Thanks Peter for one of my favorite new phrases) a treat and one they went. Thumb tightened the bolts and then started torquing. My sister prefers the click wrench so she used that and I used the beam (I knew there ase a proper name for it - not rod and pointer) wrench. We both went to 10 ft-lbs then I set hers at 20 and mine for the small bolts at 15. Then I took the small bolts to17 and she took the big bolts to 30. Lastly I went to 19 and she went to 43. We worked from the middle bolts to the outer bolts. I then checked all the bolts with the beam wrench and they checked at the proper (19 and 43) torque. Next we decided to tackle the cooling plumbing. That wye tube is a b!+ch to get on.but with a very thin smnear of Dawn detergent it finally slipped right into place. All that was left was to connect the bypass elbow to the thermostate housing. Oh! It was the worst of times, it was the best of times. Trying to get everything lined up I totally buggered Tom's stainless screws and the holes they go into. Twist as I might, those screws weren't going in (Tome, it was me, not you. I dry fitted those screws when your parts arrived and they screwed in perfectly). Dang! I tried thye screws from the old thermostate housing but their threads were much finer (BSF I'm guessing) so I threw up may hands and sent an email to Tom asking for the specs on the screws. We moved on the attaching the intake and exhaust manifolds . Straight forward and they cinched right up. After that I checked my email and there was one from Tom (What a gentleman and a scholar!!) telling me that the screws are 10-24 stainless and that he'd send new ones if I needed them. I said I'd let him know and started rummaging through my random collection of taps and dies. Lo and behold! I happened to have (for no reason that I can imagine, both a 10-24 tap and a 10-24 die. I chased the threads on the screws and in the holes and lined everything up and those babies screwed in as pretty as you please. Next we set the valve clearences to to 0.015 (I don't have the foggiest idea what cam I have to I split the difference between 0.019 and 0.012and I'll see how it sounds when it runs) and bent up and tapped into place the rocker tower polt keepers. We installed the valve cover and it began to look like an engine. All that was left was to install the tyappet chest cover (I'd permatexed Tom's Roaster gasket to the cover the day before). I'd noted that the stud hearest the firewall was odd so I'd ordered a new set from LBC. When I took out the existing stud I noticed that it had coarse threads (I'm guessing 10-24) whereas the proper studs have pretty fine threads. Apparently the DPO didn't wan't to pop for a proper replacement so he just got a double ended stud at the local hardware store and crammed it in. The internal threads are ruined so I had to stay with that piece of junk. Anyway, the tappet chect cover when on with moderate ease and I attached the vent pipe. All that left is the carburetors, the distributor and(I decided to make the conversion) the oil filter adapter. The adapeter is on its way from Bob Grunau and I haven't heard anything from Advance Distributors so I assume the distributor is in the pipeline. The carburetors are another story. I heard from Dave B and (not his words) my carburetors are oieces of cr@p. Nonetheless, he still thinks he can do his magic so I remain optimistic. Tomorrow is mowing grass and drining some well desreved beer. Jud ![]() |
J K Chapin |
The other side
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J K Chapin |
Jud It has been a real pleasure reading this tale. You have taken us through it all step by step and we all have been enthralled by it. On behalf of many of us - thank you |
Doctor Bob |
Thanks for the kind words Dr. Bob. Three steps to go: (1)install Bob Gruneau's oil filter adapter, (2) install refurbished carburetors from Dave Braun and (3) install refurbished distributor from Jeff at Advance Distributors. All on hold pending arrival of stuff. Staring at the engine compartment, drinking brewsis and puffing cigs is getting to me. The Euro Fest mountain drive and show is a week earlier than I had thought so it's really coming down to the wire. Thanks all for your support. Jud |
J K Chapin |
Aren't spark plugs very lightly torqued at like 10 ft-PBS or thereabouts? Thanks. Jud |
J K Chapin |
See http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/installation.asp 18 to 25 ft-lbs. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
Dang Bud. I thought I recognized that table from somewhere. It's on the back of the box that the plugs come in. Doh!! (pronounced "Dope Slap"). Thanks. Jud |
