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MG TD TF 1500 - powder coating

I have a brother in Minnesota, who is a car nut, and he does his own powder coating. He started off doing it in the kitchen ,but his wife soon put a stop to that!
It seems that powder coating would be ideal for many parts on our MG's. Gloss black and semi-gloss would be nice for many parts under the hood. We probably couldn't get a good color match for the valve cover and some of the other special colors and we shouldn't
put ignition coils in that hot oven (unless we have a trailer Queen that doesn't have to run)!
If there is any interest, I'll get the details and give it a try on my air cleaner. ???
Chuck
cj schmit

I had the kick board and the drive tunnel powder coated on my TD. While at the coaters I was impressed by the silver color.
I have been thinking of getting the aluminum strips that carry the rubbers on the running boards coated.
The ones I took off were pretty corroded after only 62 years.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

I used to powder coat a lot of parts, but my issue with it is that you can't touch it up easily, and when it gets old and cracks you have to sand blast it off. Regular paint can be touched up or re-sprayed at any time. On parts that need durability I use POR15, which is more durable than anything including powder coat, can be touched up, and can be painted over. In addition, it stops rust from migrating underneath the coated surface, which neither paint nor powder coat can do. The downside is that it's more work to apply, but in my opinion the results are worth it.
Steve Simmons

Powder coating was all the rage in in Calif 30 years ago for the chassis of cars. Not so much anymore. It also suffers from brake fluid and paint solvents like lacquer thinner and acetone so its not as impervious as one would think.

I also has a heavier body and appearance than paint. Maybe that's why it was used mostly on frames of muscle cars etc.

Steve: Have you tried the POR MG Maroon engine paint?
Christopher Couper

I've been using powder coating for a number of things for almost 20 years. Contrary to Steve I have found it most useful in a number of applications..particularly where corrosion is an issue. Things such as Brake and heater boxes on my MGB and a number of other items on all three of my MG's. Powder coating is just like anything else. There are a multitude of products of varying quality and the process itself will be the final key for best results. Depending on whether the metal was acid washed or blasted and the choice of media will all have an effect on the final product. I've learned there are some things that it's not suitable..such as wire wheels...the hard way. Just my two cents but I will continue to have pieces coated when I think it is suitable.
MG LaVerne

The heavier appearance LaVerne mentions reminded me of another difference between powder coat and POR15. Since powder coat is physically thicker, it smooths the surface more than POR, which goes on very thin.

Christopher, a friend of mine painted his engine with the POR15 Engine Maroon. The color wasn't bad but I felt that it had too much brown in it. I can send you a photo if that helps. Also, it went on much thicker than the POR that I've personally used. I assume there is a difference between engine POR and standard POR. His engine block had a very smooth appearance to it instead of the normal cast iron look.
Steve Simmons

Steve: I am always worried about heat retention on heavy body paints on the engine. That's why I have used the Moss engine paint. It does not look to great and has to be touched up often, but I think it dissipates the heat much better.
Christopher Couper

The Moss paint is a great color, but expensive and extremely sensitive to most automotive fluids. It really needs to be clear coated. If you can find it, Duplicolor Dark Canyon Red is an almost perfect match and is very durable, even without clear coat. I've painted several engines with it.

I share the same fear about heat retention but so far my friend's engine runs cool. Sure looks thick though.
Steve S

Have not used it on the TD, but my MGB has a number of powder coated items including the radiator bracket, air cleaners, brake cover, defroster vents and dash. Last two were wrinkle coated and look unbelievably close to the original.

I could see doing the valve cover, tappet cover, horns and the oil blow by tube in powder coat on the TD. My powder coater has over 100 colors and I am pretty sure I could find a silver and a maroon that would come close to factory color.

Have not tried it for things like brake drums, but could not see why it would not be a nice look.
Bruce Cunha

Powder coating is not easily removed with sandblasting according to my sandblaster friend. It takes much longer to remove.
However I have used powder coating for years on suspension parts but I must try POR 15 one day.
Ian Buckley

Duplicolor Dark Canyon Red is what I used on my engine. PJ



Paul S Jennings

I had my wheels powdercoated dull silver and I think it's a great solution at least for wheels, as it retains the original color pretty well but is very durable. I would consider powdercoat for some parts (air cleaner, exhaust manifold (high temp stuff) etc, but can see many areas where I think regular paint would be more appropriate.
Geoffrey M Baker

I am a big fan of POR paint, but it don't think their engine maroon is the right shade. I bought a can and found it to be too pink. I gave it to a friend of mine, and he used it on his TC. I used a PPG concept single stage paint. Judge for yourself. Here is the POR paint:

D. Sander

The PPG concept paint:

D. Sander

Sand blasting is one way to remove powder coating, but as Ian said it is a long process. The powder coater I have used has a solution which, he says, quickly removes powder coating. Aircraft Paint Remover by Klean-Strip, which can be found at autoparts stores in the US, also works well. it comes in spray cans and larger containers as well......cleans up with water, too.

Bill
Bill Reid

It was recommended to me NOT to use POR15, or powder coat process on brake drums. Although it would "look" good... I was told it inhibits the heat transfer and cooling of the drums during braking , leading to premature brake fade, and possible over-heating of brake parts.

Maybe someone can confirm this , or is it just an urban legend.
C.R. Tyrell

This thread was discussed between 17/01/2014 and 19/01/2014

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