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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Original TD Ignition Switch

Anybody have an original TD Ignition Switch for sale? Not the one with the window. Operational would be preferred but condition is not important as long as it can be made to look like new. Email is pjbm at bigpond dot com.
Regards
Peter
TD 5801
P Hehir

Check with the Whitworth Shop- they advertise in the Sacred Octagon. I believe Craig Seabrook would be the contact there.
Jeff Delk

E-mail address for Whitworth Shop is seabrook@en.com Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

My late TD (July 1953) had an ignition switch with a window when I acquired it early in 1964. It may be that it had been replaced or that later cars had this feature.

I would welcome enlightenment, if anyone can give more precise details.

IanB
Ian Bowers

Ian. Check out the archive. There is some interesting stuff on about half a dozen threads on this question. It seems the switch with the window is an early replacement but appeared after the TD ceased production.
Peter
TD 5801
P Hehir

My TD has no window in the switch, it is a June 30 car.
-David
D. Sander

My TD has a replacement switch as well with the window but Craig was able to restore it without the window and it now looks original.

Regards,
Rich

Richard Taylor TD3983

I'm lost. What is a window in an ignition switch?

Gary
G Parker

Gary. The window is shown in the attached pic. David I'm intrigued by your June 30 car. What does that mean?
Peter
TD 5801

P Hehir

Peter,
oops! June 30, 1953 (manufactured date. Somehow I dropped 1953.
-David
D. Sander

Have the opportunity to purchase an original switch with a broken pointer. Can anyone tell me if this can be repaired so that the repair is invisible & how to go about it?
Peter
TD 5801

P Hehir

If it was the last switch in the world you could try using Bondo and carefully building up and filing the correct profile. You would then need to paint it with something that has a satin finish after priming it (especially the joint between the Bondo and the Bakelite). The good news is that there is no stress on the pointer so it should hold OK once sculptured.

Seems like a lot of work when I am sure that there are in tact knobs out there. Heck, someone would probably gladly trade you for a new window unit for a non working original. The body and working parts on the new units are identical. I just swapped my knob and bezel after refinishing and was good to go.
Chris Couper

I have used JB Weld successfully on Bakelite before. Wash the bond area with acetone first. Follow up with a satin black paint and it just might work.
-David
D. Sander

Have managed to buy an original intact operational switch from California with key. Just needs a new decal, spit & polish & maybe some rechroming. Thanks for your help.

Regards
Peter
TD 5801
P Hehir

A decal will come off, as it is exposed to the elements. Have it re-painted (stencilled) as original) by Craig Seabrook at The Whitworth Shop. Worth the money, as you will look at it constantly!

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

An excellent decal is available from Ton Schreurs of the Netherlands. He's at ton.schreurs(at)worldonline.nl Bud
Bud Krueger

I have a spare ( obtained from Tom Schreurs in NL )
If someone needs it ? You pay what I paid to Tom.

Cheers,

Gerard
Gerard Hengeveld

Hmmmm... Decal or stencil... Is it worth sending it all the way back to the land of the brave, having Craig relieve me of a wad, then having it sent back to Oz or maybe just going with the stencil. As Lew Palmer suggests maybe M.G. does stand for money gone?
Hmmmm...Stencil or decal?
Peter
TD 5801
P Hehir

FWIW, Holden in the UK sells reproductions of the original type switch:

http://www.holden.co.uk/

Direct link to the switch won't work, so you'll have to click through the catalog selections to find it. Their part number is 020.125.
David Littlefield

I guess it all depends on what you want for your car, what's important to you. It's exactly those small things that make me pleased when I look at them, as opposed to being annoyed every time I notice a peeling decal. The dash area on my cars is something I look at every time I drive, and I rather want it to be right. I care little whether the taillights are original Lucas or reproductions, or whether the voltage regulator cover is Lucas or Moss without Lucas. I've never shown a car in my life, and am not at all concerned whether the starter is date-appropriate or not.

