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MG TD TF 1500 - Rack and pinion replacement

Tried to search but no luck so here are my questions.

1. My ball joints are shot. No replacements available. I would like your comments on the Moss replacement rack. Any experiences with this item.

2. Manual say you can slip the rack out from the bottom. Anyone do this? Trying to avoid taking radiator, etc. out.

Thanks

Joe

JWP Policastro

I have the replacement rack mounted on one car , seems to work fine a bit stiff but that's all.

Gerard
Gerard Hengeveld

TD or TF, Joe? Bud
Bud Krueger

Have a decent used rack if you need it, Joe. Dan
Dan Craig

I believe anyone who has ever attempted to remove the rack without removing the radiator has indicated that the drawing in the manual showing the procedure was pure fantasy.
MG LaVerne

A local MG shop replaced the rack and pinion in my '55 TF with a Moss R&P the week after I bought the car. They didn't remove the radiator, but they did a lot of hammering and banging. I later learned that the shop did not own a WSM.

The Moss R&P does not require to be filled with oil. There is an aluminum cap that I believe is used to adjust the lash(?). All I know about it is that the threads can be easily stripped.

The steering on my TF is now better than with the old R&P, but I don't know if it is as good as an original R&P.

Not much info, but all that I know.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Thanks guys. I replaced all the rubber in the steering and front end and the bushings and used new bolts, etc. This made a HUGE difference.

The one side of the steering ball joint could use to be done but it is acceptable. A little loose on the right ball joint but not too bad.

By the way the new tie rod ends are like the rack. They too require no lubrication for life. All squeaks and free play is gone from the steering.

Funny how you get so use to doing things the old way -- Clasic British all need grease and lube, it is hard to change but I do not even think twice when I drive my modern roadsters and they do not use grease or oil, etc. in the front end or steering. Old habits die hard.

Bud it is a TD.

Thanks Dan. I am going to mull this one over in my mind -- new vs. old. I am not a concours guy so durability is always a major issue with me. I like fixing things but hate to do a job twice so I am leaning towards new unless the feedback tells me otherwise.

Lonnie I printed off the install instructions and it says it is pre-set at the factory i.e. Leave it along. I am no expert either so a R & R sounds good to me.

I was thinking that the rack would be a winter project along with a couple of minor things to the Triumphs.

Joe

PS interesting story. right side went great. When I got to the left oh boy. When I took the nut off the spindle it came off and it left all the threads on the male side. No BSF die to fix the threads so I had to order a new nut and use a file to get the new nut to work. Always something with these old cars.

JWP Policastro

The rack knuckle joints are adjustable and if the seatings are unevenly worn they can be lapped in with grinding paste.


Jan T
J Targosz

It would seem to me that a decent machine shop should be able to repair the ball joints if that's all that was really wrong with the steering rack. Heck you could probably have new pins cast and machined since that is where the wear would most likely be.
Chris Couper

This thread was discussed between 31/03/2014 and 01/04/2014

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