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MG TD TF 1500 - Rear Core Plug Access

The last time I pulled the engine out of the TD was to replace the leaking Core plugs. I did all of the plugs on the right side of the engine and foolishly did not replace the one's in the rear.
I now have a minor leak from the rear of the engine. I do not believe that it is from the rear seal. I think it is from one or both of the core plugs in the rear.
My question has to do with accessibility.
If I was to remove the transmission, driveshaft, tunnel, floorboards and floor board angle irons would I have sufficient access to swing a hammer for a solid replacement of the core plugs? This will be done with the car on the lift.
This of course would be an alternate removing the engine.
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Mort
Mort Resnicoff

Mort - You can easily determine whether the leak is from the rear coolant core plug in the back of the block, or the camshaft core plug, by the nature of the fluid leaking. If oil, it is the cam plug, and the engine must come out. If the rear seal, well, it also must come out.

One of my customers recently replaced the core plug at the rear of the block by removing the toe-board. He then had enough room to install it securely, and felt it was awkward, but MUCH easier than removing the engine. I urged him to write something up, and hope he does.

Let me know if you need another core plug, as I have some singletons.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

The toe board in my 53 TD had a hole drilled where the core plug is located. I have no idea if it worked for replacing the rear core plug or not. I closed it with a rubber plug.

Tim
Timothy Burchfield

I drilled the hole in the 70s to change rear plug. Welded it up at restoration. Toe board removal would require a lot of work, but less than engine out.
George Butz III

Another method to change the rear plug:
1. Remove the sheet metal cover and carpet that covers the transmission.
2. Support the tranny with a floor jack under the tranny drain plug.
3. Remove the rear tranny mount completely.
4. Lower the jack until the tranny tail housing rests on the tubular cross member. You will now have lowered the back of the engine enough to get a straight shot at the rear core plug through the uncovered bell housing area.
This little task was the inspiration for the brass core plugs that Tom Lange now sells. Please don’t use steel core plugs! Unless of course you enjoy these sort of heroic measures to replace them.

Cheers, Terry
A Peddicord

Terry,, That is a GREAT idea!!!!!
SPW Wincze

Been there, done that.

My cars toeboard had been "modified" at one time with a pair of tin snips to get enough room to pry out and pound in a new rear coolant plug. I have since sealed that up.

On the rear camshaft plug I was once with a group of esteemed MGers en route from LA to Michigan. Shortly after leaving LA one of the cars started spraying oil like crazy and discharged about a quart per 100 miles. We got a case just outside of Las Vegas and it made it to Salina, UT where the transmission was pulled in a dirt lot and the freeze plug was replaced in situ. Not an easy task.

Somewhere I have a picture of this event and sort of remember a rock that was used to hold up the engine under the sump.
Christopher Couper

This thread was discussed between 10/03/2020 and 14/03/2020

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