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MG TD TF 1500 - Points and Capacitor

I took the TD out the other day and the idle was quite rough. It had not run for a few weeks wit the heat up here.

I decided to check the points. they were almost closed AND they had a very Large NIB almost sorting them out.

I ordered a new set from AS.

Now the old set had only been in there for 600 miles. Thats 34 years and 600 miles. I don't feel they should have had such a nib.

I seem to remember that having a capacitor (condenser) of the wrong value can cause this.
The one in there is the original style with an axial screw holding a slotted spring lead that nestles into the side screw along with the similar lead from the points. I hate to change it.

That along with the unreliability of newer capacitors.

Suggestions.

Should I increase or decrease capacitance.
I am also running a Sport Coil.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

For what its worth
I would give these guys a try.
Went to a lot of trouble to solve the capacitor issue.

No affiliation

http://www.distributordoctor.com/distributor_condensers.htm
Rod
Rod Jones

It is too bad that Jeff at AdvancedDistributors did away with his parts service. His points and condensers were well matched and worked great.
Bruce Cunha

Yes the capacitor (condenser) is the cause.You want the larger, longer commercial ones that the big box stores do not offer. Go to any auto parts store and purchase a Car Quest G120P or NAPA part #RR175. Make sure that is the longer full size with a good reputation! As for my self I have given up with the original distributor with all its issues and replaced it with a CSI ( Custom Sport (Ignition) distributor, the increase in performance compared to the re curved original is amazing! (As recommended by one of my Roller camshaft customers.)Result is that my Abingdon Performance Ltd. is now a CSI Ignition distributor dealer.Best Prices!
http://www.csi-ignition.nl/en/home.html
http://www.csi-ignition.nl/en/dealers/usa.html
Len Fanelli
Abingdon Performance Ltd.
Len Fanelli

Rob at British Vacuum Unit has the blue wire condensor that will work well.

Peter
P G Gilvarry

Len -
How did you mount the condenser in your distributor? Wire routing? Mounting tab on condenser to screw on breaker plate? Photos?

Thanks,

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

I had Rob at BVU make me a spare base plate setup, will snap you a photo when I can get into the workshop again.

Peter
P G Gilvarry

I contacted distributer doctor. I apparently have an "Early" distributer. No flexible wire. They have a replica. This Cap is soldered into the plate. They will supply a complete plate.

Working on details just now.

After seeing that the cap is more or less permanent I don't believe I have ever changed it. So it dates to at least 1966 if not 1952.

My engine # is 16052.Not original a later engine. I have Some evidence the original flywheel went west. But perhaps the distributer came from another engine.


Jim B.


JA Benjamin

Jim the condensers are all the same 23 -25 Micro farads.
Lonnie here is a photo and one of The CSI distributors
that I have in stock for T types.Positive ground, negative ground, normally aspirated & supercharged,
all with 16 programmable curves.
Testimonial from Robert Ress: I am REALLY happy with this! It seems to have woken the car up. Feels so much more powerful!
Len Fanelli
Abingdon Performance Ltd,




Len Fanelli

Just for future reference its 0.22 to 0.25 microFarad.

22 microFarads is a very large amount of capacitance.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

Thanks for the pic, Len.

I tried installing a Chevy condenser mounted like yours. The mounting collar is past the end of the condenser and didn't seem to grip securely. The wire is bent in a tight right angle.

So I use a condenser for a 1978 Plymouth Arrow. The mounting "ear" fits the breaker plate. Smaller diameter but the capacitance is the same.

Another board member posted a photo of a Chevy condenser mounted so that the wire attaches to the points from the other direction so that it isn't tightly bent. Seems like a good solution as long as it doesn't foul the spring on the points.

Lonnie
TF7211





LM Cook

Jim

Here's what I used. It's the BWD G102AP from Advance Auto. $5.89 plus tax (2015 price). Original is on the left in the first picture, the longer one is the replacement.

It's a tight fit but works. And it's locally available.

Stuart




S Grimm

Thank you Sturt, Len, and especially Rod.

I seem to have a very early distributer.

The condenser is NOT affixed with a screw, it is soldered in place. To use a condenser with a clamp I would need to either get a new plate or bugger up the existing one.
It just goes against my grain to bugger it up.

It is possible I MIGHT be able to solder in a newer condenser, but the new insulation is, most likely plastic and may not withstand the heat.

Distributer doctor knew just what I had and they do have a solution. They are making me up an older plate (sold on an exchange basis) with a proper looking condenser already assembled.

I suppose I could always get a newer distributer. The one I have, probably does not go with my motor, #16052 (a replacement).

So with the older distributer I probably have an original advance curve.
Should I upgrade the cams and springs. Is there any measurable improvement.
If so where to get them.

Jim B.


JA Benjamin

I'll second the recommendation for Martin at Distributor Doctor. He has the best points and condensers. Rob at British Vacuum Unit also sells good condensers, as mentioned above, with the blue wire.

On the early distributor you can still run the later condenser by drilling and threading a small hole in the plate. In fact I asked Martin which condenser was better, the large soldered one or the smaller screw-on type (since I already ran a smaller one on the early plate in my TC). He told me there is no difference, and if I had the means to mount the small one then he would recommend that. I've been running that in my TC for many happy miles now.

For any new guys reading this, just remember to grease the cam and re-adjust the points after a few hundred miles, once they have broken in. Taken care of, a set of points can last 40-50K miles with minimal adjustment.
Steve Simmons

Points plate as provided by Rob at BVU.

Spare condensers.

Peter

P G Gilvarry

This thread was discussed between 30/07/2020 and 04/08/2020

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