But the lettering on a TC dash, or a proper switch with the right lettering (and without the window) does matter to me.

So make up your own stencil; buy a decal, or letter it by hand - it's all fine. These cars are meant to be enjoyed, so do what makes you happy - small or large. I'm happier driving a car with a 4.3 rear and Skyhook 5-speed than I would be at a car show, trying to get 100 points.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Hi Gerard. Email me off line if you will re price of Ton's decal. My address is shown on the first post above.
Cheers
Peter
TD 5801
P Hehir

The original 1952 ignition switch arrived from the States today. Looks good. The chrome bezel has polished up really well. The next step is to pull it apart (fingers crossed), give it a good clean, buff up the bakelite indicator, paint the face black & hopefully put it back together! Then I'll decide on whether to stencil or use the decal. I've emailed Ton & yet to hear from Gerard. Thank you all for your suggestions.
Regards
Peter
TD 5801
P Hehir

A few questions prior to pulling the ignition switch apart that I hope someone can help me with. I've checked the archive & have a few pics but just need a bit more info before I begin.

Is there supposed to be some sort of flat retaining ring as well as the clip on the back of the switch?
If so where I can get them?
Is the first step to unsolder the nut at the rear?
Does the bezel rotate about 1/2" to align with the holes & is it push in first & then rotate?
I seem to have a slight "intermediate" stop between S & H on the 1952 switch, is that correct?
If not maybe I should I use the back of my old window switch, which is very 3 position positive, with the front of the original?
The number on the original TD switch begins with FA. Sound about right for a 1951 TD?
As the FA numbered tumbler seems a little wobbly can that be made less so as I’d like to reuse it?
Should the decal have “Lucas” on it as well as “Off, S & H”?
I have a decal coming from Ton but if making a stencil what is the correct font & letter size or do I just assume Ton's decal is correct & copy that?
Is the black painted background semi gloss or full gloss?
Anybody have any instructions on how to strip & rebuild? Could you mention any common mistakes people make on disassembling/assembling the switch?

Any comments, tips & advice would be very much appreciated as I've heard it can't be done without three hands, extra string, strong alcohol & a lot of patience!

Thanks
Peter
TD 5801

P Hehir

To Peter Hehir, sorry for late reply I did not look at old posts lately. Your email adress ? Can't find as you discribed.

Gerard
Gerard Hengeveld

My address is as advised. I'm listed in the first post above. Right at the top of the thread. I have one coming from Ton. So I'm sorted. Thanks anyway Gerard. Cheers.
Peter
TD 5801
P Hehir

Here is my (early) 1952 ignition switch, as mounted on the dash, before removal. This shows how it was mounted. I dont recall taking it apart any further than this.

Jim B.

JA Benjamin

Thanks Jim. That helps.
Peter
TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter, I have a file of 50+ images showing the disassembly and reassembly of an ignition switch, taken by Patrick Earles. The file is 64MB. Too many to try to put on a web page. If you will send me your mailing address I'd be happy to copy the file onto a CD and send it to you. Bud
Bud Krueger

Thanks Bud. I also have some pics from Patrick Earles but only about ten or so. I could certainly use the CD. I'll email you my address.
Also got an email from Max Irvine who put me on to Totally T Type Issue 9 Dec 2011. This carries a two page article detailing the Lucas PLC2 switch disassembly/reassembly which I've now downloaded & printed. The author mentions all the parts by name such as the large SRBP washer & the mazak lock body cover with the expectation that the reader will know exactly what he's talking about! Yeah right..

I particularly like Step 8/. where he says "Should things not work out at this stage, break for coffee & start again"!... This is gunner be great!

Cheers
Peter
TD 5801
P Hehir

Fine, Peter, I'll await your email. At least he didn't use the classic..reassembly is just the reversal of disassembly... I love that one. Bud
Bud Krueger

On their way, Peter. Thanks, Patrick. Bud
Bud Krueger

This thread was discussed between 14/11/2013 and 03/12/2013

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