J K Chapin |
OK, I don't want to make a stupid mistake (I once carefully hooked up the ignition wires on my TR4A 1234) so please confirm: TDC for #1piston is when the pointer is on the mark and valves 1&2 are fully closed-right? Jeff tells me I'll have a distributor by Monday. Thanks. Jud |
J K Chapin |
Also, can I pre-fill the oil filter through the priming hole? I'll follow Bud's advice and saturate the filter (spin-on type) before installing it but can I get it fuller through that convenient hole? Thanks. Jud |
J K Chapin |
Jud, don't bother. Just put the oil in, including the filter, and turn over the engine, with the ignition off, until you see oil pressure on the gauge. That's it. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
KISS, works for me. Thanks. Jud |
J K Chapin |
Jud - Glad everything is going well. The engine in the TD of a member of our club has symptoms similar to yours. I sent him the link to your original thread. But now the link doesn't work because the thread has been archived. I searched the archives, but couldn't find it. > Do you (or anyone) have a link to the archived thread? > Do you know an exact phrase from the body of the thread that I can put into the Archive Search box? Your original thread and this follow up thread are really great. I'll save them in .pdf files when all is completed. Thanks for your help, Lonnie TF7211 |
LM Cook |
Well, it's crunch time. Here it is Wednesday evening and the upcountry winery driving tour is on Friday followed by the Euro Fest event at the BMW plant on Saturday. The Distributor is supposed to arrive from Jeff tomorrow but that still leaves the necessity of carburetors (Bob Gruneau's oil filter adapter arrived on Tueasdy and was a piece of cake to install using Bud's article). Turns out my carburetors were much sicker than I had hoped (but not really more than than I suspected) so they won't be back from rehab in time. On a whim I put out a call to one of my British car club members who drives a TD and is restoring a TA and a B and asked if he just hapened to have a spare pair of 1-1/4" SUs that I could borrow. By the George he did! A pair from the 1937 TA. I picked them up on Tuesday evening, sent an email to Dave to see if there was any chance that they would work. I received a positive reply so they went on today. The only problem is that the throttle linkage on the TA is about three inches closer to the firewall than on the TD. No way to get the TA uplink to connect to the TD throttle rod. Solution: Tie the bottom end of the TA uplink to the middle of the TD throttle rod with green garden twist-tie. You can just see it on the attached picture. If you zoom in you may be able to see a yellow arrow pointing to it. Works a treat. I wouldn't want to count on it to hold on a drive to California but I think it will hold for a While on Friday and for a couple of miles to the BMW plant and back on Saturday. Oops, I almost forgot to mention that the float bowl on the rear TA carburetor is on the front side necessitating a longer fuel line from the pump to the first banjo. The 19" line won't reach but I just happened to have an "L" fitting for another project and a bit of 5/16" fuel line so there is continuity from the pump to the first banjo. May not be the most efficient fuel delivery path but I'm hoping it will work. All that assumes, of course, that I get the distributor installed tomorrow and that the danged thing runs. I'm hoping but I'd not bet the farm on it. Send me good vibes. Jud ![]() |
J K Chapin |
So close! |
Gene Gillam |
Passing on some good vibes, Jud... and I'll even crack a beer for ya! :) |
Geoffrey M Baker |
IT RUNS!!! The distributor and new distributor cap arrived at about 12:30. We installed and static timed the distributor and I'd cobbled together a linkage for the enrichener (turnbuckle and chain - pictures later) and we put in oil and collant. I'd flooded the oil filter and I flooded the oil pump through the priming hole. It took quite a few spins but all of a sudden I was pumping oil out of the priming hole. Put the plug in and a couple of more spins and 45 lbs of oil pressure. It was time for the smoke and spark test. Turned the key and pulled the knob and everything turned wonderfully but no Vroom - Vroom. Did that for about 5 minutes when I remembered that I hadn't reconnected the ignition wire to the coil. Boy! Does that make a difference. It fired and ran but really horribly. I had no idea how the 1937 TA carburetors were set and didn't know how to adjust them if they needed it so I attacked