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MG TD TF 1500 - Quarter Panel 'Too Flat'

I screwed up. As a result, the front of the right front quarter panel on my TF has almost no curve. Can you help me correct the problem?

I straightened the front nailing lip on the front of the quarter panel by holding a flat steel plate behind the lip and pounding on the front of the lip with a hammer. I guess that stretched the metal in the lip and forced the side of the panel to be flatter than the left quarter panel. It's almost totally flat.

So, how can I curve the panel?

My thought is to saw a kerf in a piece of angle iron (at the black line in the photo.) Slip the lip into the kerf. Then rotate the angle iron up and down to create a series of shallow ruffles in the lip. Seems like this would pull the side of the QP into a curve to match the left quarter panel. It doesn't need much. I have no experience in body work, so I don't know it this will be good or bad, or what collateral damage would be done.

Thanks for your advice.

Lonnie
TF7211


LM Cook

I also have no experience with body work but I think I've seen experienced people form that curve with an "english wheel." perhaps a body shop near you has one. Jud
J K Chapin

Jud and Lonnie, an English wheel can be used, but better to use a spredder / shrinker. Same simple machine with teeth that are just turned around to eitehr stretch or shrink metal to form curved metal strips.
cheers & stay safe, especially our colleagues in the US.
Stuart
Stuart Duncan

Lonnie. Remember thes panels started off flat. I use multiple plastic footed C clamps I picked up from Harbor Freight. I place the clamps in line with the nail holes. The flange will or should deform as the nails are sunk. If needed simply pry lightly between the flange and timber with a heavy nail to get the relief started. It won’t take much

Bill Chasser
TD-4834
W A Chasser

Thanks guys,

I'm gonna have to create the curve at home. The nailing lip is only about 1/2" to 3/4" wide, but it is at right angles to the outside of the panel, so it is very strong at the bend.

Bill - Thanks. I'll clamp it to the curved side rail with a bunch of HF clamps to see it is pulled into the proper shape. If not, then I may try to "ruffle" the lip in a couple of places to test the result.

Lonnie
TF7211



LM Cook

This is what I did. It may give you some ideas.
I clamped first. As I remember, next forcing the skin into the door latch , post with custom forms, top and bottom, then Folding the lip, then the top of the rails folded over. All nailing as I progressed. Note the wood is HARD. I predrilled nail holes with an undersized drill bit before hammering
Then bottom of rails then front.
My panels were painted so I used a soft plastic hammer.

Jim B








JA Benjamin

Hi Lonnie, I think your idea of using a slot in a piece of angle iron will work. I did a similar thing years ago to get the curve on the front quarter panel under the door. What you propose is really a shrinking process along the flange. Do a bit at a time, I think you will be suprised at how little it takes .
Cheers, Hugh Pite
H.D. Pite

You guys are all so talented. Super impressed.
Christopher Couper

Thanks again everyone.

Hugh: Thanks for your vote of confidence. I agree that it won't take much bending to shrink the nailing lip and accomplish my goal. Need to bow the panel by about a half-inch over 24-inch space. I'll use the front inner side rail plus my left front quarter panel as a guide to show me where to bend. I'll "do a bit at a time."

I only need to add curvature at the front where I stretched the nailing lip. The panel is bowed correctly at the latch pillar.

Lonnie
TF7211

LM Cook

This thread was discussed between 12/04/2020 and 13/04/2020

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