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MG TD TF 1500 - Planning ahead advice Please

Being new to the TF I am not really sure what parts I need to order but I need to order whatever is required to rebush my clutch and brake pedal, looking at the Brown and Gammonds parts diagram I get confused so can anyone help me out, my car is RHD.
Does one shaft accommodate both pedals?

Thanks

Regards


George
G Mills

George,
One shaft does both pedals,, usually just rebushing fixes the problem,,,Hopefully, you are doing this job while the car is apart???? And you have good acess to the pedal box??

SPW
STEVE WINCZE

George, I'm sure others will chime in on this subject, as it is one of the least enjoyable jobs you'll encounter on your car. As Steve said, it'll make the job much easier if the chassis is exposed, at least have the floor boards out. It's not complicated, it's just working in such a small confined area makes it a pain. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Geiorge,
I see where your confusion come from,,, On the B&G web site under Brakes, the brake pedal shaft is Item #20 and if you look under Clutch, the brake pedal shaft is item #28 !!

SPW
STEVE WINCZE

Thanks Fella's , floor boards are out, does look a bit finicky but can't see what the difficult part might be, undo linkage then
Shaft out through the Chassis, right? then replace bushes and reassemble??? sound right or am I missing something.
Can anyone give me a heads up on the Brown and Gammons part numbers I will need.

Thanks

Regards

George
G Mills

George,
actually, I have never done a RHD, but from the diagram, it looks like it might be a bit easier as you don't have to mess with the key and key way...it seems like both pedals rotate about the shaft, rather than on a LHD, where the shaft itself rotates,,
I don't know what is warn on your car, so I can't give you the part numbers the you need..
SPW
STEVE WINCZE

George,

Strong recommend you review the archives. Bud Krueger has a recent one detailing his experiences with a TD, plus there are many other great stories. No matter what you think it isn't fun on an assembled car...but the results are worth the effort. You also will find you will probably end up making some modifications to the clutch rod and lever if you have not do so already

bob
R Brown

http://www.ttalk.info/PedalShaftDelk.htm

When pedal shaft is removed , see figure 5 on the link above to modify to pedal shaft for improved grease lubrication.
Frank Cronin

RH drive is a doddle.Just remove clevis pins and circlips, drive out the pivot pin.Before you fit the new pin mark where the levers go, drill the pin down the centre, but not right through then cross drill for lubrication. Fit a grease nipple on the outside end.
Rebush the levers and ream to fit. Remember to have the pedals in place when refitting the pin.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

Mine is LHD but you might find my video on Youtube interesting. Search for "efhask pedal box" using Youtube's search feature. There are 2 videos.

As I remember I had to do it twice because the new shaft was too tight and required some reaming.
Ed
efh Haskell

Problem with a RHD is both pedals are bushed and turn on the shaft which is a rotating fit in the chassis. With a LHD the clutch pedal is keyed onto the shaft and actually turns this when the pedal is depressed. With the RHD the shaft is not turned positively by the pedals and can seize in the chassis. If this happens it can be an awful job to get the shaft out and you have to get it out to release the pedals. On my car which had been dry stored from 1965 until last year the shaft was immovable and eventually I had to drill it out. You don't need to find the exact center, just drill a small hole close to the edge of the shaft and then using progressively larger drills open the hole until it just touches the surface of the hole. I made up a new shaft, rather than buying one, and turned a waisted section where it fits in the chassis and also used a full tin of Copaslip when reassembling it! Hope yours isn't seized.

Jan T
J Targosz

Thank you all for your valuable input


Regards

george
G Mills

Removed the clutch rods to check the clevis pins and at the same time pushed on the pedal shaft to see if it was seized lucky I suppose shaft was movable with a heavy push by hand, the clutch rods don't seem right, pieces missing from the adjustment side of it and the piece that locates on to the sump seems worn in particular the section where the screw part of the rod goes through
wish I had a camera to take a pic and show you.


Regards


george
G Mills

I just did a RHD TD, and it is MUCh easier than a TD/.TF. Do drill and tap the shaft for oiling, and install a Zerk fitting.

This is indeed the time to check all the clutch mechanism parts for wear; you will never have a better time. A little wear is exponentially increased throughout the system and ends up as slop in the oedal, so check the clevis ends for elongation; some can be welded, others are easier replaced. Check the clevis pins themselves, and replace as needed. The pivot on the sump can only be changed by dropping the sum, unfortunately, but usually needs it. The clutch pivot arm has a replaceable bushing, and also can be modified (much in the archives about the O'Connor mod) to good advantage. Check the Moss catalog for a list of the various bits and pieces at the adjuster end; they frequently get lost or damaged.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Thanks Tom, I will heed your good advice.








Regards


George


G Mills

My TF had shafts fitted to both sides of the sump. I simply swapped them over. Looks like MG assembled engines to be interchangeable for LHD and RHD


Jan T
J Targosz

I have decided to make a new top clutch rod, mine looks like it has been bastardised over the years not a major job I don't think although I would like to know just how long the rod is minus the ends, anyone know

Thanks


george
G Mills

Cleaned out the clutch box, 3 x bolts, 6 x small washers, 3 x broken spring end bits and a brass thing that looks like a plane propeller about 1 1/4 inch long and has a female thread same size as the clutch rod, any clues as to what it may be.

Thanks

George
G Mills

I would have thought 3/8 rod would be too thin for this job, any advice on original rod size





Thanks


george
G Mills

George - my guess is that the propeller-thingy is the clutch dipstick inspection cover, fitting onto the metal transmission cover.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Hmmm, don't know mate will post a photo of it as soon as I can, have to get my own camera.




Regards

George
G Mills

Had a look Tom think your right there is a threaded stud coming up off the cover and it screws on.

thanks mate


Regards


George
G Mills

This thread was discussed between 25/04/2014 and 28/04/2014

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