the timing. I'd static timed to TDC so I advanced the timing. Big difference! Finally got it running well enough that it would idle at 1100 and checked the timing with a strobe - dead on 12 BTDC. I put a Unisin on the carbs and balanced them and we took it out. About 2 miles and water and steam just about blocked our ability to see out. Turns out the leak was from the back plate on the head. I'd swear that when I took it off it had the curved lip toward the head so that's how I put it back on - wrong-a-mondo. Water just streamed out. Took it back to the garage, removed and cleaned up the plate and the gasket (brand new) and put it back on with the curved lip away from the head. No leaks, no runs no errors. Put about 5 more miles on it and everything is holding. I've put about every tool I own in the boot and we're going to the mountains tomorrow morning. Please send more good vibes. Jud |
J K Chapin |
Great job, Jud! And just think of all you've learned by doing this all yourself... you've much to be proud of. Good luck on your journey. Vaya con Dios. -Kevin |
Kevin McLemore |
And, lot's of good vibes heading your way. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
Way to go Jud. You sister may be getting some marriage proposals after this thread! |
Gene Gillam |
So glad to see someone not overdo a repair. I fancy my TF as a driver and treat it that way as well. If I can get it back on the road with a suitable repair vs a full blown restoration, I try to go that route so I can spend more time driving (though I do enjoy wrenching). Though slightly off topic, a few pictures of the BMW plant would be cool to see. Enjoy the drive and safe travels! Alex |
Alex Waugh |
All the good vibes worked!! On Friday we drove a tad over 125 miles through the North Carolina mountains without a hitch or a burp. Due to the jury rigged linkage I can get only about 2/3 - 3/4 throttle so I was not the fastest up the Saluda Grade but I was able to hold my own and no one behind me complained too much (the Porsche 911s and the Lotus did scream around at the first opportunity and I was happy to see them disappear around the next bend). While getting it to run Thursday night I discovered that the old fuel lines leaked like a sponge so I replaced them with the new lines from my carburetors - right diameter and fittings but wrong length. Here's an updated picture with my fuel lines attached. Because we didn't finish up Thursday evening until about 9:30 pm, we did the mountain drive in hot-rod mode sans bonnet. Jud ![]() |
J K Chapin |
Way to go, Jud!! Bud |
Bud Krueger |
Saturday was the Euro show at the BMW assembly plant in Greer, SC, so Friday afternoon after the mountain drive my sister and I put the bonnet back on. This went easier that taking it off because (1) my sister held the bonnet in the proper position whole I drove the car under it and (2) we used an electric winch to hoist up the bonnet. The pisture is early Saturday before many cars were in place. My TD is the second car in. The first car (to my left) is a beautiful TC restored by George (didn't get the last name) from Atlanta. Within an hour that whole field was full of British cars. The TC rightfully won our class. Jud ![]() |
J K Chapin |
I don't think I'd have the nerve to take a newly rebuilt engine out on a 125 mile run the first time out! Very impressive and great work! |
Geoffrey M Baker |
Here's sort of a panorama of the BMW assembly plant. The round building is the Zentrum that houses a BMW musuem and visitors center. Lots of neat old BMW stuff to see. The Zentrum is actually more or less horseshoe shaped ovening to a reflecting pond in the front. Porsche was the featured marque this year so they had the prime location in front of the Zentrum. We were relegated to the backyard next to the beer and brauts vendors - turned out to be a pleasant banishment. Jud ![]() |
J K Chapin |
Great job, Jud! |
Gene Gillam |
I've got about 230 miles on it since I put the head back on. Am I supposed to now retorque the head bolts and then reset the valves? I set them at 0.015 and it sounds like a good running sewing machine. Should I stay with 0.15, go up to 0.019 (doubt it) or go down to 0.012? I have no idea what cam is in it. Thanks. Jud |
J K Chapin |
Forgot to ask: assuming I'm supposed to retorque, do I loosen and then retorque or just tighten them up? Thanks. Jud |
J K Chapin |
Just retorque. No need to loosen (nor is it a good idea) Alex |
Alex Waugh |
Wilco. Thanks. Jud |
J K Chapin |
This thread was discussed between 03/10/2014 and 22/10/2014
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