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MG TD TF 1500 - Paint - TF Frame Suggestions?
> What primer and top coat do you recommend for the frame on my TF? Actually not the entire frame at this point, just the gearbox cowl, drive shaft tunnel, and floor board supports, which I removed in prep to remove my gearbox. + I want to protect the parts with something that is not easily chipped off with age or during assembly. + I also want a reversible coating that the next owner will be able to remove for the next restoration. + Even though hidden, I want a period-correct look. + Don't want to powder coat. . The easiest for me is rattle can self etching primer, top coated with Rustoleum Satin Black. If necessary, I could epoxy prime the parts. Not sure how epoxy adheres to Ospho. The parts will be stripped/wire-brushed/blasted to the bare metal and wiped with Ospho to kill rust in the seams and any pits that I missed. They are in pretty good condition. The cowl and tunnel have deep rust pits on the horizontal parts under the floorboards. Looks like the parts were originally primed with red lead primer. Didn't test to see what topcoat was used. The previous owner undercoated most parts that were easily accessible. Kinda looks like truck bed liner. Thanks for your suggestions. Lonnie TF7211 |
LM Cook |
Lonnie, Others will chime in with good suggestions, but I will tell you what I use. Its very simple. Use a good quality Marine enamel. I brush it on, and it will flow out wonderfully. I usually use 3 - 4 coats. This paint takes longer to cure, but gives a good weather resistant coat that can be removed if need be and touched up if required. Most times it will dull with time to the Satin Black which is the colour of the frames originally. I have also found that it cleans well and is impervious to most degreasers and solvents when fully cured. Its easy clean-up if you make mistake and can be tapped, sanded, removed and re-done with no issues. It works for me. .... CR |
C.R. Tyrell |
When I took apart TF1414, the chassis parts with good surviving paint looked to me black semi-gloss. I painted with Rustoleum gloss with epoxy sprayed first on the metal. If it chips, this can be easily be repaired with small paint brush. |
Frank Cronin |
I used PPG DP-40 LF Epoxy Primer followed up with DCC Urathane black with some flattening agent to get the correct saten black. David |
D. Sander |
Eastwood Rust Encapsulant is available in brush or spray, looks just like flat black. Eastwood has several chassis black paints also, from flat to glossy, that can be applied over the ecapsulant.. Worth checking out. I've used their stuff with good results. They have a form of container that also sprays down inside hollow frame members. |
T W Moore |
Martin Senior "Tough Coat". 3 coats. PJ![]() |
Paul S Jennings |
The Eastwood Chassis Black Extreme works well. While not quite as durable as a two part or urethane, it is vastly better than the usual cheap rattle can paint. It dries very slowly, and is tough and resistant to fluids, etc. Easy to touch up also. George |
George Butz |
I forgot to mention, I painted the INSIDE of the frame with POR paint. I poured it in the holes in the back for the bumper and turned it side over side and end over end for 20 minutes. I taped up all the cracks and pin holes with duct tape. It had a lot of leaks! David |
D. Sander |
All good suggestions above,, But if you are only doing those few parts,,, I would suggest going with inexpensive rattle can Rustoleum ,,, SPW |
Steve Wincze |
This thread was discussed between 30/01/2015 and 31/01/2015
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