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MG TD TF 1500 - Pedal Box Brake Spring

While the gearbox is out of my TF, I'm inspecting some areas that I usually can't see. So I removed the access panel on the side of the pedal box and looked inside. I saw what I assume is a previous owner's fix to attach the brake return spring to the front of the pedal box. He attached the spring though the eye of a split pin that goes through a nut welded to the inside-front of the box. He probably then pulled the spring tight and spread the legs of the pin outside the box to secure it. I guess that it was done because he couldn't hook the spring to the original bracket. I don't know how long it's been like this. I've owned the car for a year and a half and the split pin hasn't failed. The spring looks fairly new.

> Is it OK to leave the spring attached to the split pin? I may have to leave it if I can't attach it to the bracket. What was the nut for? See photo below.

> Or, should I attach the brake return spring to the original bracket on the inside-front of the box? If so, any suggestions on how to hook it? The loop on the end of the spring is more than a full turn, so it is totally closed. Not much room inside to maneuver. It's gonna take an act of God for me to hook it to the bracket and then to hook it to the bottom of the brake pedal.

Thanks,

Lonnie
TF7211

image:
+ Top = Outside-front of pedal box: Split pin spread open.
+ Bottom = Inside-front of pedal box: Brake spring connected to eye of split pin. Original (?) bracket is left of split pin. Note: The brake spring is disconnected from bottom of brake pedal shaft.

LM Cook

I used exactly the same method - it makes it very easy to attach or remove the spring, even with the gearbox in place. This was necessary for me when adjusting the brake pedal clearance. As long as its a good sized split pin, it should stay in place.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Thanks Dave -

I'll stay with the split pin "fix".

Do you know what was originally connected to the nut that is welded inside the pedal box through which my split pin is inserted? My TF is LHD.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

There was no nut in my pedal box (just the one on the other end of the spanner!). I suspect its just there to help guide the split pin through the hole.
Dave H
Dave Hill

Lonnie. I did this a few months back when I replaced the cross shaft and bushings. I had the rims under all four tires to lift the car off the ground. Try as I might I couldn't get the spring in place with a pair of bent needle nose pliers as I couldn't get my arms where I needed them with the Trans in place. The race shop next store let me use their lift. We ended up removing the M/C and attached a piece of mig wire to one end of the spring. With the other anchored in the tab in the box we pulled the wire through the hole the M/C registered into and pull the wire and popped it into the peddle hole with little effort. Total time was 10 minutes including the brake bleeding. Vs two days of busted knuckles and colorful language

Regards

Bill Chasser jr
TD4834
W. A. Chasser Jr

The spring bracket was rusted away in my pedal box so I drilled a hole in the end of the box and used a shortened brake shoe steady pin with a hole drilled in the end of the pin. I hooked the spring to the pin first and then to the pedal eyelet. It was a pain in the butt but it looks almost factory.
Rich (TD 3983) Taylor

The spring bracket was rusted away in my pedal box so I drilled a hole in the end of the box and used a shortened brake shoe steady pin with a hole drilled in the end of the pin. I hooked the spring to the pin first and then to the pedal eyelet. It was a pain in the butt but it looks almost factory.
Rich (TD 3983) Taylor

This thread was discussed between 12/07/2015 and 13/07/2015

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